My tours of the city often take me to investigate and explore museums, where the art exhibitions are varied and, every so often, spectacular and surprising art is on display. That's what happened to me with this exhibition called The Manila Shawl.
When I saw the poster advertising this exhibition on the façade of the customs palace, I never imagined that what I would see inside would be so beautiful and fantastic. As soon as I entered, I was left with my mouth open and my eyes wide. I have seen many art exhibitions, but this was on another level, with professionalism and quality in a type of art that is not often seen.
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This is an exhibition not only of pieces of the highest craftsmanship, but also with a great history behind them. Best of all, in addition to the detailed explanations that could be found next to the works of art, there was a person there who not only represented security, making sure that no one touched anything, but also knew a lot about it. There were many visitors, not only foreigners and tourists, but also locals who came to this large hall.
Manila shawls represent and have long represented feminine accessories and complements of great beauty and style, in addition to the history they carry and the tradition they form, thus becoming a symbol of a place. For me, they are original art, a way of combining that art with everyday life.
Although they have become a symbol in Spain, they originated in China and, with trade along the famous Silk Road, they arrived in this country and were adapted to the most characteristic customs, styles and symbols. In the case of Spain, the motifs resonate with flowers. Shawls were also adopted in other countries, and each of them has given them their own stamp of customs and history.
They became very popular in Europe in the 19th century, and over time factories were set up to produce them, where the first embroiderers were men. It was a time when women did not work, but later this task passed definitively to women, who created works of art of unparalleled beauty.
The delicacy, finesse and detail of Chinese shawls became so famous that they spread throughout the world thanks to trade, but it was Spain that brought them to America on its ships.
The exhibition features the Perraut collection, which has been built up in this city. Each of the pieces of art on display here is unique, original and of great value, of astonishing quality.
The first shawls that arrived were embroidered in very fine, high-quality silk, some with embroidery but leaving the centre free or with small details, and others with only the edges embroidered. The fringes were made from the same fabric, although over time they were also made in macramé.
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In the first part of the room, there was a very well-maintained space organised for viewing original Chinese shawls. The setting was beautiful, and there was a rope barrier to prevent people from entering and damaging the pieces. It was worth seeing every detail of the embroidery, the colours, the workmanship and the style.
The explanations next to the shawls mentioned both the dates of manufacture and the materials, including dyed silk, natural silk and coloured silk. All of them were made between 1840 and 1880.
Opposite this area was another where a painting was on display that is originally located in another part of the museum but was brought especially to this room for the shawls. It is a portrait of Anita Delgado, an artist from Malaga who was loved by a prestigious Arab. They got married, she became a princess, and after a few years they separated. Anita gave this Chinese shawl, which she used to perform with, to Encarnación Perraut, which is why it is part of the collection.
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After passing through the area where the Chinese shawls were displayed, I was able to see the variety and beauty of the Hispanic shawls, which began to arrive in those countries in the 17th century. They began to be made in countries such as Mexico and Chile due to Chinese demands regarding payments. The quality was not the same, but they were equally fine and beautiful. Most of the motifs were flowers and bullfighting motifs.
In another area, there was a display of very beautiful shawls with specific details, containing embroidered faces of human figures, Chinese figures, porcelain and ivory, mother-of-pearl and silver, and where the threads on the coloured silk were made of gold. There were also shawls embellished with precious stones. It was truly incredible to see, so much beauty, quality and fineness of workmanship. Pieces of the highest luxury.
In another area of the large room, which was divided by different walls, creating unique spaces, there was a large frame and mirrors with inscriptions that read:
"...only the people preserve it with admirable instinct. They take it out of the coffers in the great moments of life, as one gives a hymn of joy to the wind..."
-Benito Pérez Galdós, Fortunata y Jacinta.
And behind the frame, the same author wrote:
"Wrapping yourself in it is like dressing in a painting."
In another section, there was a sofa with a mannequin wearing a wonderful shawl, which referred to the evolution of the Chinese shawl and its adaptation to Spain, especially used in special events such as weddings, fairs, and others.
Gold threads were present in Spanish shawls, and their beauty was extreme.
Flowers, birds, butterflies, various colours and motifs, all very delicate and feminine.
A final section of the room was specially arranged to take advantage of the view of the Spanish shawls and how this Chinese art was transformed and adapted to Spanish society by its embroiderers.
As I mentioned, flowers were the most characteristic feature of the designs, with roses and carnations giving the country its own personality. Spain adopted the shawl as its own. In addition to the floral theme, macramé and special traditional knots were used.
Flamenco women were the ones who spread this tradition and made it so popular, with the shawl accompanying their colourful, ruffled dresses. There I saw shawls from different parts of Spain, and my favourite was the one embroidered with silver.
In various parts of the room, the decoration was accompanied by paintings referring to the theme.
It was a unique, spectacular, original exhibition, full of quality, luxury and art.
Thank you very much for joining me today. Best regards. See you soon.
Amonet.
All photographs are my own.
Separators created by me in Photoshop.
Used translator Deepl.com free version.
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