When I first began planning my trip to Machu Picchu, I intended to book all of my own tickets and hotels. On the advice of a friend, I decided to suspend my research and allow a travel agency to make all of the arrangements for me. With the number of connections and admission tickets required for this type of tour, I considered the advice to be sound. My original plan was to stay two nights at the El Albergue Hotel in Ollantaytambo, on either side of my trip to Machu Picchu. The company I booked with put me in another excellent hotel near Urubamba called Casa Andina Private Collection. However, a twist of fate landed me back on the doorstep of El Albergue. I guess a visit with this hotel was in the cards.
On the day I was supposed to take Peru Rail to Aguas Calientes, there was a rock slide that covered the tracks. After waiting approximately two hours for word on the condition of the tracks, Peru Rail cancelled the trains. I was waiting for my train near the entrance to the El Albergue, where I had taken lunch the day before. During that lunch visit, I had asked to look at the rooms in the event I had any friends who might visit Ollantaytambo. I was impressed by the rustic charm of the rooms and felt a bit disappointed that I missed the opportunity to stay at this hotel. I was considering heading back to Cuzco when it was announced that no trains would be running until the following day. Instead, I ended up switching my train to the following morning. Although this created a very tight schedule for me to make my international flight, I decided I could not get this close to Machu Picchu only to turn around and go home. After switching my train tickets, I booked room number sixteen at the El Albergue.
There were plenty of other calls I needed to make in conjunction with my disrupted plans. I needed to contact the tour company to see about switching my airline tickets and holding my hotel reservation in Cuzco for the following night. I was assisted in completing these distance reservation by Vicki and Natalia, who were working the reception desk. The willingness of the El Albergue staff to assist us in salvaging our vacation along with their outgoing personalities endeared us to this rustic hotel. It mirrored the family charm that this villa exudes. From the comfortable restaurant to hotel rooms that feel like an extension of a large family home, our visit was met at every turn by superior hospitality. My wife, a native of Seattle, was even more pleased when she learned that the owner hails from the same area.
The El Albergue offers free wifi in the rooms. If you have a laptop, it is a good idea to bring it with you, if you have room in your luggage. The rooms at the El Albergue do not have a television. While that might be a negative for some, it adds to the sense of seclusion and tranquility that emanates from the lush vegetation and thick gardens throughout the property. Our room was located near the very back of the hotel with an exceptional view of the mountains from the front and side windows of our room. The large bed was a comfortable respite from a hectic day of revised reservations and unmitigated stress. The spacious room had subtle gestures like the home-grown artwork on the walls and a tall vase of fresh flowers on the table. The room was a peaceful oasis in the midst of yet another setback on our journey to Machu Picchu (this followed a robbery, shortly after our arrival in Peru that included trips to several police stations, the US Consulate and Peruvian Immigration).
The price of a room at this charming hotel is well within reason. The rooms run between seventy and eighty dollars and include a free breakfast in the morning. The breakfast included eggs to order, fresh fruit, yogurt and an exceptional cup of coffee. My wife and I booked an early train to Machu Picchu, so our breakfast was very close to the 5:00 AM opening for the hotel restaurant. The strong cup of cappuccino was just what I needed to get my blood pumping for a day full of adventure. We did run into issues with our credit card working at the hotel, which was a recurring issue for us during our trip. However, I had plenty of cash on hand to pay the relatively inexpensive hotel bill. If you can stay at a charming country hotel and have a nice hot breakfast in the morning for under one hundred dollars, you have accomplished something.
The location of the El Albergue is a mixed bag. It is located at the Peru Rail station, which is about a five to ten minute walk from the heart of Ollantaytambo. Of course, you can take the motorcycle taxi up the street for just one sole, so you are really not that secluded from the rest of the city, which is not that large to begin with. There are plenty of restaurants in walking distance to the hotel, to include the hotel restaurant. The advantage of this location was our proximity to the train in the morning. Rather than arriving a half hour early to clear the gate at the train station, we simply ate a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, walked outside, and boarded the train. We were able to wait almost until the last minute to leave the hotel. Having a room at the back of the hotel, combined with a limited train schedule, early departure time and fatigue from the day before, I slept like a baby. I did not hear any train activity during the night. I don’t know how that would compare to someone closer to the front of the hotel, light sleepers or those with later departures. The trains start running around 5:00 AM.
Very seldom do I find myself overwhelmed by the hospitality of a hotel. Yet, during my trip to Peru, it happened twice. The first experience was with JW Marriott in Lima, who went out of their way to assist me following a robbery that happened on my way to the hotel. The second experience was with El Albergue. To think I almost missed the opportunity to stay at this charming hotel in Ollantaytambo. I would have missed the exceptional hospitality of the friendly staff, a charming and comfortable room, rustic, scenic surroundings and a delicious breakfast with an awesome cup of cappuccino. The price was right, the location excellent for catching the early train to Machu Picchu and the overall experience unforgettable. I am especially indebted to the exceptional service provided by reception. They helped alleviate an otherwise stressful situation. Their gentle gracious assistance will not soon be forgotten. If not for the staff, I may have given this hotel a four star rating. But whatever minor short-comings this hotel might have, they were quickly forgotten with my interactions with the hotel employees. I would highly recommend that you seek this hotel out as a watering hole on your journey to Machu Picchu. You won’t regret it. Five stars out of five.
All photos, except for the banner, are my own. They may be used with prior permission. The banner is a photo taken from the hotel website.