For those who consider a journey around the icelandic Ring Road rather dull, how about an exiting drive inland? This type of pleasure seems perfect for those who love endless and empty places. Why fly to Mars or to the Moon, when a similar atmosphere can be found right here in Iceland? During this vacation of the year I still managed to stand on what indeed felt like another planet a couple of times.
When traveling to the interior of Iceland, the right car is essential. My old Honda is not a proper off-road vehicle, but it comes with AWD, which is the bare minimum one can have in such a terrain. Although I didn’t dare to cross any of the rivers, I was just fine with everything else.
Somewhere between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers.
One of the main objectives of my trip was the Hveradalir geothermal area located in the Kerlingarfjöll mountains. The road to get there was incredibly challenging; I felt like my car was on the verge of falling apart! However, the effort was worth it, as both the journey and the destination were absolutely breathtaking. Before reaching my goal, I paused by the charming Gýgjarfoss waterfall to take a break from all the jolting. Upon arrival, I was greeted by the distinctive smell of sulfur - just one of the many charms of this island!
The last leg of the road to the parking area proved to be even more difficult, if that was possible. Along the way, I encountered tourists with a flat tire - something that happened quite a bit during my vacation. Fortunately, I managed to reach my destination and soon began my hike.
Welcome to Mars
These days, we are bombarded with visual content from every corner of the Earth. Tempted by these images, we travel to these places only to sometimes face disappointments. In the case of Kerlingarfjöll, it’s quite the opposite - no amount of photos can truly capture the uniqueness of this location.
The bright colors, steaming mud pits, and boiling springs bring about a surrealistic atmosphere. The sight of the hot yellow soil lying at the feet of the snow-capped mountain is simply out of this world.
The name ‘Kerlingarfjöll’ translates to ‘Old Woman’s Mountains’. According to legend, a 25-meter-high rock pillar located in the mountains is a troll woman who was turned into stone by the sun.
Kerlingarfjöll is situated within a zone of volcanic and tectonic activity, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly drifting apart. The landscape is further shaped by glacial erosion from the nearby glaciers. All of this allows you to witness firsthand the conditions under which our planet was formed.
Hiking through dense, sulfurous fumes offers a surreal experience that blurs the boundaries between reality and dream. The sense of surrealism is broken only by the small, bustling figures of fellow hikers, reminding you that you are not on an alien planet.
Around Hveradalir, you'll find numerous trails ranging from 2 to 10 kilometers in length. They aren’t extremely challenging, but it's good to have your knees in good condition. Let’s not forget about proper footwear, as the ground can be very slippery and there aren’t many solid footholds. I can’t imagine hiking in the rain unless you’re using crampons!
It’s crucial to remember that stunning places like this can also pose serious dangers. But... While remaining in awe, it’s easy to forget about it.
Anyway, I completed my hike safe, ready to conquer another unknown planet. My Honda wasn't too thrilled about it, but fortunately, it didn’t resist ;)
