Basel, Switzerland:
Brrr, it’s a brisk 27 degrees outside (-5 C). My nose is a little red but for the most part, I’ve come well prepared for the cold. We quietly make our way along the narrow European streets to our rally point and it seems the only disturbances in the air are the hushed tones of whispered conversation and the slight shuffling of feet. An occasional little snowflake flitters out of the sky every now and then, lit up by evening street lights, yet, these quiet streets, going off in every which way direction (as most typical old town European streets do), are jammed with thousands of people waiting for the city’s oldest cathedral bell to chime. As you wait, jubilant anticipation marks the energy you feel while the smiles on everyone’s faces tell you you’re in for a real treat. Um, sorry, but did I mention that it’s still only 4 o’clock in the morning?
Finally, the bell sounds! All of the city’s street and shop lights go out! An impressive array of lighted floats and lanterns come alive and are all that mark your way. Right then, from all around, from near to far, hundreds of different club drum majors all shout out the same command to begin playing the traditional “Morgestraich”, a drum and piccolo march marking the official beginning of the Basel Fasnacht. For the next 72 hours, the city will not sleep as the costumed clubs (called “cliques”) make their way, drumming their drums and piping their piccolos all through the streets and alleyways of this city on the Rhine.
Basel Fasnacht (pronounced with a deep “ahh” sound), is traditionally begun the Monday after Ash Wednesday every year and is one of the richest, most colorful, family carnival experiences you could ever experience. Tracing its lineage back to the late 1300’s, Fasnacht, as the Swiss know it today, was mostly developed in the 19th and 20th centuries. What’s unique to this event is that during these three days, all usual social ranks are swept aside. That is, locals do not use the customary polite form when greeting a ranking company president, manager, or politician per se; a more informal greeting is used instead. Hence, imagine saying, “Hey John,” instead of, “Hello, Mr. President”. What’s even better is the fact that this person will be marching, playing, eating and drinking happily right along side you during the entire event.
Fasnacht wouldn’t be a carnival event without its dazzling, colorful costumes and I was amazed to learn that every year each clique is required to come up with a new theme and thus, new costumes to wear. Outfits ranging from historic medieval jesters and satirical French, overgrown nosed “Waggis” (pronounced, “Va-kees”) are adorned along side other laughable and amazingly imaginative costumes and masks. No details or expense is spared and with some 10,000 members making up the large number of different cliques within the city, chances are you’ll always see something new in a just a few moments time.
More fun is had when Waggis floats make their way along the streets and depending on how they like you, gifts or gags may be tossed your way. Much like the bead throwing during Mardi Gras, Fasnacht goers can expect a distinct variety of items to be offered. Be sure to keep your guard up though! The traditional spring offering of oranges can come flying down, unexpectedly, out of the air at any time. Depending on the mood of the float goers, you could end up being passed or tossed: flowers, candy, potatoes, lemons, packaged soup mixes, Red Bull, various alcoholic minis, 12 ounce Heinekens, onions, big and small stuffed animals, Sony pizza cutters (“Sony makes a pizza cutter…?”). I took a picture of the National Swiss Float Waggis and was rewarded a genuine leather satchel! Beware however; excellent gifts such as these come with a price! After saying thank you, I turned away, had my hat taken off my head and proceeded to have a 5 pound bag of confetti dumped on me!
Monday and Wednesday afternoons around 1pm, all official cliques form into a grand parade and march along a televised set route through downtown Basel and adjacent streets. For three hours, the cliques come one after another, displaying the dazzling colors of their costumes and showing off their themed lantern creations to the crowd.
Early Tuesday afternoon, “Carnival Tuesday” begins with the Fasnacht groups of children taking to the streets in their main parade. Just like the adults, some play drums and piccolos while others pass out treats for the first time in their young lives to the crowds. By-standard parents often dress their children up this day and it’s quite refreshing to see all of the different outfits donned by the kids. Later that evening, the kids give way to the Gugge (“Goo-geh”) Band musicians. These costumed groups; who are not much different from your high school’s marching band, all gather in the city’s main square for a loud and pulse pounding concert. On the other hand, if a standing room only crowd and thumping music isn’t your style, head over to visit the Munsterplatz (main square) by the river and old cathedral, where all of the 200 clique’s lanterns are gathered for lighted display.
After the official parades, more aimless marching and playing through the city takes place. One might say this wandering and in-step sauntering throughout the streets would get old after a while. “Of course not!” my Swiss friend tells me. “We have many ‘liquid timeouts’,” (impromptu breaks taken in the city’s restaurants and pubs). Soon after entering, songs begin to be sung to hoisted bottles of beer, bellies are filled and laughs are had before it’s back out again.
Fasnacht ends with the ritual of many cliques continuing to drum, whistle and bang their way right up to the 4am Thursday morning cut-off time. Each clique celebrates its own finale by retreating back to their clubhouse, removing their costumes, shaking hands in a congratulatory “well-done”, before finally, happily, making their way home.
For more information or videos regarding Basel, Fasnacht, visit these links or query, "Basel Fasnacht" on either Google or YouTube:
http://www.baslerfasnacht.info/basel-fasnacht/index.php
https://www.basel.com/en/Carnival-in-Basel
http://fasnacht.ch
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