Surfing is a sport of the spirit. If you do not have a calm mind, no matter how hard you try, you can not ride a wave. It is not a matter of measuring forces. It does not consist in dominating the sea or that it dominates you. It is about finding the perfect balance point, in which you, your surfboard and the sea become one. It is the only way to flow.
In surfing, like in the most exciting things in life, you must let yourself go: forget what surrounds you and give yourself completely. You have to give everything, absolutely everything. There's no other way. There is not other way to do it.
Surfing can be a mirror and reveal what we carry inside. We become completely transparent when we enter to the ocean with our surfboard.
I also learned that I have to stop thinking so much with reason and let my heart take more control, that I have to relax more, that sometimes you do not have to think things so much, you just have to let everything flow.
I know that it is not the time yet to go back to the sea and try again. I don’t feel ready, but I hope to return one day. I want to know what it feels like… Ride a wave feeling freedom for the first time. The descriptions of the other people were not enough, because there are things that to understand them must first be lived.
When I manage to calm my mind and change a few things inside myself, I know that I'll be ready to go back and maybe that reencounter will turn into a encounter.
