So I just came up from having three 50 foot++ waves break on my head and I was completely exhausted and light headed. I popped up within 5 feet from my friend who's eyes were rolling in the back of his head. Quickly regaining my senses, I rushed over to him. At this point, I had no board since my leash broke seconds after the first wave hit me. However, my friend did so I grabbed him, put him on his surfboard and I bear hugged him strapping us onto his board before the next giant wave hit us. I knew that if I let go, he would die.
I should mention that I worked as a lifeguard a couple years back before this all went down so I have a background in water safety and emergency situations.
The next wave hit us like a freight train sending both of us deep underwater. I held on to him and the board while this was happening. I can't believe I held on through all of this. It must have been the adrenaline. As the wave passed by us, the board then acted as an underwater beach ball sending us skyrocketing to the surface. I then had time to check his vitals from atop of the surfboard. I turned his head and he started coughing and gasping for air. Unfortunately the next wave was about to hit us so I held on for impact. The wave pushed us in closer to the island but towards a giant cliff.
Since this is an island, it is surrounded by cliffs and rocks and it is very difficult to get onto the island. Bringing a semi conscious friend onto the island was a whole other challenge in itself. I ended up placing my friend on the surfboard and me on top of him spreading his legs so that my legs were on the board giving me enough leverage to act as a rudder- I realize that's a funny visual but this is a serious situation guys... There was only one spot where we could get onto the island. This spot is surrounded by cliffs with waves smashing into them. I had to fight the current that was trying to drag us into the cliffs and I was able to paddle just hard enough to get us onto the island.
I quickly ditched the surfboard and dragged his body onto the island. I laid his head on a rock and he was out. I sat in disbelief that we just went through all of that. But I was happy that I was there, otherwise my friend would have died. My other friends surfing thought I had died and were searching for my body but on another part of the island. An hour later they spotted us.
My friend did not know how he got there. He did not remember anything. Once the boat picked us up, everyone was silent. They were freaked out and his wife was crying thinking that her husband died. That was the last time he ever surfed big waves. For me, I needed to get out there again because I knew that if I didn't, I would end up turning my back on the sport that I love. It didn't take long for me to get back on my feet, about a month later another big swell came in and I was on it.
