Jika ada waktu, sesekali cobalah menghabiskan waktu senggang dengan menyambangi pantai Kampung Jawa, Kutaraja, Banda Aceh. Di sana, kalian bisa melihat dari dekat kehidupan para pemulung atau nelayan pukat darat. Ada saja tingkah polah mereka yang membuat kita senang, minimal sebelum senja berakhir di kampung yang juga salah satu tapak awal terbentuknya kota Banda Aceh (konon).
Saya sendiri bersama dua anak lelaki saya (Fatih dan Arkana), sangat menikmati 'atraksi' tarik pukat yang begitu menguras tenaga. Sejak masih menjadi warga Peulanggahan hingga berpindah jadi warga Keudah (keduanya masih di Kecamatan Kutaraja), saya menyusuri jalan yang di bagian kirinya dipenuhi pohon bakau dan nipah yang sangat rapat, membuat seekor biawak kesulitan bermigrasi ke perkampungan warga. Sore hari adalah waktu yang sangat cocok berkendara di kawasan itu: udaranya sepoi-sepoi dan kita akan terlindungi dari cahaya matahari langsung.
If there is time, occasionally try to spend your free time by visiting the coast of Kampung Jawa, Kutaraja, Banda Aceh. There, you can see closely the life of the scavengers or the trawlers. Over there is just their attitude that makes us happy, at least before dusk ends in the village which is also one of the initial tread of Banda Aceh (supposedly).
I myself along with my two boys (Fatih and Arkana), really enjoy the 'attraction' drag trawlers are so draining. Since I was a Peulanggahan citizen to move to become a citizen of Keudah (both still in Kutaraja Sub-district), I walked along a street in the left with mangrove trees and nipah very tight, making a lizard difficult to migrate to residents' settlements. The afternoon is a very suitable time to drive in the area: the air is breezy and we will be protected from direct sunlight.
Di pantai Kampung Jawa yang selalu ramai di waktu sore, lebih-lebih setelah jalan beraspal dibuat tembus hingga ke Pelabuhan Ulee Lheue, kita yang memendam rindu menginjak kaki di Sabang atau Pulau Aceh, bisa melihat pulau terluar Aceh itu dari bibir pantai. Bagi anda yang ingin menikmati suara ombak pecah menghantam tanggul, kalian cukup memarkirkan mobil atau sepeda motor di sepanjang jalan yang tembus ke pelabuhan. Namun kalau takut kulitmu menghitam, kalian cari saja tempat teduh yang biasa digunakan pemancing.
Karena selalu ke pantai Kampung Jawa, saya bahkan sudah hafal dengan aktivitas rutin para nelayan, terutama ketika mereka sedang tidak menarik pukat. Jadwal mereka tarik pukat pun saya hafal dengan baik sekali: pukul 10.40; 14.00; dan pukul 16.40. Biasanya mereka menghabiskan waktu dengan bermain domino di balai yang dibangun persis di pinggir pantai, yang lain jadi penonton. Sebagian yang lain bersantai di warung kopi atau memilih tiduran di balai.
On the beach Kampung Java is always crowded in the afternoon, especially after the asphalt road is made through to the Port of Ulee Lheue, we are longing to step on foot in Sabang or Pulau Aceh, can see the outer island of Aceh from the beach. For those of you who want to enjoy the sound of breaking waves hit the embankment, you just park the car or motorcycle along the way through the harbor. But if you're afraid your skin blackened, you just find a place of shade commonly used angler.
Because I always go to Kampung Jawa beach, I have even memorized the routine activities of the fishermen, especially when they are not pulling a net. Their trawling drag schedule I memorized very well: at 10:40; 2 pm; and 16:40. Usually they spend time playing dominoes in a hall built right on the beach, others being spectators. Some others relax in the coffee shop or choose to lie down on the hall.
Dulu, nelayan tarik pukat darat di sana, rata-rata sudah berumur. Opung, misalnya. Sebagian giginya sudah lama berpisah dengan gusi. Tapi, jangan ragukan kekuatan fisik yang dimilikinya, sekali pun dia berjalan dengan sedikit pincang. Dia sanggup mengangkut air dengan drum seukuran 25 liter, bolak-balik. Hal itu dilakukan tiap kali ikan yang terjaring pukat ditempatkan di dalam bak seukuran 2x3 meter, dan membutuhkan air untuk membersihkan sisa-sisa lumpur.
