FROM DREAMS TO REALITY! (surfing story)

When it comes to dreaming, I think I can say that I have mastered the process. The way of always imagining what could be, what will be. But that's the thing, dreams will just be dreams unless it is acted upon to turn into a something concrete. In this post, I want to focus on the feeling of how I achieved my long term dream of trying to surf. I wouldn't go into so much detail on how our trip went because that will definitely be on a separate post.

Honestly, I couldn't remember when the exact day I decided to play what is termed as The Sport of Kings, surfing. What I can recall though is once I discovered it online, I immediately fell in love with the idea of playing with the waves. Started searching local influences such as Jericho Rosales and his wife Kim Jones. I also started following Instagram pages ranging from places to people just like Hive account@vesselhostel and its owners Hive account@bujibrownlegs and Hive account@nikkidelapaz. Even discovered international influences like Hive account@thewaxhead from Australia, and the boys of Hive account@deustemple from Bali.

If you also follow most of these people online, you will notice one similarity they all have; they do longboard surfing what is also known as Logging. I got mesmerized on how chill longboard surfing is. I mean the smooth, slow gliding over an outstretched wave and them walking from back to front, giving out hang fives and hang tens. It jist looks really cool. Some of them would even do handstands! That was when I've made the decision to save up for a surf trip once I get a steady job, and actually make it a top priority on my list.

Back in college I would always think of myself riding my first wave, then falling off, trying to get one again and just get that sweet swell. And then finally, the day came when I got my first paying job. I was doing some budgeting on my expenses, from the household needs to my need-to-buy funds, and of course, setting aside some of it for that surf trip moola. I got into a conversation with some old friends that were planning on going to the famous surfing capital of the Philippines, Siargao, I intensely inserted myself on their topic and got to talking about booking cheap plane tickets going there. December 2017 came and BOOM we got ourselves promo round trip tickets to Siargao as low as P2,000, and it was for the next month, January 2018. The sudden rush of excitement just overwhelmed me with so much feelings that I can finally go and get to experience what I usually just see over Youtube videos and Instagram posts. It was definitely a genuine feeling of happiness.

The day came and it was on, feeling the gnarls (if there is such a word haha) all over my body. Of course as beginners we got basic lessons from a local trainer. It was kind of a "rushed" session since we were 3 newbies and had only 1 trainer, but he still managed to teach us how to pop up when getting the wave and keeping the balance; the basics. And as a usual result, the first few times were tough. Well I was expecting that it would be a tiring thing to do, with all the paddling out and the strenuous wipe outs and looking out for big rocks to avoid, but that's the exciting thing about it; you get to try and get that rhythm over and over again. I got a few long rides as time went on, but it were just for a couple of seconds; one of the best few seconds of my life though.

It took us 2 days after to get another surf session, and man was it majestic! It was like the very first time I tried standing up on the board again but this time with the expected balance needed. That session's definitely it! You know those movies where they show the parents' faces when they see their baby walk for the very first time? That was pretty much how it felt! Finally getting that wave and just relaxing and letting it carry you. I never had that kind of feeling before, where you just literally went with the flow both physically and mentally. The line locals usually tell you when you try surfing is "Relax lang.", and they were definitely right. Now I can't wait to book myself another trip there, and I bet it'll be the same feeling all over again.

Deuces