#BonsaiNews: Crepe Myrtle - the tree, shrub, bonsai that you'll lov...

THERE'S just something splendidly marvelous about the countless variety of Myrtle available - some range from trees to shrubs however, any and all of them can be used as bonsai.

The trick though with Myrtle, since they grow rather fast, is to always be in control of the plant itself and not allow it to grow out wildly - this is a tree/shrub which truly, much like the Cherry Blossom Tree, (read more here: #BonsaiNews: A sacred tree rich in history, favored both by gods and spirits and protected by man) requires a hands on approach and anything less will see the fruits of your labor not rewarded.

While efforts may be made to control and restrict growth during the first year or two, it is advised to allow the plant to grow naturally as much as possible since their root system takes a while to properly establish itself and strengthen - do not skip on watering during the first few months as this plant requires as much water as possible.

During this time, regardless of whether you intend to grow it for the purpose of bonsai or not, one should attempt to not prune it too much as this will cause great growth from the bottom of the plant itself - instead opt to wire and shape the tree from a young age.

Being that the tree reacts wildly to pruning, it might be wise to try unique and dramatic shaping styles to create an astounding visual element while not removing any of the branches.

The Myrtle absolutely loves water and would enjoy a site where it has constant access to water so as to feed itself as required - in bonsai, this is not always possible unless you create your own landscape from scratch and apply a design which will see a pool created in it.

This may even cause the tree's roots to spread toward the water source to sustain itself, especially if grown and grafted onto a rock - this will create the most visual element possible. Moss may be used to protect the trees tap roots in such an instance, especially since it loves full sun.

When the tree is used for whatever purpose in a location where summer temperatures run quite high, it is advised that it be planted in an area which receives morning sunlight and afternoon shade - they however do love sunshine.

When planted in full sun, this plant benefits most and will have added protection from both insects and fungal diseases - the plant itself will also be encouraged to flower more efficiently.

During the growing season of the plant, it is advised that it receive plenty fertilization, generally every two weeks so as to aid the plant in its continued growth and establishment. Avoid feeding the plant during winter.

I mentioned that one should wire the tree from a young age earlier above because, wiring this tree at a later stage, once the bark has started forming, or has formed, will result in damaging the bark - if you have an older tree which has already formed bark and you would still like to wire it, ensure that you wrap either the wire or the piece you'd like to wire in a wrap of some kind.

Failing to do so will have the tree's bark sustained damage and you would preferably enjoy avoiding this as its bark is rather visually pleasant.

During the growing season, pruning should be avoided at all costs and should only be done in the weeks prior to breaking dormancy, which is generally a month or two prior to the arrival of spring, as these trees bloom on new growth.

A wise tip, since seedpods of the Myrtle tend to weigh down the branches, would be to prune the seedpod right before the tip so as to encourage new growth and blooming.

When new growth appears in the form of leaves, it is wise to continue monitoring these for signs of infection - look for aphids.

General prior watering of foliage may hinder the appearance of aphids however, if it has been infested, an insecticide is advised - most organic pest killers temporarily hinder the infestation.

Getting back to pruning:

If you do want to do some major pruning, be prepared to care of shoots and so so fast - Myrtles take well to regular pruning and, doing so will greatly encourage the tree to focus its growth on existing branches if regular pruning is maintained efficiently.

It may also be a brilliant idea, in order to thicken the trunk, to allow a 'sacrifice branch' to grow from the just above the base - when the time comes to remove this branch, ensure that you have some adhesive aluminum foil on hand, which may be used to cover the exposed wound as a result of branch removal.

This will ensure that a nasty scar is not left behind however, it is advised that you remove the branch as close as possible and attempt to leave as flat a surface as possible before applying the adhesive foil - leave the foil on until the next growing season.

Re-potting, which should be done every second to third year during winter months, should also allow for general root pruning to be done. The best time to do so is during mid-winter when the tree is dormant. For some, due to location and temperature, spring would be best as it would be warmer then.

The Myrtle is some places around the world, again, depending on climate, may be re-potted during winter - this would be fine in my part of the world since our winters are not as cold as that of China.