There are certain places, and within them certain streets, that still preserve the style, the life, the windows, the doors, the entire architectural ensemble of many years ago, and when you walk through those streets, you feel as if you are experiencing life as it was many years ago.
Of course, there are always modern details, restorations and renovations, especially in the lower part, the business district, where everything has changed, but in certain areas, history is still preserved, and it is very ancient history.
An example of this is Carretería Street, which I walked down very recently, although I already knew it. But this time, my goal was to really find out what secrets and interesting history this little piece of the city holds.
This history goes back a long way, and one of the things that proves it, as you will see later, is a plaque that tells us about the existence of the old Muslim wall there.
Its name comes from the passage of carts through the area, and it is the street where the city centre or historic quarter ends. In fact, numerous streets cross it, and if we go from south to north and take some of those little streets on the right, we will enter the historic centre.
It used to be a place where carts passed through and gathered because they came from outside the city. Today, it is located on what was once the moat of the great old Muslim wall, of which few remains are left, just a reminder.
But I'll tell you that I started walking along the street from south to north and from west to east, as the street forms a semicircle and is not straight. It begins at the intersection with Puerta Nueva Street and ends at the intersection with Puerta Buenaventura Street. In the direction I took, I had the Guadalmedina River on my left. It was a very interesting walk.
A large staircase descends from Avenida de la Rosaleda, called Tribuna de los pobres, and as I descend, I begin my tour, admiring the old buildings, from the doors to the windows, which, although not all the same, retain their original character.
I am a big fan of this style, especially the old wooden doors and large windows, which had no bars, and also the designs of the old balconies, full of flowers, pots and lots of colour.
I'm not sure if this mural I found is complete or not, but I think the artist wanted it that way and it shows part of the city centre, right where the bullring is located.
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I walked slowly through the streets, noticing that in the lower part of town there were many shops, many Chinese bazaars, but also some selling traditional dresses. The city's famous fair is coming up, and these types of dresses will be everywhere. And why not a religious art shop? There are many in the city.
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There is also a furniture shop and streets that subtly intersect this old street. Businesses offering breakfasts, various meals, a modernity among those openings that speak of time, of a time that has passed when carts and carriages arrived in the city and passed through this place. Imagining that transported me and made me feel the footsteps of the horses and the noise on the cobbled streets, perhaps.
Some windows seemed more modern or perhaps had been restored, but in between them I could see very old walls with their windows, where there were old drawings and paintings. I suppose a restoration of that kind must be a lot of work. So much beauty in just a piece of wall, walls that speak of the past.
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Every corner, every new intersection, every nook and cranny offered buildings that were not very tall, usually three or four stories high, all of them, but with different features from one another. Some corners were absolutely wonderful.
In another alley in the distance, I could see a beautiful mural, one inside a plot of land, which I think is a hidden gem because if you don't pass by that exact spot, no one sees it.
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To my left, the buildings were in the shade, and to my right, they were bathed in sunlight, offering different shades depending on the window panes and the colour of the walls.
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I arrived at what I believe to be the most emblematic point of this tour, one of which there are almost no traces left, but there is a large plaque behind some bars that protect the place. This place is a reminder of the great ancient Muslim wall that surrounded much of the city and had a moat next to it, which is where Carretería Street was later established.
It is called the medieval wall, a defensive construction built under Almohad rule during the second half of the 12th century. According to the plaque, this is the best-preserved part of the façade integrated into the rear façades of the nearby houses.
Construction began in the 11th century. It was very thick and had towers where soldiers on guard duty slept. It was built using rammed earth, a mixture of mud and mortar that was poured and compacted between wooden planks. It remained as it was originally until the 18th century, after which interest in its conservation was lost. However, attempts are currently being made to recover several fragments of it in other parts of the city.
The loss of conservation was due to the growth of the city and the fact that the wall served as a support for many buildings, causing the accompanying moat to disappear. On the map below, we can see the route of this iconic wall.
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After seeing this marvel, my tour continued among more buildings and windows, where in many cases antiquity is mixed with modernity. I love the balconies with flowers, they give a very particular style and joy to this street.
Towards the end of the tour, I came across one of the oldest houses I saw on my way, or perhaps the least restored. Nearby, there is a small square and restaurants. At this point, as we reach the end of this beautiful street steeped in history, we find ourselves deep in the historic centre of the city.
I love doing these kinds of tours because I learn a lot about the history of the place and what it was like in the past. If you are interested in additional information, you can find it here.
Thank you very much for joining me today. Best regards. See you soon.
Amonet.
All photographs are my own.
Separators created by me in Photoshop.
Used translator Deepl.com free version.
//:# (!worldmappin 36.721638 lat -4.425030 long 12th-century wall in the middle of an iconic street 📷 Malaga – Spain d3scr)
