Hello friends. Today I want to talk about our trip to Thessaloniki, the pearl of Northern Greece. This city breathes history, with excavations, ancient churches and monasteries in every corner. We started our city tour at one of the highest points that usually attracts many tourists: the tower. There are generally a lot of tourists here. This tower like other similar structures, was built to protect the city from enemy sieges and from this area, you can see almost the most beautiful views of the city because it is one of the highest vantage points.
The city walls, known as Kastro meaning castle, were constructed in the late 6th century to protect peaceful citizens from enemy armies attacks. Later Emperor Theodosius reinforced these Byzantine walls and in some places, they reached a height of 10 meters and a thickness of 5 meters. The walls remained standing until the 10th century when significant parts were demolished by the Ottomans. Today, you can walk around this area rich in historical texture and enjoy the panoramic view of the city from the Kastro Tower.
On the eastern side if we delve a little deeper, we understand that Thessaloniki had walls up to four meters high surrounding the city throughout the Middle Ages and until the end of the 19th century. A large part of the walls faced the seafront since most attacks came from that direction. The walls exhibit typical late-period features and the northern part is adjacent to the city acropolis, fortified like a separate castle. Inside, there is also another fortress called Eptapyrgion. In 1988, parts of the walls were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List, recognized for their outstanding Byzantine architecture.
We continued our journey towards Heptapyrgion Castle. Used during the Ottoman period, this castle is located behind the Byzantine walls in the upper city and is named Eptapyrgion in Greek, meaning Seven Towers. As the name suggests, this castle consists of seven towers and served as the main redoubt and residence of the garrison commander of the city acropolis during the Ottoman period. It was used until the end of the 10th century and later converted into a prison. Restoration and archaeological work is still ongoing. The most reliable evidence regarding the castle is an inscription above the entrance. This inscription indicates that it was rebuilt by the first Ottoman governor who conquered the city in 1431. Although the exact time when the castle began to be used as a prison is not precisely known, it is clearly marked on the city map in 1899. Therefore, it can be definitively said that there was a prison here at the beginning of the 20th century.
And magnificent panoramic views of the city open up here. All of Thessaloniki appears as if it is in the palm of your hand. The sea, harbor and other touristically interesting structures can be seen clearly. If you want to watch the city from above, I recommend definitely starting your route from above and slowly descending downwards. I think this way is both more comfortable and much more explanatory.
Then we descended to visit other interesting places. The route generally descends from top to bottom. From the Kastro walls we descend towards the sea and simultaneously proceed along the walls. Here, you can also see the Church of Saint Paul. Unfortunately, I couldn't enter due to its specific working hours. But maybe you'll be luckier. The road you see here runs exactly along the walls and we proceeded down this road. But first, we watched the city's enchanting view. It is possible to see how the churches are skillfully integrated into the modern urban fabric and modern architecture. For example, right at the entrance of the church, you can see a panoramic restaurant.
During the descent you can see that Thessaloniki has quite a steep slope, descending from above towards the sea. This has consequences: for instance, during heavy rain, all the trash gets washed down towards the sea. Moreover, during summer heatwaves at 35 degrees, descending downwards is much more comfortable than climbing up.
In front of us appeared another famous spot of the city the Rotunda. So what do we know about the Rotonda? In AD 306, Roman Emperor Galerius built this low, round brick structure with walls six meters thick as a mausoleum. However, Galerius was not buried in the Rotunda but in present-day Serbia. Later Constantine the Great turned the Rotunda into the city's first Christian church and dedicated it to Saint George. Hence, the Rotunda's second name is the Rotunda of Saint George. After Thessaloniki was conquered by the Ottomans, the church was converted into a mosque and a minaret, which still stands today, was added. Currently, exhibitions are sometimes held here. For instance, a photography exhibition featuring historic photos of the city was recently organized.
