The thing about an adventure is you never know it until you survive and look back at it wondering how you did it! Trekking all the way to a village called Pinni and returning through the trails was one such adventure we did in Himachal.
I heard about this village from my visit to Malana. There were around 1000 villagers from Pini who visited Malana with their deity. They explained Pini to be this beautiful village I must visit. Moreover, I heard from someone who explored different parts of Himachal that he once found this beautiful village on top of the hill with an amazing view of Parvati valley. After he left Himachal, he found the name of the place using maps and send to us. It was Pini village.
That was it! Me and another traveler, from Italy and a cannabis researcher, decided to trek to this village. Our original plan was to go to a place called Sisu valley to see snowfall. However, we heard the roads might get closed unexpectedly. So, our trek to Pini started at 8.30 AM with few information from other travelers.
We decided to trek all the way up with Google maps and AllTrails app for help. We were told to cross a bridge and a waterfall. Well, we realized it wasn't that easy within an hour of our trek.
We came across very few houses on the way and a lot of farm lands. At one point, there were lemon trees with huge lemons. While we were comparing our faces to those lemons we met two farmers. They said it wasn't the lemon we use for lemonade. They're called Galgala or Gamru in local language. They're mainly used to make pickles. They also confirmed the route to Pini is this way and it would take us a long time to reach.
We also met kids going to school walking through these trails. They were happy for us to click their photos. They said they're from a village called Fagda or Phagda. From there it was an empty trail that felt like it leads to nowhere. But, at around 11, we could see a village far rom us.
Pahgda Village
The village we saw on another hillside was the Phagda village where the kids we met on the way were from. We reached Phagda village at 11.30 AM. It was a beautiful place with farm lands and houses. We started to feel hungry as well. But, there were no place to eat. So, we continued our trek.
The Orange Landscape
Even though we were lost most of the time, the landscape was very different from what we were expecting. Since it was Autumn, the colours were so vivid. The whole valley was covered in dried up grass that gave an orange hue and a velvet-effect with the wind.
However, we got lost after a point. We were told there would be ladies carrying wood from the forest but the whole place was empty since people went to Malana for the festivities. Sometime, it felt we were just going nowhere. The maps didn't help either. We were clueless most of the time.
Cannabis Farm
Then we came across concerted stairs and decided to take them even though it went to a different direction. By the title you might have already guessed it- Yes, it took us to a isolated cannabis farm.
Did I tell you I was travelling with a Cannabis researcher who did his masters studying the DNA of these plants? Yes, that's a little nerdy and I got a lecture on the type of plants and their propagation and more.
I might say, I was surprised to see such a place. The plants were already harvested. These plants smelled really good and I might have tried rubbing to see what comes out of it. We spent some time there taking photos and decided to get back to the trails.
Our pants were covered with a kind of thorn from the wild plants. We spend few minutes to get rid of them since they scratched us pretty bad.
While we were thinking of continuing the trail, there came a lady who confirmed we were on the right track. Then she disappeared so fast. The locals here walk so fast. We could see a village far and across the hill. So, we were confused at first how we would reach there. But, there was this waterfall like place, which was also damaged due to recent floods.
We went behind those rocks and crossed the waterfall. This route is not visible outside and hence the whole confusion.
Thala Pini
After a few minutes of hike from the waterfall, we came across this green patch of land. This piece of land was way different from the rest of the places we walked through. There were ferns, it was cold and the whole place looked so different.
There was a bridge which confirmed we reached the village. The place we reached is called Thala-Pini, a part of the village Pini. It was just a small hike from there and we were excited for two reasons.
- We made it Afterall!
- Food!
The houses here had a slate roof. It looked so vintage and pretty. Plus, the whole village seemed empty since the people here went to Malana. There were only a few old people doing their daily chores.
It was 12.30 PM and we were starving after all the hiking. We asked them for the food options available and they directed us to a stationary store where we could get packed items. Fortunately, the shop was open and she was about to close it.
There was nothing satisfying to eat and we were really hungry. So, we asked her if she could cook for us.
Her only condition was to follow her to her house. We gladly accepted that and started walking. Again, the place changed to look more like a forest. We were now moving away from the main village. The trail took us through a patch of greenery with tall trees. Her house is the prettiest place I've ever been so far. They had a view of the village with the frames of trees.
She treated us with mint tea and asked us to rest while she cooks. By that time, her son woke up from sleep. He was thrilled to play with his new guests. For us, it was a huge relief to find a place to sit and relax for some time.
Within few minutes, she made us kichdi and served with a spinach curry. It was so good. More importantly, her hospitality was so soothing. We spent some more time talking to her and playing with Rithwik, her little son.
She showed us around the crops they have in their land. They have a farm land near their place and they grow vegetables there.
By this time, we were pretty happy with all the experience we had so far. After walking around for some more time, we decided to go to the main Pini village. First, we had to reach to this temple and from there we had to continue hiking to reach the village. The whole trail had apple farms and other vegetables on both sides.
Pini Village
Pini Village felt like we were on top of the mountain. There was only sky visible from there. But, it was beautiful. The houses here were made of wood and felt like a scene from the show Vikings.
The temples were the center of the village. The devata here is Bagasidh. She is a female goddess who is also considered the sister of Jamlu rishi in Malana.
Since it was already 4PM, we had to rush back before it gets dark. We were told there's a road where we could get taxis. But, since there were no men in the village, it was difficult to get someone to drive. At this point, we were pretty scared how to go back.
We decided to walk anyway and see where we reach before it's dark. The people in Pini were really sweet and asked us to stay for a few days, especially after this long trek. We then found a road where the kids were going back from school.
Trail back through Sharni
The road was covered in dust and there was wind as well. We decided to not stop anywhere for photos and videos since the sun had started set already. But, we couldn't get over the view during this time. It was nothing less than magical to watch the valley glowing!
However, we were hopeless on our plan to walk back since the road went far till a place called Bunter. Luckily, we found a few villagers who helped us with a route through the valley. We also got a cute little guide to show us the way. It was a paved trail that took to a bridge. Once we cross that bridge, we would reach the road where we can get a taxi.
It took us more than hour to hike down this trail. It was a very steep trail and with no one around. Our faces reflected hopelessness and worry till we could hear the sound of Parvati river at a distance.
Seeing the bridge across the river was bliss! We made it just in time before it was too dark. And got our ride back. The place we got to was called Sharni.
The Time and Coincidences
Looking back at the whole experience, we could never thank the universe for the luck we had with everything. The lady who gave us food said she never comes to the shop. Her husband called her to get some papers from the shop and that was the only reason she was there for 15 minutes. If we were late for even few minutes, we would have missed her.
The same with the trail to Sharni. If we didn't ask the villagers, we would have never known that route and we would've never reached bunter either. From getting lost to reaching Pinni and the way back, everything was perfectly timed and adventurous!
If you're visiting Kullu in Himachal, I would highly recommend adding Pini to your list. It is largely unexplored, clean and has an amazing view.
On map: [//]:# (!pinmapple 31.98499 lat 77.20852 long Pini d3scr)