You can read about my previous adventures here.
10th of May. Menton.
It felt good to ride with Henrich and Trev. I like this feeling. After all, it’s different experiences, cycling alone and cycling with others. Everything in life is the same, I just have to find the right balance.
Most importantly, I have to be able to do things alone before I could share the experience with someone else.
The trip actually begins. We crossed this thing existing only in our head : borders.
I think about mixing cultures while respecting them.
I explain. Each territory has its specificities, each population has its specificities. Yet, it’s important we mingle, it’s important we share and learn from each other. Basic example is tasting different food so you can make your own food based on every food you tasted.
Actually I don’t know if there are different cultures. Maybe only a broad one…
We have fun, we do silly things in a child park.
We meet a couple but don’t actually talk to them even if we saw them 4 or 5 times ! We don’t have to talk to everyone we meet. Sometimes circumstances and feelings says just wave at them.
We slept near a bike monument (the Sanremo-Milan race one). Feels good that Italian love bikes !
11th of May. Imperia.
In the morning we rode together. At some point, we split with Trev. He had the habit to do 10 kilometers then stop a bit. With Henrich, we did 20-30 kilometers at once. Philosophies clashed but it was okay for everyone.
It was fun because we saw Trev again three times on the road. Each time he was ahead of us !
Before going into a tunnel, Henrich was excited. He saw 3 travellers. He went straight to talk to them. One of them spoke French. I spoke with him.
I explain that I left France with 20 euros and had no money left. He says that it was okay. I said I asked food when bakeries were closing for example. He said “No no no, ask in the morning when the bread is fresh.” Huuum, yes why not. I could be hungry in the morning and have no food, it’s good to know that it can work any time of the day.
Back in Menton, I thought about the way I asked. When I asked for unsold items, owners would answer they still can sell food before closing time, even if I saw in their eyes they would be happy to give me something.
Maybe I should just ask for food.
He also suggested to beg. He gathered 40€ with his friend by begging during an afternoon. Hum…definitely not. I will not do that.
My body told me to eat vegetables. I had bread and pastas for the past days.
I decided to go ask in a shop selling fruits and vegetables. At first the guy thought I wanted money. I spoke in both English and French. He spoke both. He proposed food. I said “Great !” Fresh fruits from the shelf !
I have fruits for the first time in Italy ! I can survive without speaking Italian ! So happy each time I receive gifts !!!
12th of May. Savona.
It was a slow day with Trev (we left Henrich in the morning). We started to cross the hills between the Liguria coast and Piemonte.
I thought about the two approaches of Trev and Henrich. At the moment, Trev was more take it slowly. Don’t rush too much (also he has a 40kg trailer ^^).
Henrich was into going fast and riding all day long. Minimum 120kms for him.
We talked about it before. Maybe it’s about balance between extremes. I like to experience extremes so I can find balance easily.
13th of May. Carcare.
I doubled lucid dream !
The same thing occurred. I talk to people in my dream even if I know it’s absurd. I make fun of it. I don’t know why but I became fire. I literally lit myself !
I woke up. I’m still in a dream. Next to me I have earphones, compote bathed the all thing.
I had a lucid dream in a dream, how weird ! I analysed the lucid dream in this other dream. Indian type guy takes my dream to make an example of an analysing method. His method starts with “i”.
I’m in the country of la comedia del arte. I really want to attend this Gibberish training by Alex Sternick. A year and a half I have the intention to attend it !
In this long day cycling alone (more than 100 km), I think about money. I wonder if I ask people for food, because I have only fruits, a big pastries with chocolate, rice and lentils that I cannot cook.
I knew rice could cook with water. I tried. I waited some hours. Conclusion. I ate half cooked rice. Wooohoo !
This is where I eat the half cooked rice.
I reminisce the conversation with Trev the last evening. He told me he closes himself because he can just go to a supermarket, buy what he needs, barely speak to anybody and VOILA !…
This does not allow to dive deep into a culture and share with people, wild camping also.
I’ll ask to get hosted so I can know better about the way people function in their environment.
At the same time, when I ask for food, usually I talk with people for a few minutes, not that much.
I arrived in Torino through a crowded road. I even passed through a tuning festival.
