Cold, bleak, crisp air. Everybody walking around in masks and sniffling. People dressed in black or grey padded jackets. I head out to the subway station for a trip across this city. The subway car is first filled with young and old, but after downtown lots of seats are empty and it is just the old. I reach the old neighbourhood of Hadan, where even the young people look old. Or at least from the Korea of 20 years ago. I search google. Happily there is now a Starbucks here too. Come in for a coffee while waiting for my girlfriend and a trip for an MRI at a local hospital.