And finally, it happened. The dream come true! I have waited since the day I started riding to make it to the Himalayas! one of the dream destination for the bikers around the world. Not just because of its just pure beauty but also for the fact that it's not an easy one! Everyone loves challenges and me for one was not an exception. And the Himalayas offer all of that.
You will get the hint of mountains when you reach almost near to Manali. And that's when it occurred to me that the mountains I have seen back in the south are nothing to be compared with the mighty Himalayas.
Flashback to the start and planning of the ride. In the beginning I wanted to do the entire ride alone, However considering this is the first time and not knowing the terrains very well thought I will stick with my group who also planned this year at least till Leh from Chandigarh. So the planning started almost 4 months back, while my group booked flight tickets for two weeks gap, I did for 3 weeks eyeing for the Spiti Valley. Who is a better person other than Phanikar to know about the routes and stuff, who happily agreed to meetup and explain the ride routes and things to Carry. Who also got me in touch with Sandeep who in turn offered me both CEAT tyres for free! It was a great relief as I was already running low on money and didn't really wanted to take on those offroad on my Michelin pilot street radial. Big thanks to him. So one month before I changed my tyres did some offroad to Bilikal betta and It was doing all better. Canute is the guy who master planned the ride until Leh so I did not have to put any effort there.
Needed few more things and that's when my friends came for help. Nishant gave his tail bag, Fareed his rain coats(didn't really wanted to buy one as I would never use it here),Vinay BM and VBZ gave their 64gb memory cards, Vikram gave his point and shoot sony cybershot camera. Big thanks to all of them! So all set for the ride we shipped our bikes from Bangalore to Chandigarh about 15 days prior to the ride using VRL logistics.
They are using pallets now a days which really look great and kept our bikes intact with no damage. Only one RE had bit damaged mudguard because of the tail panier as it wouldn't fit on the pallet which he got fixed within few minutes in a local garage. They have also kept us updated even though 8 of us kept calling them all the time. Bikes reached within 10 days and it was kept until we collected it on 3rd sept.
Here is the complete ride map.
Stitched about 235 clips from this 23 day ride and made this video.
Ride details :
Day 1 :Flight to Chandigarh - Chandigarh to Bhilaspur
locked and loaded. 100kms from Chandigarh towards Manali for today. Vrl did not broke my expectations. Except for one bike all were in good condition. One of the bikes had its mud guard bent not sure how but got it fixed in no time. Suresh Bimla uncle of VRL was so generous to bring us tea, cold water and all the help we needed. All for no expectation of money. Kudos to him! Good start for the trip.
Day 2 :Bilaspur to Manali
1st look of valleys and hills. On the way from Bilaspur to Manali. Have done many hilly roads in the south but this is whole new level. Beautiful valleys and huge mountains. Excited to see what Himalayas has to offer us! The weather was super hot until few km to Manali. Finally some chill weather now. I guess its uphill from here onwards.
Day 3 :Manali to Jispa
Got the permit to Rohtang pass by 11am and it was late noon when we actually started the ride. Its the Rohtang pass introduced the beauty of Himalayas as well as the scary part of it. Ascending the roads were all good but descending was bad. And then cloud was covering slowly as the sun goes down. We were literally running away from the clouds. **** the pluviophile shit, I was no way going to get drenched in that cold weather. When I looked back at the cloud in the rear view mirror saw this amazing rainbow and I had to stop even though its drizzling.
Day 4 :Jispa to Rumtse
The actual plan was to ride until Leh or Upshi however we underestimated the road and the weather. Started the early morning at 5 and first obstacle was the freezing cold weather. The chilling weather tore through the gloves and our hands started feeling numb after a while. Many times I had to warm it up by holding it against the engine. Also, the altitude took the toll on us as we had to pass through passes high up to 17000 foot. The road till pang was absolutely messed up. We decided to stop at Rumsey and by then I had the slight fever. Army doctor from the nearby camp visited us and gave tablets for everyone. Next day we were ready to go to Leh.
Day 5 :Rumtse to Leh
Recovered from fever by morning took the time to reach Leh. Roads were pretty good and no passes to cross through. Military base camps start from here. Duke 200 stole the show by needing no extra fuel at all. Gave me more than 400 km on a full tank! Though I was carrying around 7 liters of extra fuel just to be on the safer side.
Day 6 :Buffer day, down with AMS, Rest
down with AMS(acute mountain sickness). Not sure if I underestimated the weather and terrain or I was just an unlucky fellow. For today its just bed rest inside the hotel Gonna gather all the energy and hit the road soon!