Mereka semua memang punya tubuh kekar dan berotot dipadu warna kulit hitam legam terbakar terik matahari. Melihat bentuk fisik mereka, kita langsung sepakat kalau mereka adalah pribadi-pribadi kuat. Hanya dua-tiga orang saja yang masih tergolong muda. Umur sama sekali tidak menghalangi mereka saling bercanda, dan kadang-kadang berbicara di luar batas kewajaran. Khas nelayan. Namun, hubungan mereka sudah seperti layaknya satu keluarga: mereka makan bersama, dan kadang-kadang tidur di balai itu bersama. Kalau berbicara, volumenya sering diperbesar dan kasar. Tapi, begitulah cara berkomunikasi masyarakat pesisir.
In the past, fishermen drag trawlers there, the average is old. Opung, for example. Some of his teeth have long since parted with gums. But, do not doubt his physical strength, even if he walked with a little limp. He can carry water with a drum the size of 25 liters, back and forth. This is done every time a netted fish is placed in a 2x3 meter tub, and needs water to clean up the remains of the mud.
They all do have a muscular body and muscular combined with the color of the black skin burned by the sun. Looking at their physical form, we immediately agree that they are powerful individuals. Only two or three people are still young. Age does not at all prevent them from joking with each other, and sometimes speaking out of the ordinary. Typical fisherman. However, their relationship is like a family: they eat together, and sometimes sleep together in the hall. When spoken, the volume is often enlarged and rough. But, that's how to communicate coastal communities.
Suatu kali, saya melihat empat lelaki berumur duduk melingkar, mengelilingi papan tebal seluas meja di cafe-cafe. Di atas papan itu, batu domino tersusun rapi, mengikuti angka serupa yang tercetak di atasnya. Dua nelayan memasang tali kapal di leher mereka. Di tali itu diikat beberapa barang bekas, seperti pelampung, botol aqua dan jaring bekas seukuran jambul pengantin wanita. Itulah hukuman bagi yang kalah. Semakin sering mereka kalah, jumlah tali yang melingkari leher mereka semakin banyak, dan barang bekas makin menggunung. Mereka kadang kesulitan bergerak. Begitulah cara mereka membunuh suntuk.
Bagi kalian pemburu ikan segar yang belum terkontaminasi dengan formalin dan kena es, pantai kampung Jawa ini pilihan yang sangat cocok untuk didatangi. Dengan uang Rp20 ribu, kalian sudah bisa membawa pulang setumpuk ikan segar. Namun, kalian harus cepat-cepat, biar tidak didahului pembeli lain. Sebab, kalau terlalu asik menawar, kalian justru tidak bisa membawa pulang ikan. Sistem berjualan di sana tidak sama dengan di pasar ikan Peunayong, di mana penjualnya cukup banyak, dan pilihan ikan pun beragam.
Once, I saw four boys sitting around, circling the thick boards as large as tables in cafes. On the board, the dominoes are neatly arranged, following the same numbers printed on it. Two fishermen put a rope on their necks. On the rope were tied up some used goods, such as floats, aqua bottles and used nail-sized bride net. That is the punishment for the losers. The more often they lose, the number of ropes that wrap around their necks is getting more and more and more goods are mounting. They sometimes struggle to move. That's how they kill all.
For those of you fresh fish hunters who have not been contaminated with formalin and hit the ice, this Javanese village beach is a perfect choice to visit. With the money of Rp20 thousand, you can bring home a stack of fresh fish. However, you must hurry, let not preceded by other buyers. Because, if it's too cool to bargain, you just can not bring home fish. The selling system is not the same as in the Peunayong (Chinatown in Banda Aceh) fish market, where the sellers are quite a lot, and the choice of fish varies.
Senin (5/3) sore, sebelum menjemput anak dari tempat pengajian di Masjid Raya Baiturrahman, saya sempatkan diri mengunjungi pantai ini. Saya berharap bisa melihat aktivitas para nelayan. Beruntung, saat saya tiba di sana, mereka sedang menarik pukat, dan pukatnya hampir mendekati bibir pantai. Saya pun mengabadikan momen tersebut dengan kamera smartphone.
Monday (5/3) afternoon, before picking up the child from the study at the Great Mosque Baiturrahman, I sempatkan myself to visit this beach. I hope to see the activities of the fishermen. Luckily, when I got there, they were pulling a net, and the trawler was nearing the shore. I also capture the moment with a smartphone camera.