Wow!
Learning to surf in Florida never opened a door for big waves to me. Probably that's for the best. There was one day when a hurricane was offshore making larger than usual waves. I had just ridden one inside and was paddling back out when that super set decided to come in. It didn't show until I was already committed to getting outside. I'd like to say I caught the wave like you did but instead it caught me. I was tired from the previous ride and simply couldn't paddle fast enough to beat or catch this wave. It was close enough that I tried, got to the crest just in time to be rolled up. Of course the board was ripped from my grip (no straps in those days) and I kissed the bottom (we have a sandy break, no rock much in Florida) for way too long. I body surfed in until I got to the rip current. I didn't try to fight it so I ended up on shore about a half mile from where I started tired but alive.
So I rested a bit and went back out! Of course.
We learn a lot of lesson on a board (and some after we've fallen off). Thank you for sharing yours with us.
And take good care of the dog. They're always willing to listen and I'm convinced understand far more than we think.