Has anyone ever visited "the most famous bookstore in the world"? Let me take you there.
Disappointed from seeing Séraphine Louis' paintings as the museum Matillon isn't showing them till January next year, we walked and walked from Saint Germaine de Pres along the River Seine till we reached the Latin Quarter, our destination, a special bookstore in the Left Bank near Notre Dame. Being with the same friend who brought me here the first time years ago, there's no longer a question between us of going again this time as it's location is very much accessible when going to Notre Dame. It's hidden from the road and can easily be missed. We got lost looking for it that first time.
Anywhere around the world, have anyone ever seen a bookstore with this long queu just to get in to browse? Or buy, so far it's the only English bookstore that I have seen in Paris or in South of France. An exemption of course is when there's a book signing from famous authors or other activities using this venue. On the three occasions that I have been here, we always queu to get in. And always, there's a staff minding the traffic. All staff speak in fluent English by the way, a rare occurence when travelling around the country.
Paris Wall Newspaper 1999
Raenier Maria Rilke wrote about the little shops of the Latin Quarter with their shop windows filled with old books and etchings. Where nobody seemed to enter and the proprietor could be seen reading peacefully, indifferent to wordly success. Beside him lies a dog or perhaps a cat.
I swear i saw at least a couple of cats in this occasion, one sitting in one of the rooms, the other outside the window upstairs. Found this story written near the main door. If before this place was snubbed and nobody was seen entering it, nowadays, the queu outside is constant from the everyday tourists. To its' right is a restaurant and having its' own cafe, the front facade is always full of people. There's also a small park to the left side of the building, so it can get crowded at times from here, crossing the river to Notre Dame.
Shakespeare & co.
Founded by Sylvia Beach, an American from Baltimore who was studying French Literature during the last years of the Great War, she first opened this English language bookstore at 8 rue Dupuytren, Paris VI. It remained open after the Fall of Paris, but was forced to close by the end of 1941.
Another American by the name of George Whitman opened a new bookshop in 1951 along la rue de la Bûcherie called Le Mistral. It was renamed Shakespeare and company in honor of the late Sylvia Beach in 1964. His daughter Sylvia Beach Whitman have been running the bookshop since his death in 2011. She was named after its' founder.
A monastery beside Notre Dame
Further back in the year 1600, our whole building was a monastery called "La Maison du Mustier". In medieval times, each monastery had a 'frère lampier' whose duty was to light the lamps at night fall. I have been doing this for 50 years. Now it is my daughter's turn. - George Whitman, Paris Wall Newspaper, January 1st, 2004
From George Whitman, "it is a socialist Utopia masquerading as a bookstore, a bohemian rhapsody where visitors slept upstairs and red wine was served in empty tuna can". One can only wonder how the place was lived in those days. His words are ever present and history can be felt in every inch of its' walls the moment any tourist sets foot in its' threshold.
I created this bookstore like a man would write a novel, building each room like a chapter. I like people to open the door the way they open a book, a book that leads into a magic world in their imagination." -George Whitman (an extract from washingtonpost)
Downstairs isn't spacious as all the walls and dividers are full of back to back books from the floor to the ceiling. As there are occasional couches for customers, people can be seen relaxing and reading in all corners. Anyone who got a sensitive nose definitely need to check this place out, the smell of old and new books combined is interesting!
It's more spacious upstairs, allonsy!
This is my favorite room as there are a couple of chairs, a couch, wooden benches and a table infront of the only window in thjs room. Peeping outside the window, the Notre Dame towers can be seen from behind a few trees, covering the road and the river. It makes you feel secluded like looking out in the garden at your house. Inside are more books that you can just reach out and then sit in your own corner. A lot of photographs can also be seen hanging out from the walls. The feeling inside is unbelievable, it is very warm and accomodating that you don't want to leave. If I live in Paris, it is one place that I can stay all day, keeping in mind that there are loads to see and do in this city.
There is a piano in another part that anyone can play to till 8 o'clock. From memory, there is only a small couch there. There's always somebody sitting in it that you might need to queu to use it. Just walk about, one can always pass-by there again and see if it's free. It's the last place I check before going downstairs where almost every time, it's always, always cramped with tourists.
So is this the most famous bookstore in the world?
I can't answer that! What I can say is that, there's nothing like it. It's a very historical place, where each person that have lived in its' premises have left his or her own mark in the pages of history. Where every inch of its' walls was a testament of those writers, students and vagabonds that at some point in their lives, this place was their home and only shelter.
Bought a 25th edition of The Alchemist...somebody's happy!
Did anyone notice this on the stairs? I've heard of Rumi, but here I met Hafez. If you're ever in Paris, come and meet him in Shakespeare and co. You'll never know who else you might meet in here.
I call it a gem, as this place is very rare. I definitely recommend it when visiting Paris. Besides, it's only a few steps from Notre Dame.
All images are mine, taken with my Samsung Galaxy S7. Credit to PicsArt.
REFERENCES:
https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/europe/shakespeare-and-company-pariss-famous-bookstore-where-wandering-writers-are-welcome/2016/09/26/c975344e-7b44-11e6-8064-c1ddc8a724bb_story.html?utm_term=.a120a0a1dc0d
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sylvia_Beach