The Basic Needs
Every dog needs its basic instincts fulfilled, or it will develop unwanted behaviors that, when left unchecked, can turn into aggression. A dog needs a strong leader who will provide it with exercise through simulated pack migration. The structured walks simulate the search for food and water. Every dog needs supervised play times and structured eating routines. Every dog needs a leader who will be consistent with rule enforcement and give a lot of positive attention.
Release of Energy
Most bad behavior can be avoided by draining our dog's energy for at least 45 minutes, two or three times a day depending on the breed. When we walk our dogs without letting them sniff, pee or browse, we are simulating a pack migration. A focused walk. A walk with intention. It is a structured activity and gives them both physical and mental exercise, while bonding the pack even closer to each other.
Structured Mealtimes
Structured eating routines should be coordinated with a structured walk. In the wild, the walk ends when the dogs find food and water. We can provide this basic need very easily. After each simulated pack migration, feed and water the dog. But never let them eat or drink until after you have eaten and had something to drink first. Do this in front of your dog. In the wild, the leader always eats while the rest of the pack waits. When the leader is done, then the majority of the pack eats except for the omega. They eat after the entire pack has finished. Sometimes the omegas go without eating because there is none left for them. Allowing your dog to eat before you, will set him up for bad behavior later on.
Supervised Play Dates
Supervised play time with other dogs is a great way to let your dog blow off some steam. Dogs, even in the wild, will play for hours before they settle down. Do not discourage the play if it lasts a long time. This is great for your dog, it is one of his basic needs. You can be the other dog if you need to be, as long as your dog gets to release as much energy as they want. Remember, this is about providing the structure that your dog needs to be well adjusted. So be prepared to play for hours if needed.
Positive Attention
Positive attention is just as important as rule enforcement. In my experience with dogs of all breeds and aggression levels, positive attention and rule enforcement go hand in had. One addresses the bad behavior while the other rewards good behavior. Positive attention shows the dog that we are happy with him, that his behavior is acceptable. When he goes potty outside, praise him while is in the middle of releasing himself. When he is done, praise him some more. Anytime your dog is calmly laying next to you, softly rub his head. When he does something you like, love on him with all your soul. Shower him with your affection and positive attention when he behaves the way you want him to behave.
Positive Rule Enforcement
Positive rule enforcement is essential to show the dog we are unhappy with his behavior. Do not expect the dog to know what to do without first teaching the dog the rules. The first rule they learn is to pee outside, not inside. To teach them to go outside, we must enforce that rule when they pee in the house. There are many ways to humanly enforce the rules. Some dogs just need a look and they get the point. Others may need more stern correction. Rule enforcement should end with you showing the dog what the proper behavior is, and giving him positive attention when he acts the way you want him to.
In all situations and all cases, aggressive or not, always stay calm. Never get violent with the dog. Slight nudges and pokes, even a loud 'no!' is enough to break the dog's concentration, reminding him that you are the boss and that he is misbehaving. When he calms down, you acknowledge his good behavior with positive attention.
How I Handle Dangerous Aggression Cases
I Stay Calm
Every aggression case I have ever handled is already in a hyper state of anxiety. So I must stay calm. The first thing I do is properly secure the dog's collar around his neck so that if he pulls, he will not slip his head through and take off. He does not know me, but I know him. He is scared. He will try flight, then fight. If I need to, I will turn a leash into a choke collar so I do not risk a bite while I adjust his collar.
Under Constant Supervision
Then I will secure him to my waist line. At night, he is secured in a crate. During the day, he is attached to me and goes where I go. While he is connected to me in the house, I will drop treats for him when he is not looking. He gets accustomed to staying near me for all the goodies I drop. After a couple of weeks, he is used to being at my side and knowing that I am calm, confident and will not hurt him. I start taking him for walks, to see how much of his energy I need to expend on a daily basis. Depending on his breed, I may have to get my bike out and go for a run. We expend his energy twice a day for 45 minutes each time, longer if needed. Sometimes I run him up hills too. I take him to the nearest body of water and we dip our feet while he gets a refreshing drink before heading home.
