On this last day of an international fashion season often dominated by cloned heads, holographic fabrics and futuristic pieces, Karl Lagerfeld's latest Chanel collection was impressive to discover: an expression of chic, capable of capturing the unique splendor of nature.
Instant sylvestre at Chanel, in a parade staged in the middle of a huge forest, recreated in a remarkable way inside the Grand Palais, to present a wide range of stylish and chic autumn outfits. The walls were decorated with giant hangings of old wood, the 2000 guests were perched on wooden benches, the floor was covered with roots and maple leaves intertwined. This is a setting that really wanted to say wow!
The famous Chanel tweed was revisited in orange, magenta and purple shades of November - the patterns of fabrics often imitating fractal structures - evoking the Adirondacks, the forests of northern Europe or Siberia Dersou Ouzala (film d 'Akira Kurosawa, ed). It was cut in long flared blazers, or long skirts up to the ankles associated with a classic four-pocket Chanel jacket. Matching scarves completed many silhouettes.
Many long coats embroidered with fabric flowers and micro-feathers, for a parade that featured 18 looks. Wonderful wild creatures that waltzed the leaves as they paced the podium in jacquard pieces with dense embroidery, or knit dresses complemented by chains and necklaces adorned with pearls like berries. Touches of golden maple everywhere, long waders pointed or pretty pumps.
"It's the kind of Indian summer I love, with the golden leaves. It's a very beautiful atmosphere: autumn has always been my favorite season. I grew up in the countryside, in a house surrounded by a field that included 12 tree-lined avenues, which looked a bit like that. In a way, I come back to the roots of my childhood, "explained Karl Lagerfeld behind the scenes, after posing with Carla Bruni for photographers.
While the applause echoed in the Grand Palace, Karl greeted briefly, accompanying his new favorite top, Luna Bijl.
The models looked falsely austere, their hair pulled up into loose buns, and the makeup deliberately dark and gloomy. For the evening, a whole series of classy black dresses, in the neglected style, like the one worn by Kaia Gerber, brand new ambassador. Her outfit was accessorised with pink gloves up to the elbows, and a new flexible foldable bag, the 31, a game about the French expression "to get on his 31", that is to say to dress very well. chic.
"Kaia is fabulous, her mother is fabulous and she is wonderful. But my favorite top is Luna, the Dutch girl with whom I came to greet. She's so funny, and she's part of my new gang, which I call Les Choupettes: he understands Vanessa Paradis's daughter, Lily Rose, and my godson Hudson, "chuckles Karl, referring to his beloved cat, Choupette.
When asked about the fashion dinner organized the night before at the Elysee Palace, here is Karl's answer: "Anna [Wintour] wanted me to accompany her. I was invited, but I never go to parties or events the day before a parade. It brings bad luck. In addition, I heard that young designers were not very neat. Only Anna was dressed like a queen, "he pouted, himself in a black jacket with miniature fabric flowers, suede pants, and a classic black silk woven tie with a huge sapphire.
"French politicians have always been afraid of fashion. They fear that their image is associated with the rich and haute couture. So it's a good thing that Macron wanted to change that by organizing this dinner. Bravo! He concludes.