Laura and Dario are marvellous hosts. My first Italian pasta, real macaroni, not the industrialized one of France. But surely the industrialized one of Italy !
14th of May. Torino.
My first Italian breakfast ! Yeah !
We went to a wine festival the all day. I was a bit drunk at the end of the day. But it was cool to taste some Italian wines.
We played with Italian. Laura was my teacher. Dario met a friend and his girlfriend. Laura always forgot the name of the girlfriend.
We decided to make a little trick. She taught me how to ask for the name of somebody.
“Okay train yourself !”
I ask “Come ti llami ?” to the girlfriend.
She responded “Sandra. Come ti llami ?”
Hihihihi ! Mission accomplished ! We were so proud ^^
Reflections crossed my mind. I think about how language structures thoughts and how they can be similar and yet different at the same time.
Laura told me numerous dialects because Italy was united after France. I’m glad I did not lose myself into the history of countries before visiting them. It could have take a long time…
Learning bits by bits history like this is funnier !
15th of May. Torino.
I fast while visiting Torino with the bike.
I decided to attend the Gibberish course. The Italian organiser, Lucia, said come insistently.
"Okay why not. It will give a spontaneous twist to my journey."
Laura had planned to visit her parents because it was mother’s day. We eat pizza della mama during the evening.
I spoke Italian with la mama de Laura. I ask to Laura if she could help me with translation of basic sentences in Italian.
I knew how to ask for food in Italian. Thank you Laura !
16th of May.
I barely noticed it. I’m okay with the fact of leaving the hospitality of a host without money. I cooked my last lentils just in case I fail miserably at asking food in Italian. I eat the delicious 3 slices of pizza the mamma of Laura gave me. I leave slowly Torino.
Milano. Ancona. Gibberish. Here I come !
The first time I ask in the evening is an employee in a bakery, she says no because of the boss not being there. I know the story…
It felt uncomfortable because I was reading my italian notes.
I went round and round in the next city. I noticed a fruit and vegetable store at the entry of the city but didn’t listened to the intuition. I was impressed because there was a guy talking to the owner.
I found no other options after going around the village. I went back there. I asked without the help of notes !
Here what the owner gave me.
IT WORKS ! I can ask food in Italian and PEOPLE UNDERSTAND ME !
I asked two times to sleep in people's garden… in Italian. I was on fire ! They said no.
While letting go, I found this place :
Confidence to the top ! I can make this work in Italian and people understand me !
I’m okay with being in danger. I learned the lesson from Nice !!!
Still sent one Warmshower request, declined… I’ll stop slowly to send Warmshower request. Real life is way better. I’m still addicted to the computer, internet… It reassures my mind… I see it more clearly.
17th of May.
I still have vegetables and lentils left. I asked for organic bread and got it.
Too much riding under the sun. Big headache. No food left, first time in the trip, not even uncooked food (like the rice and lentils I got at the beginning of the trip to reassure me…).
At 7pm30 I wanted to meet Trev in Milan but I have 40 kilometers left to go.
Finally, the two women I asked gave me a lot of food… which I didn’t even eat in the evening because of a big headache. Way too much sun. I’m learning the smooth and slow lesson the hard way.
I search for a place to sleep. I did not ask to sleep in the house of people. I asked only to build my tent in their garden.
Finally I found a nice place. I did not ask to sleep in the house of people. I was not confident enough to ask them to host me.
Nevertheless, it felt good to play with Italian. It’s easy for me to learn since I speak French and I spoke Spanish. I wonder what it’ll be when I leave latin countries.
18th of May. Milano.
On the cycle path to Milano, I found Mulberries. At first, I thought “What is this weird long species of blackberries growing in a tree.” I ate only two because I was scared of it being poisonous.
The search for wifi. There is wifi in almost every respectable sized city in Italy.
You need either a credit card or a phone number to access wifi in Italy. (Un)fortunately, I have none of them. It may be a way for the state to control the use of internet by anybody, to know where they are.
First fall in the trip. Slipt on rails of the tram. I was angry about this situation. Everybody looked at me without helping me.
I needed to eat and calm myself. I saw a park in the center of Milano.