Structured Walk/Run and the Simulated Migration
Inevitably on our 45 minute walk/run, we will encounter a trigger and his aggressive behavior rears it's ugly head. I correct him for acting aggressive, get him under control and redirect his focus to me and the migration we are on. I give him praise for ignoring the distraction and we move on. If I am lucky, we will encounter several triggers so I can adjust his behavior each time. Each time he misbehaves is an opportunity to show him how to behave the way I want him to behave.
Structured Mealtime
After our simulated pack migration, I bring him home, and let him watch me eat. After I am done, I give him his dish and leave him to eat by himself. When he is done, he goes in a crate. Generally, if I have done him justice, he will sleep for a couple of hours and need to go potty when he wakes up. I take him out to go potty, praising him as he pees. I do not give him the chance to pee inside. He goes straight from the crate to outside.
Structured Playtime and Free Time
Then it is play time. With his dog on dog aggression, it is not a good idea to expose him to another dog yet. So I play with him for as long as possible. Tug of war, ball play, Frisbee play, anything he loves to do. When he loses interest in playing, I take him back inside and stop paying attention to him. I sit to write a blog post, or do something like it while I drop bits of treats every ten minutes next to my feet. He comes and eats them and waits for more, but I make him wait. He gets tired of standing and sits. So I drop more treats. He eats them. As long as he remains calm at my side, I make it rain treats every 10, 15 and 20 minutes. I wait longer and longer between drops, and start dropping them only when he calmly laying down.
Quieting the Anxiety
Throughout the day, I spend time working with him on his anxiety. In my experience, when a dog is this aggressive, they cannot hear anything but their own anxiety. I work on getting him to relax with a lot of touching, petting, massaging and cuddling together in the floor. Eventually, it is time for another a walk/run before dinner, a little play, potty time and then bedtime. This is the routine until I am confident his anxiety levels are quiet and he is ready to meet another dog.
Meeting Other Dogs
When I introduce him to other dogs, I keep a close watch on him, never letting the leash go, but giving him slack to investigate. I expect the first few times to require me to show him how to properly behave around other dogs. So I will pay attention to his body language, looking for the signs that signal an attack or dominant behavior. He does not know how to play with others nicely, so I correct him when needed and praise him when needed.
At first, he will naturally try to dominate the other dogs. I will correct him for it, and then praise him when he acts appropriately. Before I know it, he is getting along with the other dogs and playing nicely. We repeat the play dates three times a week for as long as it takes for him to show no more signs of aggression towards dogs.
Dealing with Human Aggression
If he is human aggressive, I will take him on structured walks to areas where I know a lot people will be gathering. I will intentionally walk him close to people who trigger his aggression so that I may teach him that he is not allowed to act like that. When he ignores a person, or accepts them to pet him, I give him all the love the world has to offer. I reward him for his good behavior, I correct him for his bad. Usually between 2-4 months of this routine and he is not acting aggressive anymore. In fact, he loves people and other dogs by now. He is happy and enjoys life instead of being afraid and hating life.
No Trauma from Rehabilitation
I do not believe in beating or abusing animals to get the results I get. Negative re-enforcement blows all the positive work I put into their behavior modifications. Even the ones that have required stronger handling than others have become happy healthy, non-aggressive dogs, with no trauma from rehabilitation. The tools that I use are used in such a positive way, that the dogs do not fear them. Instead, they get excited and happy when I bring them out.
With the tools and knowledge I have, the dog gets it's needs met. Basic things like structure, activities and guidance. All dogs respond positively to a strong leader who provides them with structure, energy releasing activities, guidance, affection and understanding. It takes a lot of patience, but the well behaved dog that emerges is worth every moment.
Later Gaters!