Below: Long Beach, Koh Rong, Cambodia
Sihanoukville, 4 hours drive south of the capital Phnom Penh, will most likely be your first port of call. A dilapidated and sorry-for-its self leftover from colonial times. Crass casinos and soulless hotels compete for space among a multitude of backpacker hostels. The main strip, Serendipity , was not worth hanging around. The scene is very much backpackers and old men; the beach itself is dominated by government mandated promenade-front bars all with identical cheap furniture plonked on the beach with their identical menus.
Heading to Koh Rong
The following day we set off for Koh Rong, a largish island off the coast. As our last trip to Cambodia was enhanced (or as my wife would say - 'ruined') by a very interesting boat trip to Battambang, I hoped this one might be better. A new half-million dollar catamaran would be our vessel cutting journey time from 2 hours to 30 minutes. As we sat aboard with the engine turning over I was still optimistic. As the Cambodian engineers disappeared into the engine compartment, half an hour went by and travelers started hopping off to drink beer at the jetty-side bar, I wavered. An hour later, chugging along the coast in a distinctly non-Koh Rong direction, a Russian regular delivered the hilarious truth...they're taking us to the slow boat. Deposited right back to square one (and the 1970s transport wise) and the best sunbathing spots had been bagged we finally departed. I had no idea where Paradise Bungalows were from the boat. We should have been able to walk there comfortably along the path, but it didn't exist. The tide was out which at least meant we were aiding in the dragging of unjustifiably heavy luggage through sand for 800 meters. Never presume anything travelling in this part of the world: hopefully you'd hop on the boat, be disembarked, checked in and ready for a swim before sunset cocktails - in reality you need to prepare for broken down boats lowered expectations on journey times and comfort levels.
A small crowded stretch of cheap accommodation surround the pier, at the end of the beach is the much quieter Paradise Bungalows. The place is slightly stuck in a time-warp in terms of tending to guests, and our $60 a night beach front bungalow was basic, open to the elements with not a shelf or drawer in site, just two double beds with saggy mattresses and mosquito nets. Having had our food chewed through by a critter we soon disposed of anything aromatic to avoid more visitors. Other guests staying up in the hills had bigger monkey shaped critters. Complaints (by those who had monkey visitations) were dealt with by the staff with an amused look and shrug of the shoulders as if to say 'This is paradise, take it or leave it!'. The beach front water-buffalo added to the faraway feeling. One mesmerized tourist whispered 'What is that...' to me in awe as she slowly raised a long-lens. Newb.
The mandatory jungle trek was the closet to an actual jungle trek I've seen on a tropical island, a moderate climb followed by a very steep descent over large boulders. As usual the flip flops I had weren't doing me any favors. We emerged from the foliage onto a long beach which had been named by the unimaginative beach naming committee of South East Asia (who seem to have a big influence in the region) 'Long Beach'.
They do try and scare you off at the beginning of the trek:
The view from half way ain't bad:
On the other side. Stunning, completely underdeveloped, crystal clear waters: Long Beach.
Back to the mainland and the catamaran had been repaired but on the 40 minutes it took I wished it hadn't - we pitched and rolled around like we were entombed in a washing machine. My daughter proceeding to vomit everywhere garnering the sympathy of backpackers who were missing their nieces and nephews back home. I sat anxiously next to Chi (my wife) who I knew specifically hated boat trips of this nature and was using every ounce of mental strength to not see her breakfast again. Conversation was out of the question. A tuk-tuk now to Otres just 3 kms from town and an utterly amazing, largely deserted beach, with very limited accommodation. We rented a terraced garden shed and shared a 'bathroom' with the rest of the resort that bilged yellow water from the well out of its taps. Safe to say I let the hygine go a little those three days, even though it was Christmas, and maintained a decent alcoholic haze the whole time. One night our whole row of bungalows lay wide awake blinking at the ceiling at 3am listening to a drunken couple having a huge domestic in the row of straw houses behind us. Accommodation at Otres was sparse (although there are some posher hotels way up the other end of the beach):
A scenic two hour drive took us to to Kampot, a sleepy fishing town, and 'The Mango Tree'. Traditional Khmer houses sit in a lush tropical garden by the river, the breeze swaying the palms and sheep grazing in the garden; all a welcome background as you sit on the veranda over the water and enjoy the sun setting behind Bokor mountain. Renting a three bedroom house on stilts for $60, the place had the atmosphere of a French summer camp: kids, swings and board games, kayaks and bicycles for hire. We took the night trip on the river to see fireflies in abundance and disturb the bio-luminescent algae, the next day took the bikes and pedaled through a maze of grassy tracks through the paddies bordered by the residences of friendly locals and shady banana trees. A lot of over-exuberant dogs to give you the odd injection of adrenaline as they chase you whilst barking their rabid heads off. Just a reminder that you're still an alien in this other-worldly and picturesque land.
The Mange Tree, Kampot
Although it's rough around the edges compared to the polished experiences available in Thailand and Malaysia, Cambodia has just as much going for it. And some of us enjoy rough edges, too. The people are great, and one more thing, the food is fantastic. Phnom Penh is still a good 5 hour trip from Saigon by bus/car, or a (relatively) expensive 40 minute flight. Car hire is reasonable (e.g $50 for a private car with driver Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, 4 hours)