I manage to find wifi by asking a waiter in a restaurant in the park. DUUUUH ! Just ask instead of having a hard time to search for open wifi everywhere in the city.
I learned that Trev left Milano. Hun… Felt nice to travel with others. I reminisced of the time when I was with Trev and Henrich. I let go of loneliness. I need to be okay being alone.
I’m looking for the 400 € to pay the training on Gibberish in Ancona. I have approach anxiety to ask that. Food is okay now. But 400€, that is something…
Staying in the park, to write, read, find a host. I thought about sedentary life and nomadic life. I chilled at the park and checked internet a few hours later. I found a host. Grazie mille Kim !
I have a few hours to lose. So I lose myself in the city. I have approach anxiety again. I could have ask many people that looked to have the 400€…
It felt good to have conversation in English with Kim. Something more complex then just asking for food…
She made me thought about money. She had a friend traveling without money. He asked for food in Europe. When he went to Asia he worked in farms to gather money, because he did not have the heart to ask Asians for food. It seemed wrong to him.
I don’t know what to do with this point. It’s food for thought. I’ll just eat it and see what comes out !
19th of May.
I planned on leaving Milano. I saw that it rained while waking up.
I wanted to ask rich guys in a place near my host’s place… Finally, I didn’t wanted to wait midday for people of the business district to go eat their lunch.
I had rain. I was pissed at Milano. Cars. Stress with the bags. Tired.
Will I find the 400€ ? Why I am going to Ancona ? What if I can’t do the training ? BLA BLA BLA BLA…
I’m depressed in Milano. It starts to rain. I suit myself with my rain clothes. Rain stops.
I continue my journey out of Milano. I want to get the hell out of this place !
It starts to rain again. I took the highway without realizing it.
Thankfully, I manage to get out of it quickly. I reach a small town. I’m waiting in this town out of Milano. I’m under a tree. It’s a good shelter.
Doubts. Rain. Fear of sleeping wet. Lots of rain.
To sooth my soul, I ate the last two oranges Kim gave me. I’m desperate. I’m hungry. I’m tired.
I became bored of waiting under the tree for the rain and my emotions to calm down. Too much rain on the tree started to make it a bad shelter. I left under the strong rain.
I had to find food. My decision was the right one because I got out of the rainy clouds. 5 minutes later, there was no more rain !
I’m hungry. The strong emotions and riding the bike took the energy of my breakfast…I had a hard time finding a bakery or any places where they sell food, I was near an airport…
I see a bakery. Well, same story. I pass in front of it, there is people inside.
I go in after coming back. I must have look desperate. I ask. She said no because her boss was not there.
I say “Grazie mille. Ciao !” I always say thank you even if they say no. I heard “Aspetta” which means “Wait”. She gave me a bag full of bread.
I stopped further on my way. It looked like frozen bread. It’s not the best bread, but hey ! I had something to eat at least !
Often in small cities, I see this representation of Madonna (Virgin Mary). They have this small temples outside the town. They have paintings on houses at the entrance of the town. It makes me think about narratives; how powerful they are, how they work.
I had free cherries in a town. I saw this two young boy eating cherries on this small cherry tree. I asked wifi in an hotel and came back to eat cherries.
I had to join the Eurovelo 5 which is also the Francia Frangipena. I had an amazing time. The road was clean. I saw green wherever I put my eyes, fields everywhere around and sometimes the Po. A gentle wind coming from my left. I sang loudly for an hour. I tried to ride with no hands on my bike. I was playful. I said a loud energetic “Ciao” at every occasional bypasser.
Something started at this point. I did something spontaneous : going to the Gibberish course in Ancona. I also changed my plans. People didn’t responded to me on Warmshowers. I started to feel comfortable with the danger, with not knowing where to sleep, not knowing what I will eat.
I arrived in Piacenza. I was delighted. I was light.
I loved the buildings made from bricks, the paved roads, the little streets. I went to ask for vegetables. I had a good laugh with a young woman my age and an 60 years old lady.
I had to find a place to sleep. I was okay with sleeping outside. I ask a guy while I was trying to organize the food I just got. He is called Sirio. He speaks English. He was studying nutrition. We spoke about pollen and spirulina. He proposed to host me but he had to see with his closed minded flatmate. He contacted me later on Whatsapp to give me a negative answer. It’s okay. I’ll go sleep outside the city.