We continued descending a bit further from the Rotunda. As I mentioned earlier, the city generally has a structure that descends from top to bottom. Now we are heading towards one of the city's most famous symbols, frequently seen on various souvenirs like postcards or magnets. Yes, this is undoubtedly Kamara or the Arch of Galerius. Known locally as Kamara, this structure’s historical name is the Arch of Galerius. Friends, it is very close to the Rotunda and was built in AD 303 to celebrate Emperor Galerius’ victory over the Persians. Initially, the structure consisted of two parallel walls crowned with a dome-like roof and each wall featured rows of columns connected by arched passageways. The columns were adorned with reliefs depicting battle scenes from Galerius Persian campaign and these have survived to this day.
Also here along Ignatia Street, one of the main streets in the city center, there are numerous archaeological excavation sites. Actually, this is the continuation of the archaeological digs behind. You can clearly see here how the excavation sites intertwine with modern architecture. And this is quite common in Thessaloniki. While walking around the city, even while attending to daily chores, you will quite often come across such excavation areas. Of course, there will also be plenty of cute Greek cats and generally, you have free access to these historical artifacts.
The reason why metro construction has been ongoing for 20 years and only a few stations have opened lies partly in these archaeological excavations underlying almost the entire city. When you start digging for the metro line, inevitably you encounter such excavations. Construction must stop and the excavations must be attended to. However, although the situation is similar in Athens, there is a large metro network encircling the city there. Therefore we have to speculate on how reliable this information is.
Ahead of us, the sea began to appear, but before heading directly to the shoreline, I will tell you about another interesting and historical site in the city. This is the Hagia Sophia Church. Built in the 7th century, Hagia Sophia is one of the oldest and most important Christian churches in the city. It has remained unchanged to this day and currently serves as the episcopal cathedral of Thessaloniki. It is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the Iconoclastic period, the church was decorated with mosaics without depictions of saints. Similar decorations can be seen in the Hagia Irene Church in Istanbul and the Dormition of the Virgin Mary Church in Nicaea. Some mosaic fragments found in the altar arch have survived to this day. In the 8th century, after the triumph of iconoclasm, the church was adorned with a magnificent 7th-century mosaic rising under its dome. The mosaic includes figures of Jesus Ascension, the Virgin Mary, two angels and the twelve apostles. A deeper historical examination reveals that this church was built on the site of a 2nd-century temple and features a cross-domed plan characteristic of Middle Byzantine architecture. From the 10th century onwards, the southern aisle of the cathedral was used as a cemetery for burying high-ranking individuals. Between 1535 and 1912, the Hagia Sophia Church, like many churches in Thessaloniki, was used as a mosque. In the 20th century Christian worship resumed here and the church is still actively used.
As we left the wonderful Hagia Sophia Church, we headed towards perhaps the most symbolic and recognizable site in Thessaloniki, which was already appearing on the horizon. We sped up and moved towards the shoreline. Our route continued at the city's most recognizable and most replicated symbol: the White Tower. This is the central meeting point that divides roughly half of the city's historic center and when people talk about meeting, you will inevitably hear the phrase at the White Tower. Lefkos Pyrgos or the White Tower, was once a symbol protecting the maritime borders of the city. Built around the 1530s along with the walls and towers by Sultan Suleiman during the Ottoman Empire, it initially served as barracks for guards and later as a prison for those awaiting execution. Executions took place here, so it was also known as the Bloody Tower. For centuries, the tower formed part of the old city walls, separating the Jewish quarter from the rest of the city. However, in 1866, when Thessaloniki joined Greece, the city walls were demolished and the tower was painted white as a symbol of purification. Today although its color is more grayish, the name remains the same. At the top of the White Tower there is also an excellent observation platform, offering magnificent views of Thessaloniki, the sea and sunsets.
Inside the tower, there is a museum and visitors pass through exhibits to reach the observation platform above. This is a great place for meditation and watching the sea. You can sit at the base of the tower or on the observation deck.
On our way the Alexander the Great Monument began to appear. A little further ahead, you can admire one of my favorite art pieces, which looks fantastic both during the day and night thanks to special evening lighting. This object is highly attractive to both tourists and locals and there are always many people here. Taking photos or posing here is quite difficult. Sometimes the wind blowing from the sea is so strong that you might feel like you’re being swept off to Kansas. And of course, the boats are actually floating bars. If you're a tourist, don't miss the chance to enjoy a cocktail on one of these boats. It's actually quite a fun attraction. The boat ride starts at the White Tower, for instance, where you can see a pirate ship. You board for free, but you need to pay for the drinks sold onboard. Prices aren’t very cheap, but overall, the experience is worth it.
