For years I deliberately left Austria off the list of countries I should visit. The reason was unclear, somewhere between "I use to live there' and 'It is way too expensive' for my Tent & Bicycle tours. It is even more unclear after I spent some time in those green fields and enjoyed the hospitality of Austria in last May.
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The reason to visit Austria was a surprise, more than a good one. It was excellent, best news I could receive and true happiness. My best friend was getting married, and there was only one man in the whole world he would want to be his best man - me. We know each other since we were 4 years old and we went together through some serious shit. There is only one man who knows all my secrets, only one man who can see me crying, only one man I will call when I really need help - him! And vice versa - it's a man I spent the endless nights talking with when he was happy, when he was worried, when he needed time to think, or when he needed someone to laugh with.
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Life separated us for thousands of miles, but never separated our true friendship. Some years ago, he decided to stay in Austria, and I decided to return to Serbia. Both decisions were because of love. And both love stories were unsuccessful. But that's another story, let's pretend that it is not important for the whole picture that we end up without soulmates at the beginning of this story.
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When he showed up at my door, out of nowhere, in the company of a beautiful lady with a shy smile, I knew that he is up to something. She did not know him so good at that moment, and she was sure that they are in Serbia just because he had to finish some bureaucracy papers. And while they are there, it would be nice to visit his best friend and say Hi. I wasn't too surprised when he proposed her out of nowhere that night in front of me, but she was. It was February 14th, Valentine Day. Like I said - I know that old romantic soul very, very good. No, I did not cry, why do you ask... damn allergies.
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Ok, this story is getting out of hands... Hallstatt! Get it together man!
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So, I had good reason to visit Austria, and I had couple unused free days - so, naturally, I created a plan! I will go to some beautiful Austrian area before the wedding to relax and enjoy. After some thinking, the decision was made - I will visit Upper Austria and ride legendary Salzkammergut route. That route is 350 kilometres of cycling paradise around some of the most beautiful lakes in Salzburg area. Easy enough to be proper enjoyment, and hard enough not to be confused with walk in the park - the Salzkammergut route was perfect.
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After some digging, I found excellent and very affordable accommodation in that area, and somewhere at the end of April, I arrived in Upper Austria. The day was beautiful, the smell of spring was in the air, the temperature was around 15 Celsius degrees, all fields were green and my morale was very high. While tasting local schnapps with my hosts, they mention that 'It smells like snow', but I was sure that this is some strange Austrian joke and went to bed full of energy and dedication to start the next day early in the morning with one long ride.
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In the morning, my hosts had an opportunity to learn couple very bad Serbian words, while I was helping them to clean snow which somehow materialized from thin air during the night.
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Since I really didn't want to ride on snow, after very strong breakfast, I decided to hike a little. Legendary Hallstatt was only 10 - 15 km away, depending on route, and my idea was to hike some distance, at least to the lake. I was sure that I am not ready to hike 30 km in a single day, especially on snow, so I decided that I will control myself and hike only 10-15 km in total. Strong decision!
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So I gear up, put my snow boots and went into one easy hike. Somewhere at the beginning of the route, I found couple Mountain Rangers and they informed me that:
- track is closed
- they obviously cannot prevent me from going on the track when they are not around, for example in next 5 minute when they go further
- if I fall and call them for help, they will have to charge me a fine
- if I do not fall and get to the Hallstatt, I must try local coffee which is served with beer
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I solemnly declared that I will not hike that closed path, and that my decision is just to walk a little, and that they do not have to worry, and that they may leave me there as soon as possible because it is getting really cold and I have to move to warm myself, and... so they left...
All rangers in the world are the same - if they like you, they will be blind and deft to little mischiefs. Offcourse, patch od Serbian Mountain Rangers on my jacket helps a lot.
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So, I went to a little walk, nowhere near that closed track. It was boring and there is nothing I can say about it, so this is the end of this blog entry...
Almost...
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Quite surprised, a few hours later, I watched Hallstatt from above. Not only that I hiked to Hallstatt, I did it through the mountain and that closed track. I really do not know what happened. It must be that Austrian schnapps they give me after the breakfast. Whatever was the reason, I was there and I decided to find some pub to drink coffee and think about the purpose of life universe and everything.
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While ordering coffee, which came with delicious local beer, I thought about the amazing path I just crossed. To be honest, during summer it is very easy and fun path. But on slippery snow, it was demanding and I had to remind myself to keep concentration high, which was not the easy task. The damn view was amazing! Even though I had very low visibility and heavy snow, I was aware that I rarely hiked more beautiful area. It was stunning!
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After tasting local coffee, which came with beer, I judged that my knees are holding together and that I may be able to hike back. Actually, I saw another path which seemed a little bit easier and more secure but offered a different view of the area. So I decided - what the hell, let's hike back.
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To be honest, on last five miles, I almost regretted that decision. My knees were on fire, and they were broken and fixed couple times. My doctor was very precise what he is going to cut out of my body if he sees me again, and since I do like that part of me (it gives me a lot of fun and joy) I was careful and slow. And I loved every single step and every single view that was in front of me.
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So, should you hike that path? For sure - if there is no snow. During winter, it is not advisable if you are not experienced. I also heard that it is forbidden during winter. But, even if you have to use two bags of frozen peas on your knees after the hike - it is worth.
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Hallstatt is amazing little town, and hike the mountain up to this amazing town was pure joy. The town itself is so beautiful that when you see it, you can understand why it is among most visited towns in whole Austria.
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I know I didn't write anything about Hallstatt. There is a good reason for that - I did ride the Salzkammergut route last May, few days after this hike. I did visit Hallstatt again at the end of that course. So, one day, I will write about Hallstatt properly. There is so much about this town, it deserves a separate text. Plus, I still have to be a best man in one wedding. Until then, enjoy the snowy path to the amazing Hallstatt.
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I hope you will enjoy in these photos as much as I enjoyed taking them.
This blog entry is part of My Travel Blog series.
I have many more travel stories in my bag, so stay tuned.
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