The evening was magical. A wonderful sunset, a charming city, acceptance of the unknown.
I tried to go out of the city. I turn left on a roundabout thinking it would lead me to the countryside. I see this guy on his bike, prepared to cross the road. He smiles at me. I stopped and ask if he could host me. He thinks a bit about it and answers “Why not !”. Meraviglioso ! I met Witek.
I had many interesting conversation with Witek this night. It was amazing. We talked about money The fact that it’s a social contract. We talk about energy also (he studies energy). I felt energized by those conversations.
I remember we also talked about the different forms of The Mother and The Father. The fact that in stories characters can be forms of the Mother and the Father. For example, Mary is a representation of the Mother.
What is money ? A form of the mother ?
20th of May. Piacenza.
We did slack line and yoga in the morning. Plus a bit of capoeira.
We talked about network of villages and going closer into nature. A generation may have to die to get there. We have to learn their lessons before we get into the next level and… before they die.
I feel the potential of the vision hold by people under 30. It gets far, it’s big and ambitious.
We eat pierogi (a delicious polish meal) with Witek. It’s amazing ! We talked about religion a bit, because of the presence of the two mormons friends of Witek.
It’s around 5pm when I left Witek’s flat. It’s unusual. But it was such a great night and day ! See you soon Piacenza.
On my way I find this mulberry trees again. On each side of the road in a turn. I stopped and gather some. I have almost nothing to eat. Witek was kind to offer me some food.
At some point I was thinking about Trev and people offering him things spontaneously.
I wanted to go to the next town at least. A storm was coming. I ride as hard as I can trying to escape the coming storm. I could see the dark clouds at my left coming to get me. I could feel the stormy wind.
I arrived in a small town. I passed in front of a bar. I checked how far I was to the next town where I wanted to ask people to host me. I didn’t wanted to sleep outside under the storm.
I heard someone yell “Vieni, Vieni, Vieni” in my back. I was barely back on my bike. I see this guy waving at me near the bar. I started to manoeuver to go at the bar. I said to myself “Maybe it’s not directed at me.” I turned back again. And he kept yelling “Vieni, vieni. Heeeeey !”.
I turned back for good and went to meet him.
He was blown away by my bike. He wanted to offer me coffee. At the half liter can of beer he hold at the bar, I understood he was drunk. But it was fun to be there. He offered anything to drink. I was confused so I said coffee. He said to the young waitress to get me coffee.
His name is Gabriele. I didn’t speak much Italian but still enough to make him laugh. He was fun to be around. He asked if I had food and a place to sleep. I said not much food and I tried to explain in a 3 years old Italian that I want to avoid the storm.
They gave me a slice of pizza and a fried piece of fish between two slices of bread. The owner of the bar apparently knew a place for me to sleep in the church. She called somebody. And voila I had a place to stay for the night. I kissed her like suggested by Gabriele to show my gratitude.
Gabriele wanted to get me there with his scooter. I was a bit worried because he seemed drunk. He loved my bike to much and kissed my fingers while looking at my bike “Bella !”.
The church was near by. I had an apartment with a high ceiling.
“Cool ! Finally, I can rest alone.”
I typed my travel notes on my computer. I watched some documentaries (Life from David Attenborough). Pffiou.
Felt good. I got a bit tired of having to be always with people, without time for myself. I love people. But it’s important to have some alone time once in a while.
Free sandwich. Free piece of pizza. First apartment. This is nourishing my ideas on money…
21st of May. Chiaravalle della Colomba.
I had a weird night in the church. Sleeping in this church creeped me out.
I had two kind of nightmares.
The first was a guy coming into the room. At first he seemed nice. He didn’t talk much. I was doing the talking “Oh ! Cool you are in the same room ! What are you doing here ?”
He sat on my bed while I was talking and started to put his arm on my throat to kill me. “What are you doing ? Leave me alone !”
I woke up, agitated. I felt frightened. It raised some fears : “Maybe I’m going to die here. I’m alone in this big flat, a priest is going to rape me and bury me alive or eat me.”
