Crush on Kazan, multicultural jewel of Russia
Kazan is an atypical city in Russia. Multicultural, dynamic and modern, it is a step not to be missed. About 800 km from Moscow, on the banks of the Volga River, it is the capital of Tatarstan, an autonomous republic within the Russian Federation. At the same time Orthodox and Muslim, Slavonic and Tatar, European and Eastern, Kazan is a surprising city to discover, rich also of the heritage left by the Soviet period. The mosque minarets mix well with the bulbs of the Orthodox churches. Unlike other Muslim republics such as Chechnya or Ingushetia, the cohabitation with the Russians is going well there.
I stopped there for four days, between Nizhny Novgorod and Samara during my one-month trip to Russia from Moscow to the Black Sea. Kazan is an ideal stage if you want to follow the course of the Volga, or during a trip in Trans-Siberian. Probably because of its diverse cultural influences, it is one of the cities in Russia that I found the most international and welcoming to foreign tourists. There are more signs in English than elsewhere, and there is even a tourist office that distributes detailed maps and brochures in English with English-speaking staff who give plenty of information.
Cristiano Ronaldo on Kazan's walls in Russia
A street-art fresco in homage to the football player Cristiano Ronaldo on Kazan's walls
Kazan has already hosted major world sporting events such as the FIFA Confederations Cup in 2017, and it will be one of the host cities for the 2018 World Cup. This is where the first match of France will take place on 16 June 2018: it's a good thing because it should be one of the most fun cities during the World Cup. Kazan is also one of the main university cities in Russia, so there are plenty of young people and lively bars to go out and party.
To visit in Kazan: the Kremlin
View of Kazan's Kremlin with its large mosque, Orthodox churches and presidential palace
The first site to visit in Kazan is its Kremlin, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city's multicultural aspect is well appreciated, as the large mosque and the Orthodox Church of the Annunciation are a few tens of meters away. This is also where the presidential palace is located. There are also several museums, including the National Museum of Tatarstan, but they are not so worth it: there are no explanations in English, so the interest is quickly limited.
The Orthodox Church of the Annunciation
The most important site to visit is the Kul Sharif Mosque. It is one of the largest mosques in Europe, with a capacity of 1600 faithful, but in fact it is more a cultural centre than a place of worship. It is a very recent mosque since it was built in 2005, on the model of a mosque destroyed in 1552 by Ivan the Terrible when he conquered the city. There is also a museum of Islamic culture in the Volga, but without an English legend you don't understand much.
View of the Kul Sharif Mosque behind the Kremlin Fortified Wall
Access to the Kremlin and places of worship is free. The only paying entries are those of museums.
Discover Tatar culture in Kazan
A Tatar style house in Kazan
The Tatars are a Turkish and Muslim people. They have a president, a constitution and the Tatar has official language status with Russian. To immerse yourself in the Tatar culture, you have to go and see the old Tatar settlement, along Tukay street, near Kazan Lake. It's not as old as it looks because most of the houses look rather new, but it gives a good idea of the local architecture. Beautiful coloured wooden houses with ornamental decorations. There are two other beautiful mosques in Kazan: the Mardjani Mosque and the Nurullah Mosque.
Kick of heart for the chak-chak museum in Kazan
Not far away is a small museum full of charm: the Chak-chak Museum (Parizhskoi kommuny st 18). Chak-chak is one of Tatarstan's main gastronomic specialities: it is a dessert based on honey, flour and egg. You learn how to cook and you get a tasting. But the museum is not limited to this culinary delicacy alone... You can also discover a lot of things about Tatar culture, local customs and clothing fashion. In addition, the interior is so well decorated. It feels like a local Tatar house, welcomed by guides in costume. It's one of my favorite visits to Kazan. On the other hand, you have to book a guided tour in English (it is not possible to visit the museum by yourself, you must be with a guide). The best thing to do is to call (+7 (843)239 22 31), or else to show up at the reception desk and have the chance to have a visit in English on the agenda quickly.
Soviet heritage in Kazan
What is quite seductive and atypical in Kazan is the unlikely mix of Tatar oriental culture and Soviet heritage, which has left many traces, whether in terms of architecture or cultural influence. There are two unusual little museums to discover. Apart from those who are passionate about old Soviet objects (of which I am a part...) it is not necessarily worth visiting both, but at least one of them. The first is the Museum of Soviet Life (Soviet Lifestyle Museum; Ostrovskogo 39). One has the impression of entering an old attic with an impressive collection of everyday objects from the former USSR that one discovers with a soundtrack of Soviet pop music. It's a vintage bric-a-brac where you can find everything from propaganda tools, portraits of Lenin or astronaut Gagarin, to military memorabilia. For fun, you can even dress up in Soviet-style clothing. The museum was opened by a musician: there is also a collection of musical instruments and many testimonies of bands that came to Kazan to play.
