Great story, the southern ocean packs a punch. Respect brother. I took a waterman course in West Oz last year and one of the biggest things i learnt was that 'fear is healthy, panic is deadly'. Takes massive balls to throw yourself over the ledge, especially when the locals are paddling for the channel. Looking forward to hearing more from you legend!
ps - Is that you in the photos? Killer shots!
RE: Lessons Learnt From Macking Surf