I had my eyes open for 40 minutes watching the door in case somebody would come in. I knew the fears where coming from me. They were so strong, I felt they could shape reality.
The second, I don’t remember. In anyway, I’m grateful for this night.
I woke up. I took my time. I packed my stuff. I went singing in the church, I was having fun.
I went on my way. It was 9 am and hot. Sunday.
I knew it will be more difficult to get food because shops usually close in the afternoon. First decent town I went in, I looked for a grocery shop. I found this shop of the world. An Indian guy was running the shop. I asked him. He took his wallet full of money. He wanted to give me money. I said I wanted food.
“Oh okay ! What do you want ?”
It felt surprising and unusual. I didn’t know what to say. He offered me choice and there was a shop full of delicious products. I controlled myself and decided to take healthy choices : fruits, vegetables and some canned chicken.
Around midday, I saw a sign indicating a labyrinth. I hesitated. I thought it was free. Let’s try to go do it… even without money ! I’m doing a world tour of humor and play after all. It’s a great opportunity !
I went in. It was clean outside. A nice building. Buses around maybe to bring tourists. I looked for a way in by asking employees arranging table in the small court.
They indicated me a place inside. I went and stated my project. Instant “NO, it’s 18 euros.” I felt shocked. She did not cared.
I could have negotiated, I thought to myself afterward, or even ask anybody to pay the ticket for me.
But I don’t like this attitude. Play and games should be accessible to everybody. I don’t like this kind of weird elitism based on money.
I don’t think only people with money should be allowed the access to this kind of fun… to any kind of fun !
Of course, you can find fun in every moment of your life. Diversifying activities is beneficial to find a playful attitude.
I get bored if I do the same thing over and over. And sometimes not even, I find new areas to explore when I do the same thing over and over.
I am now comfortable with asking food in Italian. I see this shop that looks like a bakery. I decide to go in. It only sells pastries. Why not ! I asked. It worked ! Yeaaah, they looked expensive ^^
First time, I get free delicious pastries.
I have this growing approach anxiety when I think about asking people 400€ for the gibberish training. The further I go from the North and the more I have it. I see that I move away from the money places.
It was a good opportunity. I started to feel bored to ask only for food and shelter. I did not take pictures of the food offered because it now seemed common. But...I had a new challenge :D
At 7pm, after Modena I said to myself I have to sleep in a villa of rich people. Just try it. I want to verify this assumptions “The poorest people are the most generous.”
I also want to let go of the rejection feeling/desire I have.
I rang the bell of a villa, it was a weird moment. They didn’t spoke English nor French. They hang up shortly after. Greeeeeat !
At least I tried. I’ll have to try more than that !
I ask a guy with his daughter walking a dog. He said he has a small place.
I rang a bell again. A lady on a balcony came out. She didn’t speak English. Her niece came out.
She spoke English and told me she had to leave tomorrow at 5 in the morning…
I ask a guy in a pizzeria. He asks another, and he said no…
I see a guy hugging a dog in a garden. I told myself “I should ask this guy, he seems like a nice man.”
I talked with him for some time. He really wanted to help me. He was looking for bed and breakfast…I told him I had no money but I could ask for a free night.
Later in the conversation, he seemed hesitant. He came inside the house and gave me 20€. I was so amazed !
The balcony girl came “I have found a place for you”. WOOOOOOW ! AMAZING. I was blown away. It felt magical. I was infinitely grateful. Thank you life to take care of me like this !
She said "Follow my car, I'll take you to the house of my friend."
I followed Catherina to the house of her friend Camila. I spent an amazing evening with Julio, Zully, Camila, Natalia and Catherina. We laughed so hard !
First time I ate this mezzo metro pizza. It’s half of a meter square pizza with different kind on it. I ask if they had pizza with goat cheese and honey and that was the end xD
22nd of May. Reggio nell'Emilia.
One of the best hosting night. I had so much food. This was awesome !
I thought about using the potato Manu gave me. The game of the potato. I want to see if I can trade the potato until I get something worth 400€ of value to pay for the gibberish training of Alex Sternick.
I thought about the social construct that we call “money”. It requires a worldwide dialogue to make it work. It will be hard to create something else where everybody can contribute. Today people use money but they have nothing to say about the design of money.