Day 7 :More rest, fixing Bike.
not sure if the chain but there was a ticking sound coming from my bike rear all the time. When showed it to a mechanic he said it might be just because of the dust. The bike was slowly adopting to the colors of mountains so had to bring her back to her original color. After the soapy bath, I couldn't notice that sound like before. More rest for the day and city stroll. Haven't noticed single duke 200 so far but did saw two duke 390s.
Ps: airtel 4g is a big sham. Forget 4g, let alone 2g doesn't work straight. Even the call drops all the times. If I keep the data on few of notifications will load overnight.
Day 8 :Leh to Magnetic Hill, Hall of Fame, failed attempts to Khardungla,Chuchote
Mohan who was riding all the way from Bangalore to Leh joined me for the day and we planned to the highest motorable road in the world. Aka khardung la. However due to Ladakh marathon, it was closed for the entire day so we planned to explore other places around. First was magnetic hills. I was skeptical about this place and to my expectation, we didn't notice any gravity defying phenomena at all. Next stop at the hall of fame. One should visit this place to see how our soldiers got through wars with enemies and the extreme nature. Those stories should be heard by everyone. Their sacrifices for your better tomorrow. Evening we went to Chuchot to witness double hump camels but no luck there too. However, it was fruitful day and got my confidence and energy back.
Day 9 :Leh to Khardungla top to Pangong Tso
khardung la was pending from the previous day. We started early morning around 7 to ascend and it was freezing as hell. The aspida ares gloves are not for the winter weather. Bought a local riding gloves for 200 bucks from previous day which helped a lot. Reached the world's highest motorable road in no time and spent some time there. Next part is to ride to Pangong Tso lake to catch up with the rest of the group. Reached well in time, got the few glimpses of the blue lake before it became dark.
Day 10:pangong Tso to Leh
Couldn't sleep much in the tent with chilling windy weather and amazing sight when I came out of the tent at 6.00 am. Spent more than an hour lazing around the lake, contemplating and we returned to Leh by evening. However, we thought of going to Upshi to continue towards Manali, however Mohan's accelerator cable got cut in the middle so we had to come to leh for that spare. Seems like Leh isn't letting us go! And to my bad fever crept in the late evening.
Day 11:Leh to Upshi
I didn't want to stay inside room for one more day. My group dropped the plan of riding back to Chandigarh due to the road conditions and they were shipping the bikes directly from Leh to Bangalore and then take the flight to Delhi. As I was still suffering from fever but also wanted to move from the Leh city, I and Mohan decided to take a head start for the next day ride. So we rode from Leh to Upshi and found a stay. Went to the army camp and took another pill gave by the army Doctors assistant.
Day 12:Upshi to Sarchu
Was not sure whether fever was there or not hard to tell in that cold weather but was feeling bit weak. However, I wanted to ride. Felt little better than before but wasn't very confident that I will pull it through the day. Didn't tell Mohan all that and was ready to ride. Thanks to him that he was even ready to go back to Leh with me if I need more days to recover. Though fear of getting the fever back again was there all day kept that thought aside for then. Early morning was cold as hell and even with winter gloves with warmees inside wasn't enough. Mohan did a jugaad of putting two plastic which actually helped. I was wearing surgical gloves(another jugaad) inside the winter gloves. We did Tanglanla pass, the 2nd highest motorable road in no time. This pic was taken just while getting down from the pass while I was waiting for Mohan. The plan was to reach Jispa and we were almost on schedule. However unthinkable happened! We were about 20km after sarchu and about some 70kms to Jispa there was a massive landslide. A large boulder of more than the size of the road was on the road! People already started working to explode with dynamites and got to know from them that it will take minimum 6 to 7 hours to clean it up. We had no choice but to ride back again 20kms to stay in Sarchu. Worst is that 20km was so bad that it took more than 45 minutes. Sarchu is one of the high altitude places and not recommended to stay. But we had no other choice but to find a tent. We found one, night was cold as ****, hoping to get the road gets cleared by morning went for sleep! Btw to my relief no sign of fever!!