The boat trip goes from the White Tower to the passenger terminal and back along the waterfront. This route takes approximately half an hour. Walking along the seaside promenade, we continued our journey towards the next important and symbolic location in the city. After the White Tower, the promenade narrows but widens again in subsequent sections. Therefore, it makes sense for those who love long seaside walks to consider this section.
Walking along the coast, mesmerized by the stunning sea view drawing us in, the city's most beautiful square appeared before us. And we reached Aristotelous Square, the largest and central square in Thessaloniki. Guess whose statue is here. Yes, dear Aristotle's. This square is where all the city's major events take place: concerts, Christmas trees, shows, events, etc. This area has traditionally been an attractive hub not only for tourists but also for locals. Here is one of the city's most expensive hotels, the five-star Electra Palace Hotel. Also, due to its proximity to the sea, this area has become appealing. The square starts at the waterfront and stretches up to the Agios Dimitrios Basilica. Designed after the Great Fire of 1917, this square symbolizes Thessaloniki's shift away from its Ottoman and Byzantine past towards the complex urban designs of Europe's major cities. Conceived and brought to life by French architect Ernest Hébrard, this idea included the necessity for this central square to meet citizens' needs and provide them with a resting area. At that time Greek Prime Minister Eleftherios Venizelos entrusted Hébrard with the task of rebuilding the city post-fire and preserving surviving parts of the old city was crucial since the city's history spanned over 2000 years. However, Hébrard’s general plan wasn't fully implemented until the mid-1950s and only the designs of Aristotelous Square remained almost unchanged. That's why, for me, this square is the most beautiful spot in the city because the rest of the city's architecture is quite different from this square. You can notice this difference from the exterior view.
In the square, neoclassical buildings, the city’s best five-star hotel, the Electra Palace (not the most expensive though) and the Olympion Cinema, where the annual International Film Festival is held, stand out with their impressive arches. To the left of the cinema is a bronze statue of our beloved philosopher, Aristotle. Hanging at the intersection with Ignatia Street is a floral clock. On Miski Street, you can find fashionable shops and boutiques. And the square is full of cafes, making it a focal point for both tourists and locals.
After leaving the Aristotelous Square complex, we walked upwards in the city. As I mentioned before, our route initially went from top to bottom and now, after Aristotelous Square, we began ascending upwards again, thus completing a circular route. Right here, there is a small park with a statue of a former Greek prime minister. Ahead of me is a rather noisy street: Ados Ignatia Street. Ignatia Street is one of the central arteries of the city, so it will be a bit noisy. On it stands a statue of a fairly famous and controversial figure. This person is Eleftherios Venizelos, the former Greek prime minister who was in power in the early last century. Many things have been named after him: streets, parks, roads and even the airport in Athens. Here, during the Christmas season, one of the city’s largest central fairs is organized. The rest of the time, it is one of the rare wide green spaces in the city center. It offers a pleasant and spacious walking area.
However, besides walking here, you can observe several interesting historical buildings. This church was established in the 10th century and used as a mosque for copper miners guild during the Ottoman occupation. The church was rebuilt in 1934.
Then our path led to another historical site, the Roman Forum. The Roman Forum is one of the most important monuments from the Roman period in Thessaloniki. The forum is located in the city center, in the northern part of Aristotelous Square. As usual, the forum was the social, economic, administrative and spiritual center of the city. Significant findings about the historical and archaeological value of this area were uncovered during archaeological excavations conducted in 1966 during the construction of the courthouse in Thessaloniki. While slowly climbing up from the forum, one of the city's most important churches began to appear. It became visible in a narrow alleyway. We headed towards the Church of Agios Dimitrios. Agios Dimitrios is the protector of Thessaloniki. Therefore, Agios Dimitrios Day is an official holiday here and no one works. However, in Thessaloniki, the relics of Agios Dimitrios, the city's protector, lie atop the ruins of ancient city baths from the Roman period. In 303, he was imprisoned and killed here by a Roman army officer. According to the martyrdom texts of Agios Dimitrios, he was secretly buried here. This cathedral also contains the bones of Agios Dimitrios. It is recorded that someone prayed to Agios Dimitrios for healing from illness and was cured. Around the mid-5th century, eparh Leontios built a venerable church dedicated to Agios Dimitrios. Approximately at the beginning of the 6th century, the basilica burned down and immediately afterward, the city's bishop restored the church to its original form, preserving elements from the previous structure. Thus, a magnificent basilica with five naves, a cross plan and two-story rooms was built. The tomb of Agios Dimitrios is currently located in the northwest corner of the church and is believed to have been there since the early Christian era.