The second is the Museum of happy childhood (Musée de l' enfance soviétique; Univeritetskaya 9). It's the same principle as the museum of Soviet life, but with lots of old toys. A former classroom is reconstructed, and there is a room with lots of old Soviet video games. A real time travel!
The Ministry of Agriculture in Kazan
As regards architecture, there are several "post-Soviet" architectural projects. Moreover, they are very well lit at night! One of the unavoidable ones is the Ministry of Agriculture, located just below the Kremlin. It cannot be visited, but its disproportionate facade is worth a look, for its typical Renaissance-style imitation of the immense buildings built after the Soviet era. Special mention for the steel shaft in front of the entrance porch.
Kazan Family Center with its funny flying saucer shape
The other interesting building is the Kazan Family Center. It is a little off-centre because it is located on the other side of the Kazanka River. It's a place used to celebrate weddings. You can climb on the observation terrace from where you have a beautiful view of Kazan and its kremlin, even if it is a little far. Even more unusual building with night lighting.
Unusual: the temple of all religions
The temple of all religions is a symbolic place for Kazan's multicultural identity. Located on the banks of the Volga River, outside the city, it is the achievement of a Russian artist, Ildar Khanov, who wanted to create a place of sharing and encounters of all religions. An Orthodox church, a Catholic church, a Protestant temple, a Muslim mosque, a Jewish synagogue, a Buddhist temple... The objective of this "universal temple" is to represent all religions. Unfortunately, the project was left unfinished when the artist died in 2013. Passionate people try to continue his work, but it is a considerable undertaking.
It's an unusual place that is worth a detour, but it's never safe to come in for a visit because it's a private place and not much is being done at the moment to enhance it. I was lucky that there was someone to get me in, but that's not always the case. You can get there by bus in 45 minutes, or by taxi in about 15 minutes.
Visit Kazan: practical notebook
Go: Kazan is a good stopover on the Trans-Siberian route. It's 12 hours by train from Moscow. It is possible to buy train tickets on the Russian Railways website in English. Be careful, there are two train stations in Kazan: it is better to choose a train that stops in Kazan-1/Kazan-Pass, which is close to the centre, than Kazan-2/Vosstanie-Pass, which is north of the city, on the metro line.
The main axis to be located in Kazan is Bauman Street, a huge pedestrian street that connects the Kremlin to the main square of the city, the Tukaya Ploschad. Most of the restaurants and bars are located on this street and it is in this area that you should look for a hotel (within the triangle formed by the train station, the Kremlin and Tukaya Square). Kazan is a city that can be enjoyed with a small budget. The average price of a bus/metro ticket is 25 rubles (approx. 35 cts). You can eat in the local cafeterias (stolovayas) for 2 or 3 euros. To sleep, we find beds in dormitory at 5 euros per night, double rooms with bathroom shared between 15 and 20 euros, double rooms in 3/4* hotels from 30 euros.
Where to sleep: The Wings Hostel is a nice little address in Kazan, ideally located halfway between the train station and Bauman Street. There are both dormitories (approx. 8€) and double rooms with shared bathroom (approx. 20€). You can easily meet other travellers in the common room and English-speaking staff give good information to visit the city. The plus: arriving at 7 o' clock in the morning after a night on the train, I was able to do an early check-in for 200 rubles (approx. 3€), which is very nice!
For those who want the cheapest possible option, there is the Express Hotel, just in front of the station. It's quite basic and without charm but the prices defy any competition. A dormitory bed costs 5€ and a double room 10€. There is also a large common kitchen for making food.
Where to eat: The perfect canteen for a good, inexpensive and fast lunch is the Chak-Chak, at 7 rue Bauman, 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. It is a typical Russian self-service cafeteria with both Tatar and Russian specialities. In the same style, a little further on Bauman Street, there is Dom Chaya, at n°64. Be careful, in the evening, these cafeterias close early, usually around 8pm. In these two addresses, we eat a full meal for 2 to 3 euros.
For a restaurant with a little more cachet, I recommend Family Cafe Skazka (no. 58 Bauman Street). Nice Tatar decoration and typical kitchen, ideal for dinner in the evening. Budget about 10 euros.
To enjoy yourself in a top-of-the-range restaurant, it is really worth going to a dinner at Dom Tatarskoy Kulinarii (no. 31 Bauman). A chic and quite formal atmosphere, but the service is very good and the tartar food delicious. About 20 euros for a full meal with drinks.
Where to go out: one of the best bars in Kazan is the Salt Bar (ul Profsoyuznaya 22). Cheap beers, good atmosphere and there is often live music.
I hope I made you want to visit Kazan. If you've been there before, feel free to share your impressions and advice in comments. To go to Russia, I invite you to read my full article to prepare a trip to Russia.