Sorry STEEMIANS.
The goal is to record and reflect about OUR Summer-2018 Surfing experiences everyday and immediately after WE finish our session. That way you get the REAL/RAW Inspiration of @CryptoCrusaders [Surfing with Crypto]
Without further A-Do...Allow me to visually paint you a picture...
The past few days the local surf has been increasing in size as well as the rip current.
"rip current - a relatively strong, narrow current flowing outward from the beach through the surf zone and presenting a hazard to swimmers"
Not everyday can surfers catch the "Most Memorable Wave", to be honest it's usually a DROP IN...STAND...RIDE...for a few seconds...and off the board!
Believe it or NOT the "Most Memorable" was the STRONG RIP CURRENT Again today.
Normally we get out after drifting 2-3 life guard stations and re enter the water so we don't drift too far from our vehicles. Today we drifted 6 life guard stations. Now I cannot leave you hanging without a wave...
After finally making it past the 3-4 Foot Sets...the other CryptoCrusader separated from ME fast and I was all alone which I prefer.
1st wave paddled into it just to get a feel and take a quick look at the WALL and paddled out of the DROP!
2nd wave DROPPED IN...IMMEDIATELY felt the instant lift and steep dropping fall, didn't need to paddle and already position to place my feet on the board, but wait!!!
(Slow-Mo Visual)
Short board at a -60° angle just released my hands from board and immediately swiped my board out of the way...
Heheeheheeeee....WIPEOUT!
I totally chickened out of that 5 foot WALL DROP.
[NOT TODAY]
- 3rd wave 3 footer normal nothing special back side RIDE which lasted 3 seconds...ehhh...
Until next time...
Keep STEEM N ON,
Frank