If you plan to visit the Inca ruins at Machu Picchu you have two choices. You can either hike the Inca Trail, which will take several days, or you can ride in style on Peru Rail. Peru Rail is operated by Orient Express, which also runs the Sanctuary Lodge located at Machu Picchu. The prices to travel to Machu Picchu by Peru Rail vary greatly depending on the type of train you opt to take.
For my visit to Machu Picchu, I opted for the Expedition Train. This train felt more luxurious than your average commuter train, but not necessarily high end. The train featured broad windows along the sides of the train, as well as overhead windows that provide an enveloping sense of awe as the train traverses the rough terrain between the Sacred Valley and Aguas Calientes, which is the train station that services Machu Picchu. The Expedition Train has several daily departures. The price of the trip depends on your departure time. The tickets run between $33 and $43 each direction, depending on the time of departure selected. The Expedition Train has luggage racks near the entrance to the train for over-sized luggage. The seating is arranged with sets of four seats facing across a small table. The train includes a light snack and beverage service. Other snacks are available for sale along with collectible items that Peru Rail hawks as you approach Aguas Calientes. This train offers comfort along with exceptional value and is probably the best bang for your buck.
The Vistadome Train has several daily departures, beginning as early as 7:05 AM. This train is a step up from the Expedition train. Like the Expedition Train, the Vistadome features panoramic views from overhead windows. The train features upgraded quality, with rich wood trim and increased comfort. The seats in the Expedition Train were comfortable enough, but leg room can be an issue. The Vistadome appears to offer a bit more space. Tickets on the Vistadome run between $49 and $60 each direction, depending on the time of departure. The Vistadome Train also has a package deal that includes a lunch buffet at Sanctuary Lodge while you are visiting Machu Picchu. With the added lunch buffet, the package runs between $77 and $88 dollars. The buffet is basically $28 more than the basic ticket. The Sanctuary Lodge, run by Orient Express, is “stupid” expensive. For far less than $28 you can get an exceptional meal in the town of Aguas Calientes.
The Autowagon Train is another “step up” train from the Expedition Train. It departs once daily from Ollantaytambo. This train will set you back $60 one way. The interior includes the panoramic windows and rich leather seats. The fare also includes a breakfast service along with live entertainment. The train includes a fashion show, which includes an opportunity to purchase alpaca products during the trip.
The Hiram Bingham Train does not run year round. You will need to check the dates of your travel to see if this option is available to you. The train also sells out months in advance, so it is a good idea to make your reservations as soon as you are certain you will be traveling. This train is at the high end of the luxury spectrum. For $299, you will be treated to apertifs as you board the train. Service includes lunch, wine, live entertainment, transport to Machu Picchu, tea time at the Sanctuary Lodge and a gourmet dinner on the return trip. This train features two facing seats on one side of the train and doubles on the other side. The seating offers plenty of leg room beneath a table suitable for eating a quality meal. If you feel the need to travel in style, the Hiram Bingham Train is probably right up your alley. I would prefer an earlier train with less service with the option of finding my own lunch. It is a much cheaper option.
Peru Rail also offers service to Lake Titicaca on a train called the Andean Explorer. The Andean Explorer runs between Cusco and Puno at Lake Titicaca. The scenic ride takes ten hours each direction. The cost of this train is $220 each direction. The train does not run every day. Between November and March, the train runs on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.
Tickets
Tickets can be purchased using the Peru Rail website located at perurail.com. You can print your boarding passes from the website. Two copies of each ticket will print on each page along with your departure time, seat assignment and train number. The top portion of the boarding pass will be presented to the ticket agent as you board the train. The bottom half is for your own records. You can also purchase tickets through travel agencies as well as at the ticketing counter located at each of the train stations. If you are attempting to get seats on a restricted train, such as the Hiram Bingham, the sooner you purchase your tickets the better.
Passports
In order to board the train, you will need to present your passport number along with your boarding pass. The boarding pass will also request your passport number when you book your tickets. It is a good idea to make copies of your passports in case the originals are lost or stolen. You will need to present your passport at your hotels, the train station and for admission into Machu Picchu. Keep them in a safe place, preferably on your person rather than in luggage or handbags.
Delays
January and February are rainy season in the Sacred Valley. Heavy rains often create rockslides and other hazardous conditions that prevent the trains from running. On the day I was supposed to travel, my train was cancelled. Luckily, I had one extra day built into my itinerary. I was able to rebook the train on the following day and complete my journey. Peru Rail will assist in rebooking in the event of a rockslide or other unforeseen circumstances. Otherwise, you need to provide at least 24 hours’ notice to change your tickets. I waited for two hours in a disorganized line at the Peru Rail ticketing area on the day of my train cancellation. I later discovered I could have changed the tickets online. Either way, be aware that delays are not uncommon during this time of year.
Bi-Modal Transportation
Between January 2 and April 15th, Peru Rail operates on a Bi-Modal Transportation schedule. From Cusco, the Peru Rail train traverses areas that become dangerous to navigate during the rainy season. For this reason, the train chooses to operate a split combination of bus and rail. If you leave or return to Cusco, you will be required to take a bus between Ollantaytambo and Cusco. I departed from Ollantaytambo by train, but booked my return all the way to Cuzco. The bus ride was an arduous journey of two hours by bus. The buses are comfortable, but the roads are unforgiving. A combination of traffic and road conditions make the trip seem longer than it should. This combination will add at least an hour to your overall journey…something to consider if you are working within time constraints. You do have an option of taking the train back to Ollantaytambo and paying a taxi fifty to seventy soles (around twenty dollars) to drive you directly back to Cuzco. The taxis will be waiting at the train station en masse.
Language Considerations
For visitors waiting on the platform for their train, the announcements are made in both Spanish and English. However, the speakers are not very clear. I was struggling to understand the English language announcements. On the train, the announcements are also made in both English and Spanish. The announcements on the train were much easier to understand. The attendants working on the train were also fluent enough in English that I never had any difficulty in communicating with them.
My overall impression with Peru rail was favorable. The trip was comfortable and the train was in a good state of repair. The Expedition train seemed to be reasonably priced, considering it is the only way for visitors to get to Aguas Calientes without hiking in. The rockslide was beyond Peru Rail’s ability to control. They cleared the track in a reasonable time, with full service returning the following day. My only complaint was with the disorganized lines for rebooking tickets. After waiting nearly two hours in line, I was told I needed to be in the other line. I was in the line for refunds, the line next to me was for rebooking. Luckily, the guy standing next to me in the rebooking line wanted a refund. We switched places without creating any angst among the other people waiting in line. Also, the buses do not have restrooms. That surprised me for a bus that takes more than two hours to reach its destination. Luckily, I went before I left the train station to board the buses. If you are going to Machu Picchu, you will be dealing with Peru Rail at some point. They run a tight operation unless things “get off track.” If things go sideways, the tight organization skids into chaos.
All photos are my own. They may be reproduced with prior permission.