From my Havana apartment, two landmarks are clearly visible: a hill (oh, miracle!) and a church. The hill is Loma del Chaple, and the church is Jesús del Monte. I went there to explore the area… and what a surprise I got. So today, I'll tell you about the curiosities of the very old church of Jesús del Monte, the site of some very famous events in our history.
The Road and the Town
It's now part of the city of Havana, and can even be considered quite central, given the city's expanse; but as they say, all this was once wilderness, countryside. First, a road appeared, the Camino Real del Sur, which became the main access route to the city. Hence this marble plaque, almost hidden and unknown, indicating that what is now Old Havana lies exactly one league away.
At the foot of the Camino Real, a sugar mill called San Francisco de Paula was built. By the mid-17th century, the settlement around these economic sources had become a town. As early as 1689, there is record of a humble hermitage made of simple materials, and around 1695, construction began on a more serious church. In 1698, it became the first auxiliary church of the Parroquial Mayor of Havana in extramuros, meaning outside the city walls, which I discussed in a previous post.
Uprising, Invasion, Tornado
From the early 1700s, some tobacco growers settled in the area and began to plant and harvest tobacco on the banks of two streams that no longer exist. In 1723, the so-called Uprising of the Tobacco Growers occurred, a dark chapter in our history. It all happened because of policies established by the Spanish metropolis to monopolize the tobacco trade. The monopoly was highly unpopular among Cubans and sparked several revolts. In the end, some 800 Havana tobacco growers decided to rebel and destroy the estates, fields, and farms of the monopoly holders, before heading, armed, into the walled city.
The Spanish government responded forcefully. It only took 200 infantry and cavalry soldiers to stop the rebellion. Nine tobacco growers died, twelve were executed by firing squad the next day, and their bodies were publicly hung as an example. The chosen location was the most visible point on the Camino Real, that is… this church. It is considered the first uprising against the colonial government on the island.
This painted monolith no longer shows the inscription it once bore. Could it perhaps be dedicated to the tobacco growers? Or maybe it's for another Cuban hero from that poorly documented era.
When the English invaded Havana in 1762, Jesús del Monte was an area of much conflict due to its strategic location. The best-known hero of that episode, the famous "Pepe Antonio" (José Antonio Gómez Bullones, mayor of Guanabacoa), was the first to lead a machete charge. A century before the first official charge, carried out by Máximo Gómez.
Pepe Antonio fought the invaders and his name is synonymous with the first Creole to fight for Cuba. There are several versions about his death, one of which, unofficial, suggests it was here in Jesús del Monte, from distress, after the betrayal of the Spaniards who removed him from his post despite all he had fought for.
Perhaps the monolith is dedicated to him, and it was hidden because that version is not the most accepted one right now.
The last historical fact about this church is recent. When a tornado passed through Havana in 2019 (an extremely rare event), it practically passed right through this place, causing damage. People in the neighborhood tell me it took the tip of the tower and it was never seen again. I don't know if this is true or part of the local legend of this place.
From here you can see the Capitol, the K Tower in Vedado, the bay. Practically the whole city. The sunset is a spectacle. I never thought I'd find such an ancient place so full of history, far from Old Havana. I'll keep exploring the neighborhood… who knows what else I can show you.
Desde mi apartamento habanero, se ven claramente dos formaciones: una loma (oh, milagro) y una iglesia. La loma es la del Chaple, y la iglesia es Jesús del Monte. Fui hasta allá a reconocer la zona… y vaya sorpresas que me llevé. Así que hoy les contaré las curiosidades de la viejísima iglesia de Jesús del Monte, sede de algunos acontecimientos muy famosos de nuestra Historia.
La calzada y el poblado
Ahora es parte de la ciudad de La Habana, e incluso puede considerarse bastante céntrico, dado la extensión de la misma; pero como dicen por ahí, antes todo esto era monte, campo. Primero surgió un camino, el Camino Real del Sur, que devino principal vía de acceso a la ciudad. De ahí, esta tarja de mármol, casi oculta y desconocida, indicando que a una legua exacta queda lo que ahora es la Habana Vieja.
Sublevación, invasión, tornado
Desde principios de 1700, se instalaron en la zona unos vegueros que comenzaron a plantar y cosechar tabaco, en los márgenes de dos arroyos ahora inexistentes. En 1723 ocurrió la llamada Sublevación de los Vegueros, un capítulo oscuro en nuestra Historia. Todo sucedió por culpa del estanco del tabaco, unas políticas instauradas por la metrópoli española con tal de monopolizar el comercio tabacalero. El estanco fue muy mal visto por los cubanos, y provocó varias revueltas. Al final, unos 800 vegueros habaneros decidieron sublevarse y destruir las estancias, vegas y fincas de los estanqueros, para luego dirigirse, armados, a intramuros.
El gobierno español respondió de forma contundente. Bastaron 200 soldados de infantería y caballería para detener la rebelión. Nueve vegueros murieron, doce fueron fusilados al día siguiente, sus cuerpos colgados en público para servir de ejemplo. El lugar elegido fue el punto más visible del Camino Real, o sea… esta iglesia. Se le considera la primera sublevación en contra del gobierno colonial en la isla.
Este monolito pintado no deja ver la inscripción que llevaba. ¿Será acaso dedicado a los vegueros? O quizá se trate de otro héroe cubano de esa época poco documentada.
Tal vez el monolito está dedicado a él, y se ocultó pues ahora mismo esa versión no es la más aceptada.
El último dato histórico sobre esta iglesia es reciente. Cuando un tornado pasó por La Habana, en 2019 (evento rarísimo), prácticamente atravesó este lugar, provocando daños. Me dicen en el barrio que se llevó la punta de la torre y no la vieron más. No sé si esto sea cierto o es arte de la leyenda de este sitio.
Desde acá se puede ver el Capitolio, la Torre K del Vedado, la bahía. Prácticamente toda la ciudad. El atardecer es un espectáculo. Nunca pensé encontrarme un lugar tan antiguo y lleno de Historia, lejos de La Habana Vieja. Seguiré explorando el barrio… a saber qué más les puedo mostrar.