I wanted to start the potato game in Bologna. I even made a video to share this adventure with people. I had not the courage to start it, I was too tired.
Zully has a sister in Bologna. I had the address. I rang the bell, twice. I tried to speak in Spanish (she spoke only Spanish and Italian). She was pissed at me because I rang twice. I felt weird. I was exhausted. I didn’t know what to do.
I needed a nap so I could think straight about the next step. I slept a bit in a park nearby. After that, I decided to get out of Bologna.
At sunset, I decided to start looking for hosts. I rang in a kind of church. They didn’t respond. I asked some girl at a house. No. I start to clearly see when people make excuses. It pisses me off because I would be totally okay with “I don’t want to host you” but they give me bullshit excuses.
I saw a guy repairing his car. I asked. It was interesting because he didn’t speak much English. The trust between us built gradually. First, he kind of suggested a place nearby in the grass. Then he offered a place in his camping car. We went to take his wife Valentina. Then we walked the dog together and talked English. They taught me Italian. It was fun to speak Italian with them.
Finally they offered an amazing dinner. I met their son Giulio. We could speak English together. At the end of the dinner, he said that I will not sleep in the camper. I was kind of scared for a second. He said I will sleep in the basement in a bed. HOW AMAZING !
23rd of May. Maggio. 2 MONTHS ON THE ROAD !
I had to wake up at 7am. I did not get enough sleep. That’s not important, getting hosted gives me energy : the people met, the bed, discovering new food.
In Forenza, I ask three people in the street if they wanted to play the potato game with me. I had the courage after eating cherries in the street but none of this people had anything to gave me. The first said it was great I had this project. I thanked him a lot. It was a wonderful start. It erased my approach anxiety.
I learned incrementally. “Don’t ask people in the street. Lower chances.”
I went in a sofa store. It seemed illogical. But why not after all ?
There was an old man and a pretty young girl. I tried explaining my project with half English half Italian and half French. She spoke a bit of French. The old man was pissed at me. He thought I wanted money. I had to try harder to explain my intentions.
Finally they said I could have a cuscino which is a pillow. I didn’t expected to trade my potato for a pillow right away !
I saw a music store. I thought they could give me a small instrument. I go to this girl. She find my game amazing “Bellisima gioca !”. I’m glad. She asks the manager. He gets pissed also. “I DON’T WANT A CUSCINO !”
They gave me a keyholder for free.
I saw a toy store. “They would surely like to play the potato game.” I explained my intention she said instantly “No.”
WOOOOW ! I’m shocked. I had to calm down. I was deluded. She is running a toy store, it’s all about play and she said “No” without even wanting to know more.
I decided to eat and sleep in a park. I’ll go slow after that. I took lots of swing. I try as much as I can to ride swings when I see them. It’s one of my favourite toy.
I saw a bike shop - Dinamo Cicli. Nicola was repairing a bike outside. I explained my game. He liked it. He gave me socks in exchange for the key holder.
He shared with me his philosophy called ELGASAMIENTO. He gave me Elgasamiento stickers, a T-shirt with Elgasamiento on it, 3 tires, a small pump and a long nice amazing talk. I was almost overwhelmed by his generosity.
He explained Elgasamiento. It’s a way of life where you are deep into what you are doing, it is almost like the concept of flow. I felt goose bumps when he talked about it. I could connected to this. I was living it at this moment.
I tried others unexpected shops. I was rejected most of the time. It was hard and took me loads of energy. It’s amazing when I tell people about the game and they say no, how insignificant I feel ! “They really don’t care.”
In a paper shop, I exchanged the socks of Nicola with colour pen. I felt duped. The socks were 15€ and the colour pens 1,90€. I said to the woman “You can give me anything.” And… she gave me anything. I got what I asked for… Soooo colour pens…
I was confused about it. Should I say no next time ? Do I need to learn to say no ? Do I need to let go ?
It made me think about gift economy.
Sleeping in a church again. What makes them generous ? Why this religious story makes them behave like that ?
I had a nice evening with Sophia and Julia (two volunteers working in the bar inside the church). They helped me translate the text about trading Rosito the potato.
I kind of improved my Italian and we laughed a lot.