Este archipiélago en medio del Océano Pacífico, a unos 1000 km de la costa de Ecuador, es mucho más que un destino turístico; es un museo viviente de la evolución y un testimonio fascinante del poder de nuestro planeta. Les cuento un poco de esta maravilla.
Se trata de un archipiélago de islas volcánicas, tuve la suerte de visitar cuatro de ellas. Entré por San Cristobal, digamos que es la capital administrativa de las islas, luego fuimos a Santa Cruz, le sigue la pequeña isla de Floreana y finalmente fuimos a Isabella, la más grande de todas.
Al ser un viaje tan largo y al haber tanto por explicar he decidido hacer una publicación por isla, de esta forma puedo transmitirles todo lo allí aprendido.
Sin más, allá vamos.
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Hello everyone! Last April I had the incredible fortune to fulfill a dream: to visit the Galapagos Islands. This was possible thanks to the German-Cuban collaboration and the network of researchers to which I belong.
This archipelago in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, about 1,000 km off the coast of Ecuador, is much more than a tourist destination; it's a living museum of evolution and a fascinating testament to the power of our planet. Let me tell you a little about this wonder.
It's an archipelago of volcanic islands, and I was lucky enough to visit four of them. I entered through San Cristobal, the administrative capital of the islands. Then we went to Santa Cruz, followed by the small island of Floreana, and finally, we went to Isabella, the largest of all.
Since it was such a long trip and there was so much to explain, I decided to write one post per island, this way I can share everything I learned there.
Without further ado, here we go.
[En el centro de crianza, Charles Darwin junto a una de las tortugas gigantes de Galápagos/At the breeding center, Charles Darwin next to one of the giant Galapagos tortoises.]
Hace millones de años: Ese punto caliente empezó a escupir lava bajo el mar. Con el tiempo, tanta lava se acumuló que rompió la superficie del océano, formando la primera isla volcánica.
La "Cinta Transportadora" en Acción: La placa tectónica (llamada placa de Nazca) no se detuvo. Siguió moviéndose hacia el este. El punto caliente se quedó fijo, pero ahora estaba debajo de un nuevo punto del fondo marino... ¡y empezó a formar otra isla! Y luego otra, y otra.
El Resultado: Una cadena de islas, como perlas en un collar. Las islas más al este (como San Cristóbal) son las más antiguas (unos pocos millones de años). Las islas más al oeste (como Fernandina e Isabela) son las más jóvenes, ¡y todavía están activas! De hecho, vimos fumarolas en la distancia y paisajes de lava negra reciente que parecían de otro planeta. Es literalmente ver la creación de tierra nueva.
Este aislamiento y juventud son la clave de la magia de Galápagos. La vida llegó aquí nadando, volando o flotando desde lejos. Las especies que lograron establecerse evolucionaron de formas únicas para adaptarse a estas islas volcánicas. ¡Y vaya que lo hicieron! Aquí no tienen miedo de los humanos (gracias a estrictas normas de conservación), así que la experiencia es íntima y asombrosa.
Abril fue perfecto. El clima ecuatorial es estable, con días soleados y calurosos, pero el mar estaba generalmente tranquilo (¡importante para los viajes en barco entre islas!). El agua es cálida y cristalina, ideal para el snorkel. Además, fue temporada de cría de muchas aves y lobos marinos, así que vimos muchos polluelos y crías, lo que añadió una dosis extra de ternura al viaje. Las lluvias intensas ya habían pasado, dejando las tierras altas verdes y frescas.
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The first thing that's impressive is understanding where these islands came from. Forget ancient continents: The Galapagos are babies! Geologically speaking, they're very young. Imagine a hot spot under the ocean floor, like a giant, permanent torch. Above this spot, the Earth's crust (one of its plates) moves slowly, like a conveyor belt.
Millions of years ago: That hot spot began spewing lava under the sea. Over time, so much lava accumulated that it broke the ocean surface, forming the first volcanic island.
The "Conveyor Belt" in Action: The tectonic plate (called the Nazca Plate) didn't stop. It kept moving eastward. The hot spot remained stationary, but now it was beneath a new point on the seafloor... and it began to form another island! And then another, and another.
The Result: A chain of islands, like pearls on a necklace. The easternmost islands (like San Cristóbal) are the oldest (a few million years old). The westernmost islands (like Fernandina and Isabela) are the youngest, and are still active! In fact, we saw fumaroles in the distance and landscapes of fresh black lava that looked like they were from another planet. It's literally like seeing the creation of new land.
This isolation and youth are key to the magic of the Galapagos. Life arrived here by swimming, flying, or floating from afar. The species that managed to establish themselves evolved in unique ways to adapt to these volcanic islands. And boy did they! They aren't afraid of humans here (thanks to strict conservation regulations), so the experience is intimate and amazing.
