Apo Whang Od, known as "The Last Mambabatok", is the oldest surviving traditional tattoo artist from the Butbut tribe in Kalinga, Philippines.
Apo Whang Od is already 101 years in age but still continues her craft as a tattoo artist. She has been using the traditional tattooing method since she was 15. A few years back, there have been a call to declare her as a national artist here in the Philippines.
Up until now, traditional tattoo culture is being practice in the province of Kalinga in the northern part of the Philippines. Many of the traditional tattoo artists have passed away and it was Apo Whang Od who kept the culture alive, thus the nickname "The Last Mambabatok".
Batok
Batok is a traditional hand-tapped tattooing method using thorn, charcoal ink and a bamboo stick. The tattoo is done by continuously hammering the ink into the skin using the thorn from a pomelo tree.
Back in the day, tribal warriors or headhunters of the tribe are inked to symbolized their bravery/courage. While tattoos display beauty and elegance for tribal women. Now that the headhunters are gone, the tattoo culture is now open to anyone who wishes to have them.
Fortunately, Whang Od has been training her granddaughters to continue the culture. Grace and Elyang, (Apo's great granddaughters) have inherited the craft and have been tattooing visitors for a few years now. While Apo Whang Od is still highly capable of doing design tattoos, she relegated herself to just doing her signature design which is a three dotted design and leave the rest of the tribal tattoo designs to Grace and Elyang.
For a few years now, visitors(Filipinos and other nationalities) have been flocking to Buscalan, Kalinga to get their tattoos from the legendary artist. Below are some quick reminders on things to remember when going to the tattoo village.
How to Get There:
Topload jeepney ride to Tinglayan, Kalinga
The travel to Buscalan is no easy task. The bus ride from Manila (Victory Liner Kamias) could take approximately around 8-10 hours. From there, you need to ride a jeepney for another 3 hours up to Tinglayan Turning Point. Motorcycles or "habal-habal" awaits from the turning point and then start the trek to the village.
The trek could take around an hour or 2 depending on your fitness level.
Where to Stay:
There are no hotels in the village but locals allow for visitor to stay at their home for a price. The hosts will also provide food for you but don't expect much since this is still an isolated village up in the mountains. Visitors are also encourage to bring something like treats/candies for the children when getting there. This is not required but the locals would really appreciate it.
Moving forward...
As for the future of this traditional tattoo culture, it's safe to say that it is in great hands now. Many locals are now learning the craft and they are also offering tattoo services to the visitors. We can all hope that the tradition would continue and people would start going there not just because of Apo Whang Od, but rather to experience the tattoo village itself.