Day 13:Sarchu to Manali
With bit struggle, the great mountain Odyssey comes to an end! By the time we came out from the tents at Sarchu it was freezing! People were already started moving as the road got cleared by 12 in the midnight. Thanks to BRO (border road organization) who is very quick in taking actions in such a treacherous roads. Crossed Jispa by noon and reached the Rohtang pass before 4. Clouds were forming and were giving scary look to the pass. Took one last look at the Spiti valley diversion, made a pact with myself that I am gonna come back for it someday in near future. During the course of 16-day ride I had dropped my bike 3 times, not crash but letting them down. People who have ridden fully loaded bikes would know its quite a common thing to do. The one near sarchu was little bad and my handlebar is bent. I could ride but uncomfortably. So first thing is to fix it in the Mandi service station. Counting the days n possibility of unpredictable health skipping spiti for good. Mohan has separate plans from here on and so have I. We will be riding solo from here onwards.
With all this worst to extreme worst roads, the KTM didn't even break once. It was only chain making sound initially and after I started cleaning and lubing the chain every day, even that's gone now. At high altitudes due to low oxygen was not getting enough pickup which is unlike of KTMs but it was ahead of any other bikes. Massive respect for this piece of machine. So a street bike goes to the Himalayas and passes the test with flying colors!!
Day 14:Manali to New Delhi to Ambala
Now the mountain Odyssey is over I'm heading back home. The first thing I did was went to ktm service center in Mandi and got the gear lever fixed. The handlebar isn't that bent so he said its up to me to replace. Thought ill jugaad few more days as I already got used to it. L
Cleaned and lubed chain but that dusty road it didn't last long. It was all ghat roads today and I was missing my Michelin tyres because in the current one I cant lean much. Skipped the city Chandigarh and found shelter in Ambala.
Day 15:Ambala to Agra, Tajmahal
Totally it was a productive day from things getting done to covering enough miles. Started early morning and first stop was at Karol bagh to change the tyres back to Michelin pilot street radial. You can see in the pic below. Met a youtuber from Delhi named 'Delhi Bikerboi' and he took me rounds around Delhi sightseeing. Took few pics around India gate we parted ways and I hit the Yamuna express highway towards Agra. Below pic was taken there. Reached Agra by evening and found a nice place, thanks to goibibo. Quickly went to see Tajmahal however ticket counter got closed by then. Seeing my pale face, an old cop called me by his side and pushed a ticket in my hand! What a nice chap. I think I was the last one to enter however got enough time to go around and take pics and videos.
Day 16:Agra to Narsingpur
Nothing much about the day other than just revving the machine at the speed of 90 to 100 all time until some cow comes on the road. I guess transport authority should uninstall all the cow speed breakers from highways too. Also, watch out for people! Had some nice chit chats at every pit stop, one fellow even fried few corns for free. MP is surprisingly green all the way unlike I imagined it. Roads are amazing in UP and bit bad in MP.
Day 17:Narsingpur to Hyderabad
Around 780km in a day! I guess this is gonna be my highest distance covered in a day on this trip. Roads were mostly good but with many rough patches. Started around 6.30 and reached Hyderabad by 9pm. All and all about 15 hours of riding. Tomorrow would be meeting my friends and colleagues here and also getting the bike service done. The chain sound is getting bad and even the front started making a sound.
Day 18ay out in Hyderabad, catch up with old friends, Biryani and Bike Service
A break for myself and for my bike as I reunite with my friends and colleagues from the previous company. For those of you don't know, I was in Hyderabad for about 4+ years and that's where I have started my rides. First of which was on Nagpur highway. Dropped my KTM at the Kondapur service center, it needed to fix with breaks and chain. While I met all my friends and took a stroll around the place where I used to stay years before. Nothing much has changed since i left 3 years ago and I still love this city. And last but not least I can't forget the countless biryanis I consumed here! Though I like shadab biryani more than anything I had to settle for paradise biryani
Special thanks to my friends who hosted me, as well as spending the whole day with me leaving behind all the work.
Day 19:Hyderabad to Challakere
So initial plan of running through all the way from Leh was to do the Kanyakumari stretch, however, got few updates saying it's too risky to cross-border now. One of senior rider friend who is currently riding in Tamilnadu now has advised the risk and gamble they need to hide the KA vehicles. I, on the other hand, don't know the language or place information, finally dropped the plan of doing Kanyakumari for now. I care too much about my bike to try anything of that sort! So the route changed towards Mangalore. Met another youtuber and vintage bike enthusiast Hassan at Hyderabad and he also brought me special Hyderabad biscuits as a gift. Took a turn to Ballari after Kurnool and most of the places roads were okay. It was drizzling in the morning and it rained continuously for more than an hour. Though I met rains in leh as well but it wasn't that heavy as today. It was a lovely ride in the rain just as I wanted Will take my favorite Shimoga route for tomorrow and planned to reach Mangalore by evening.