April was perfect. The equatorial climate is stable, with sunny, hot days, but the sea was generally calm (important for boat trips between islands!). The water is warm and crystal-clear, ideal for snorkeling. Plus, it was breeding season for many birds and sea lions, so we saw lots of chicks and pups, which added an extra dose of warmth to the trip. The heavy rains had passed, leaving the highlands green and fresh.
Flora de Contrastes,zona costera árida: Dominada por cactus candelabro y arbustos espinosos.
Subiendo hacia La Soledad o El Junco, la neblina ("garúa") crea un bosque húmedo lleno de musgos, helechos, guayabillos y la emblemática Scalesia pedunculata (¡un árbol de la familia de las margaritas!). El contraste con la costa es mágico.
Experiencias Que No Te Puedes Perder
Snorkel en León Dormido (Kicker Rock): ¡IMPRESCINDIBLE! Esta roca volcánica que parece un león acostado alberga tiburones, rayas, tortugas marinas y bancos de peces tropicales. El agua es profunda y cristalina.
Laguna El Junco: La única laguna de agua dulce en Galápagos, dentro del cráter de un volcán extinto. Ideal para ver aves y sentir la paz de las alturas.
Mirador de Tijeretas: Una caminata corta desde el pueblo lleva a este mirador con vistas espectaculares. Bajo el acantilado, ¡snorkel con tortugas y rayas!
Playas de Ensueño: Playa Mann (en el pueblo) y Puerto Chino (arena blanca y aguas turquesas) son ideales para relajarse junto a leones marinos.
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San Cristóbal isn't "just another island." It's the oldest in the entire archipelago (about 4 million years old). Think of it as the "grandmother" of the Galapagos. While the western islands (like Isabela) still spit out fresh lava, San Cristóbal shows what happens over time:
Its volcanoes are extinct. Erosion has softened their shapes, creating green hills and reddish cliffs.
In places like Punta Pitt (in the northeast), you'll see layers of lava and ash piled up like a geological cake. They're a photo album of past eruptions!
Since the archipelago forms over a hot spot as the tectonic plate shifts, San Cristóbal is the farthest from that hot spot. That's why it's the oldest and most peaceful.
The biodiversity here is astonishing! And the best part: everything is close by. The capital, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, is small and cozy, but in minutes you're surrounded by nature.
Sea lions, everywhere! They sleep on benches along the boardwalk, play on La Lobería beach (which bears their name!), and will be curious if you swim nearby. In April, we saw newborn chicks learning to swim. Pure cuteness!
It's the only place in the Galapagos where you can see ALL THREE SPECIES of boobies together: the famous blue-footed, the elegant red-footed (rare), and the Nazca (black and white). A spectacle of colors and sounds.
There are also frigate birds inflating their red pouches and swallow-tailed gulls.
At the "David Rodríguez" Breeding Center (next to Tijeretas Hill), we learned about efforts to save these giants. We saw baby turtles and majestic adults. Some live over 100 years!
Marine Iguanas & Lava Lizards
Black as coal, sunning themselves on volcanic rocks near Carola Beach. We saw them spit salt after snorkeling. Quite a natural spectacle!
Flora of Contrasts, arid coastal area: Dominated by candelabra cacti and thorny shrubs.
As we climb toward La Soledad or El Junco, the mist ("garúa") creates a humid forest full of mosses, ferns, guayabillos, and the iconic Scalesia pedunculata (a tree in the daisy family!). The contrast with the coast is magical.
Experiences Not to Be Missed
Snorkeling at León Dormido (Kicker Rock): A MUST! This volcanic rock, resembling a lying lion, is home to sharks, rays, sea turtles, and schools of tropical fish. The water is deep and crystal-clear.
Laguna El Junco: The only freshwater lagoon in the Galapagos, inside the crater of an extinct volcano. Ideal for birdwatching and experiencing the peace of the heights.
Tijeretas Lookout: A short walk from town leads to this lookout point with spectacular views. Under the cliff, snorkel with turtles and rays!
Dream Beaches: Playa Mann (in town) and Puerto Chino (white sand and turquoise waters) are ideal for relaxing next to sea lions.
Es una isla que lo tiene todo: vida salvaje accesible, paisajes volcánicos dramáticos, playas paradisíacas y la calidez de su gente. Si van a Galápagos, no se salten a la "abuela". Ella guarda secretos que solo revela a quienes la visitan con respeto y curiosidad. En un próximo post conoceremos de otra de las islas de este fascinante lugar.
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San Cristóbal is not only geologically fascinating; it's also historical. Charles Darwin landed here in 1835. Walking its trails, seeing the finches (his "inspirers"!), and understanding how time shapes islands and species makes you feel part of something great.
It's an island that has it all: accessible wildlife, dramatic volcanic landscapes, idyllic beaches, and the warmth of its people. If you go to the Galapagos, don't miss "Grandma." She holds secrets that she only reveals to those who visit with respect and curiosity. In a future post, we'll learn about another of the islands in this fascinating place.
Todas las fotos fueron tomadas por mi/All photos were taken by me
- I used DeepL translator in its free version, as my native language is Spanish.