Aloha guys, my second post will talk about the surf session we had at Avalanche yesterday (19/09/2022).
Nounifying Avalanche for the first time ⌐◨-◨
Pilot: Bernardo Nassar | Frame: Davi Duda
Avalanche is located right in front of my house.
When I was a teenager, there was a big question about how big this wave really was, if it was possible to surf it and on what conditions the wave would break. The NXF Bodyboard crew are local heroes from Vila Velha, Espírito Santo, who discovered the wave and currently do an amazing work protecting and creating an amazing vibe around this spot.
Avalanche breaks in an outer reef 3km away from the Praia da Costa beach, and most people use jet skis or boats to get there. It's a 15-20 minutes ride from the ramp that we use.
This time, our crew went with 3 jet-skis and the NXF inflatable boat. Most of the crew were the heavy wave hunters from NXF Bodyboard, and also few surfers, including myself, Fabio Sandes, Thiago Berger, Felipe Lacerda and Andre Vello. Diego Silva was taking pictures and Davi Duda was recording videos.
It felt really good to have this structure for the first time in years - something we achieved after entering into the web3 space - we had a grant approved and developed an NFT project on the MADnft.io platform.
It's important to mention that when we're surfing big and heavy waves, everyone that goes to the session collaborates as a team - there's many things that can go wrong, and having this sense of community and collaboration is crucial for everyone's safety and wellbeing.
Before going to Avalanche, we went to check a spot called "2012" - an epic wave located in the Bay of Vitória. This slab works with a bit more south in the swell, which was the case, as you can see the 154º swell direction. We usually use Surfguru to check the forecast and decide where to go.
Winds were calm during the whole morning and the expectations for the session were great.
At the beginning of this winter, in May, we scored an epic session at "2012", the first one to show the wave's real potential to the world. We even did a NFT drop with some photos from this session.
The reality was 2012 was slow, there was too much water in the reef. We went to check Avalanche it was also a bit slow. Every 20 - 30 minutes a nice set came through.
The NXF Bodyboard guys were paddling, and they wanted more action. They went exploring two other slabs, Sharp and D2, and they scored some good ones.
Meanwhile, we were doing a training session and eventually finding some fun ones at Avalanche.
Fabio Sandes finding the flow. Pilot: Luiz Hadad | Frame: Davi Duda
I started piloting for Fabio and when Bernardo came back from D2, I went to the rope.
We got two waves and I wasn't satisfied with my line. I've been working on the Avalanche line for a long time. I've been trying to come as deep as possible and still be able to complete the barrel. Well, not this time. Even though I had a great vision from the barrel, the last part of the lip broke on me, closing out.
It was a heavy one. I was using a board with handles, and my front foot got stuck. I twisted my knee and my ankle, and felt a lot of pain underwater. I tried to stay calm and prayed that nothing would happen with my knee.
Luckily the knee is fine and I didn't break any bones. I twisted my ankle and should be out of the water for couple weeks.
At the end it was a fun session and despite being hurt, it was all worth it.
When I get back in the water I will try to post about most of our surf sessions at #SurfHive .
Meanwhile, I'll be helping build the SurfHive community trying to onboard more surfers into web3 - and also incentivizing and supporting people from the web3 community that want to surf!
Let me know any other surf content you guys would like to see on Hive!
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