Continuing our walk through the streets of Thessaloniki, admiring the buildings and architecture, we noticed graffiti constantly on the walls. This is the city's headache. As long as anyone can reach any building on the street, every building here will look similarly graffitied. Greece is a religious country, so there are many believers among its citizens and they mostly adhere to Orthodox Christianity. Therefore, whether in the city center or any historical area, you can see many churches everywhere. There are churches from very ancient periods, often found below ground level because the city has gradually sunk. Sometimes you can also see churches at ground level. Of course, many new churches are being built and there are quite luxurious ones too. However, in my opinion, the most interesting ones are the historical churches from the Byzantine period or earlier. For those who appreciate such places, you can definitely find intriguing things in Thessaloniki.
Also the city's churches are the only type of structures you won't encounter graffiti on. These are usually made by students or young people. Painting or repainting the walls is futile because within five minutes everything returns to its original state and graffiti reappear everywhere. Here, you can also see natural gas pipes. Gas stoves are often found on balconies.
We climbed up to the Upper City and here the architectural style is quite different. A style that could be described as Ottoman-style is evident. Small buses navigate the narrow streets. Passing with large vehicles or buses is nearly impossible here. These minibuses transport people from the upper city to the center. Since its founding, the Upper City has been a quite comfortable place for settlement. During the Byzantine period, upper-class people lived here and during the Ottoman period, wealthy Turks settled here because of the pleasant climate, beautiful panoramic views of the city and security due to proximity to the walls.
Most of the old houses here were originally owned by Turks and those who did not continue their traditions. After the population exchange in 1923 the upper city of Thessaloniki opened to settlement by refugee families fleeing Asia Minor. The area carries features of Balkan architecture, with some European influences. Upper floors are supported by wooden or iron beams and living space is increased with balconies and verandas. Among buildings with traditional folk architecture, there are also neoclassical buildings. Many buildings are equipped with decorative plasterwork using plaster and stucco. Since 1979, the architecture of the Ano Poli region has officially been recognized as traditional and restoration and renovation efforts are carried out as much as possible. The magical combination of cobblestone streets, traditional houses and impressive Byzantine-era monuments makes Ano Poli one of the most impressive and colorful walking areas in Thessaloniki. The atmosphere here reflects another era that carries messages from ancient and glorious times.
While wandering in Ano Poli, we climbed up and again saw the walls. While observing these walls that remind us of the city's past glory, we then moved towards one of the most interesting historical sites from the Byzantine period. From here, magnificent views of the city open up. After walking along the walls, we reached the Eastern Orthodox Monastery. The central cathedral is dedicated to the Transfiguration of Jesus, but it wasn't always so. Initially, the sacred place was dedicated to Jesus Almighty. The history of this monastery is quite interesting. In the second half of the 10th century, the monk Latinos from Crete and his brother Markos founded a monastery in Thessaloniki. From the nearby observation platform, captivating views of the city unfold. Here, you can also watch magnificent peacocks in white and other colors, observe the animals and enjoy the city views. Then you can proceed through the narrow streets of the city.
My note about the sidewalks in Thessaloniki: The sidewalks here are generally not very good. If the sidewalk is wide, there is surely a tree growing in the middle and you have to go around it. Often, sidewalks can be blocked by parked cars or walking on them can become hazardous. Therefore, walking here is not always safe.
And we completed our circular route that started from above, then saw the walls again but didn’t rush because there were still many interesting places ahead that we needed to see.