Day 20:Challakere to Theerthahalli to Mangalore
Though I had a better route option of taking the direct Chikmagalur route, I couldn't miss out my favorite Shimoga - theerthahalli - Kuppalli - Kudremukh ghat route. This place is heavenly during monsoon and nature will be soaked with rains and greens. And to my luck, it was drizzling all through the day. I couldn't miss visiting the home of National poet Kuvempu as well. That place is mesmerizing. Also, visit the memorial place of my favorite author KP Poornachandra Tejaswi. One should visit or take this route if you ever ride to mangalore. It was dusk by the time I reached home sweet home. Getting my bike serviced, and take a little break before riding to Bangalore is in order.
Day 21:Chill at home, sea food and meet friends
getting chilled at Tannirbavi beach, catch a movie and give work to mom to cook my favorite dishes! Nothing like a home cooked fish meal A proper break in between the ride!
Day 22:Full bike service and Rest
The first thing I wanted to get done before starting for Bangalore is to service my bike because of its easy on the pocket in Mangalore. Plus I was carrying spare engine oil so used up that as well. More easy on the pocket! Meet all my friends and eat the best sea food at the top of a boat! Plus the local drink Kali with chicken sukka in the evening!
Day 23:Final lap - Mangalore to Bangalore
The ride started with drizzles and rain all the way till Bangalore. Just like the ending I wanted. Last three days ride were rained all the way! All the dust and mud of the Himalayas from my riding gears washed away in the rains. And now I don't have to wash them lol. Met many people on the way. Bhuvan Rai and Shreyas who came from Puttur to meet me on the way, Another Shreyas on z800 riding to Udupi from Bangalore, Bangalore bikers group who were riding back from Shimoga, Surya on his way to Bangalore from Chikmagalur and Ruman on his way to Bangalore from Mumbai on Himalayan.
The below pic taken at the lay - by on the Nelamangala flyover. This is the exact place where we celebrated in the middle of the night on our return ride from Rajasthan and Gujarat. Took a stop here and recalled the entire 23 days ride here! Started from Chandigarh, took the highest motorable road and riding back all the way to Bangalore! Something I dreamt of and it came true. I made it. I have many people to thank for completing this ride successfully. But for now, there is one thing which stood extraordinary in this ride is my duke! I do not have enough words to be thankful for this piece of machine. I trusted this bike with my life and it kept the promise, took me safely all through India and finally back to Bangalore! Massive respect!
So without much further due, here are the pics :)
This is the first look of mountains you will get to see when you are riding from Bhilaspur to Manali
On the way to Rohtang Pass
Curves of Rohtang pass
The chosen one!
This guy riding alone from Kolkata on Pulsar 220.
Cute Road blocks!
BRO(Border Road Organisation) will be always encouraging everywhere you go in Himalayas.
RE group. And our BRO as always.
I was down with AMS and needed a rest. While the group went to Nubra Valley, I and Mohan roamed around Leh. This is one of the offroad we tried near Magnetic Hill. Much for the name as it claims, it didn't pass any of our tests. As per wiki it's just an illusion. You can see the magnetic hill stop in the backdrop where a tempo traveller is standing by.
Hall of fame. Do visit this place to know about more about the army and their sacrifices.
Upshi to Leh.
Street bike makes it to the Highest motorable road, Khardungla
Met few bikers from bangalore.
We went there early in the morning. Hence no crowd and hence my eyes :D
Its tough terrain!
Leh city in the backdrop.
because AMS! less oxygen.
Enroute to Pangong Tso
Breakfast time.
My Ride and the beautiful pangong Tso lake.
That's us!
Green patch is bit rare here. This is one of the place while on the way to Pangong Tso
Though it look very bright, the temperature is cold af! We had to do some Jugaad to keep our hands warm from the wind chill during morning and evening time. The Aspida Ares gloves I carried is no use for this weather at all. I had to buy winter gloves(200 rs) in Leh even that wasn't enough. I used to put two warmees inside both of gloves to keep it warm. Mohan went one step ahead and used a plastic to cover his gloves as well!!
We had to stay at Sarchu as there was large boulder fell on the road. So we road back and stayed in Sarchu for the night. BRO cleared the road in about 7 to 8 hours.
To be continued....