Surf...
It's the sport of the kings and an ancient form of getting back to shore after a fruitful fishing session. But, what is surfing for you? We all know surfing is an old practice that became a sport and a pastime in the 20th century. Yet, there's more to it that can't be described.
Surfers regularly feel the need to get back in the water. How do you explain that? Is that an uncontrolled desire a formulation of the brain? Why does surfing make us so happy with life and ourselves?
Surfing is an addiction. A timeless and eternal pleasure that takes out of bed on a cold winter Saturday morning and that, quite often, only pushes us out of the water when the night down, and the waves become ghosts.
The more you surf, the more you find it hard to describe surfing in words. Perhaps that explains why we start feeling strange, lost or depressed when, for many reasons, our life doesn't allow us to surf.
Pictures below show you the Marquesas islands waves...
