We woke up in Kirkman's Camp, a historic luxury safari lodge in the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve in South Africa. Originally built in the 1920's, it is located high on a bluff, overlooking the Sand River. I ventured out to my veranda, listened to the birds, peered down at the river, and felt the excitement grow as I got dressed for the morning game drive. Who knows what we might see down there.
After meeting our guide, Willy, for a morning cappuccino, Greg, Sue, and I loaded up our safari vehicle. There was a special seat on the front of the hood for our tracker, Richard. Like our other safari vehicles, this was the class green, extended Land Cruiser. However, this one not only had no doors, but it also had no roof. We really felt like we were in the elements, and it made the close encounters with wildlife seem even more intimate.
Our morning game drive was mind blowing. We started by finding lion tracks on the road. After following them for some time, a male lion appeared ahead, sauntering down the road. He would stop every few minutes to leave his scent on a bush, then continue on. Willy explained that since it rained last night, all of his scent markings had been washed away. He had to remark his territory to let other lions know where he ruled. Several times he let out a deep, guttural roar, reaching out to his brothers. We did hear a response a few times from far off in the distance. Another safari vehicle came and joined us after we had turned into the bush and offroaded a bit. There was one scene, where our lion walked right in front of the other vehicle, turned at looked right at them, that I photographed below. It was powerful.
So, we were off to a good start, and we were just getting the day started. We then went on to find a leopard down in the Sand River. It was a beautiful scene with our lodge in the background. The leopard stayed comfortable and didn't change its behavior, even though we were only 15 feet away. It eventually curled up in the tall reeds for a nap after a long night of hunting. We stayed with the leopard for over ten minutes, as it looked for a place to nap. Those of you who have seen leopards on safaris before know how fleeting the usual leopard encounter can be.
We were all feeling pretty good about our morning safari, when the ultimate surprise came. At an intersection, our tracker Richard found dog prints. He wasn't sure if they were hyena or wild dog, but he wanted to explore deeper in the bush on foot. He jumped off and walked the road forward, while we turned and drove the road forking to the left. He had a radio and would cut through and meet us somewhere. After driving for a bit, our guide Willy spotted a lone hyena. I thought the hyena was looking in a certain direction, so I grabbed my binoculars and scanned that way.
There it was. The flick of a white tail, and the top of a round ear. It was just on the edge of my vision, maybe 400 yards away, and just over a hill. I called it out that I thought there were dogs ahead, and off we went. I think our guide was a bit skeptical, and the farther we drove the more worried I was that I had been mistaken. We drove to the edge of the forest, then to the tall tree that I was using as a place marker. Still no dogs. Then, another fifty yards or so, we found them! It was a different family than the one we encountered last night. There were five of them, resting, while slowly keeping an eye and ear on things. After driving fast just to keep up with them last night, it was such a pleasure seeing them relaxed and in one place.
After a while a few other vehicles from our camp came to join us for this special sighting. One car had only an excited guide in it, who jetted here from camp just to see the dogs. That showed us how rare and fleeting these dog sightings can be.
We were all ready for breakfast after our wild dog encounter, so imagine our surprise when Willy drove right past the camp. He had one more secret up his sleeve. We drove to a bend in the river to find the Kirkman's team had set up a private bush breakfast for us. We sipped our mimosas as we watched elephants playing in the river behind us.
That was all just in the morning. Then there were marguritas by the pool, an amazing lunch back at camp, and before we knew it, it was 4pm and time to meet for afternoon tea and head out on our afternoon game drive. This one turned out to be one for the books as well. We were able to share in my best leopard encounter to date.
First we found a impala, hanging from a branch in a tall tree. It had been killed and carried up the tree by a leopard. Then, scanning the area, I saw the leopard down in the Sand River. We followed it very carefully and quietly, because it had seen a bushbuck in the reeds. We watched it stealthily get closer and closer, but alas, the bushbuck saw it, barked loudly like a dog, and ran for safety. But it didn't end there.
The leopard crossed over the river, obviously not liking the water very much. It would try and shake off the water from its paws as she lifted them out. On the other side of the river, she started calling out.... to her cub! She had a baby, hidden, somewhere on the other side of the river. Then Willy and Richard said, 'lets drive down, then cross the river, and see if we can find her.' To which we all said, 'yes!'
And find her we did! When we pulled near, we could see a tiny baby leopard. We looped around to get a closer look. The baby was so small, and still a bit shy around our vehicle. I managed to get the photo of the day, above, with the young cub looking at me with its blue eyes. After all these years, and all these safaris, having an encounter like this, reaffirms that there is no place like Africa. 20 years of safaris and I am still getting blown away.
We finished the day with a big outdoor bbq dinner, where grilled warthog was the surprise winner of the delicious meats selection. This will be a day, and a place to remember.
As always, keep traveling and keep posting!
- Dai Mar