The birthplace of the power lunch returned to New York City this week when the legendary Four Seasons re-opened in its glamorous new location. In 2016, the restaurant was ousted from the landmark, Philip Johnson-designed dining rooms it had occupied in the Seagram building since 1959. On Wednesday, managing partners Julian Niccolini and Alex von Bidder welcomed guests to the reborn Four Seasons at 42 East 49th Street, just three blocks from its former home.
The stunning new space, which was designed by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld, cost $30 million to build—including investments of $250,000 to $1 million from some of the restaurant’s regulars. Many of the new design elements evoke Johnson’s iconic décor, from the sunken square gold bar, which is reminiscent of the Pool Room, to the gold fabric shades in the dining room that recall the shimmering metallic curtains in the original restaurant.
Von Bidder and Niccolini also brought in an all-star culinary team, who reinvented the menu while still keeping some classic items such as roast duck and crab cakes. The kitchen is led by 30-year-old Diego Garcia—who worked at Le Bernardin and was the executive chef at Gloria in Hell’s Kitchen—while the new chef de cuisine is even younger: 26-year-old Brandon Lajes, who also came from Le Bernardin. For a sweet finish, they are joined by Bill Yosses, the White House pastry chef from 2007 to 2014. (And, yes, there is still cotton candy for those who still have room.)
The only problem of course is getting a reservation at The Four Seasons. The new restaurant is 19,000 square feet (compared to 30,000 in the old space) and there are just 33 tables, which can seat around 110 people.
Power people, of course.
Big City, Bright Lights: The dining room, designed by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld, features 33 tables with many Modernist elements and tableware reminiscent of the original Four Seasons. The sculptural lighting arrangement was created by artist Michael Anastassiades, who was chosen by Weinfeld.
The Ringmasters: Managing partners Alex von Bidder and Julian Niccolini have been co-owners of The Four Seasons (along with the Bronfman family) since 1995.
Seasons Greeting: A gold-flecked sunken bar (which evokes the original Pool Room designed by Philip Johnson) welcomes diners upon entering the new restaurant. The bar area can accommodate 50 and features a light menu.
Triple Play: Niccolini and von Bidder interviewed dozens of chefs before selecting 30-year-old Diego Garcia, right, (formerly of New York’s Gloria) to be the restaurant’s executive chef. Joining him is 26-year-old chef de cuisine, Brandon Lajes, left, who worked with Garcia at Le Bernardin. And for dessert, they hired Bill Yosses, center, who was the former White House executive pastry chef.
All That Fizz: The window treatments in the bar area feature glass bubbles meant to remind diners of Champagne.
Rich Pours: Just off the bar area, the restaurant features a small portion of its extensive wine collection in a walk-in refrigerator.
Making an Entrance: A quiet limestone corridor that plays sounds of the season—there are birds chirping now—leads away from the bar room. It feels like a fashion runway and when you reach to the end, you enter the dining room.
At the Plate: Some of Diego Garcia’s new menu items include
Splendor in the Glass: Mark Drew, of Milk and Honey fame, developed the cocktail menu for The Four Seasons. It features modern twists on classic drinks, including a Four Seasons Spritz (made with vodka, Champagne, and apricots), a Mezcal Negroni (Yola mezcal, Suze aperitif and bianco vermouth) and an Aviation (Gunpowder gin, crème de violette and fresh lemon juice).
Photographs by Jamel Toppin
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