Ahhhh.... Venice, the most magical city. I love Venice because it's the city that the number one thing to do is to get lost. And trust me, we spent a LOT of time lost! Every twist and turn in the streets ended in a new adventure!
My mother and I try to take a trip every year, and this year found us in Italy. Our last leg of the trip was Venice for three days which was not nearly long enough. Everything was wonderful in Venice - the food, wine, shopping, people, architecture, atomosphere...you name it - it was unforgettable! Of the cities I visited in Italy, Venice is the one I'll go back to first I think.
Upon arrival via train from Florence, we took a water taxi to our hotel, Hotel ai Cavalieri. People have arrived in Venice via boat for over a thousand years and until the mid-1800's there was no bridges linking Venice to the mainland. Taking a water taxi in Venice is the equivalent of limousine service in any other city. Although Venice has great public transit, most of these are restricted to the Grand Canal and cannot navigate the smaller canals like water taxis can. With leather seats and an expert driver, it was the ultimate welcome to Venice. The fare is a little pricey, but well worth the money spent and the view of the Grand Canal is unparalleled.
Hotel ai Cavalieri is a 4-star luxury hotel just a short walk from the Rialto Bridge and minutes from St. Mark's Square. The hotel features 18th century frescoes and Venetian-style furnishings. All the chandeliers and sconces are from genuine Murano glass (which I'll tell you more about below!). Our room faced the picturesque canals and was elegantly furnished. I booked this room through my Chase Sapphire Reserve rewards and, knowing it was my birthday trip, the staff made sure I had a special treat upon arrival! The wonderful food, friendly staff, and perfect location make Hotel ai Cavalieri a top on my list of luxury accommodations.
The majority of our time was spent wandering around the city slipping into interesting shops, pausing for a cafe latté, and practicing our limited Italian with the locals. Venice was once the richest city in Europe, trading silks and spices between the Middle East and the rest of the European continent. Many citizens displayed their wealth in the form of palaces along the Grand Canal and beautiful paintings and sculptures commissioned from the finest artists of the day. Remnants of this era exist in 2017 for your viewing pleasure!
Mother and I spent one whole afternoon just sitting at a cafe in Piazza San Marco marveling at St.Mark's Basilica, the Campanile and Doge's Palace. The Doge was the ruler of The Republic of Venice and resided in the Venetian gothic style palace until 1797. The palace was the first thing traders saw as they sailed in and docked at St. Mark's Square and unlike most medieval castles around Italy, this palace represents the culture and elegance that is Venice. The basilica, on the other hand is a byzantine-style building with elements of gothic, Venetian, and Roman influence. Mark Twain said it looked like "a vast warty bug taking a meditative walk." Between the dueling orchestras at the cafe-lined square and the beautiful architecture of the palace, basilica, and campanile, Piazza San Marco is a magical place.
Murano and Burano Islands
Venice is made up of over 100 islands with most clustered together making up the city center. There are water busses running from Venice to Burano Island and Murano Island, the two largest in the lagoon. Murano Island is famous for glass-blowing, and for centuries glass beads from Murano were used as money for trade by early explorers. We watched professional glass blowers and browsed the many unique pieces available for purchase.
Burano Island is a short 30 minute boat ride further out and definitely worth the trip. The picturesque cottages are a pastel palette that will have you snapping pictures at every turn. Legend has it the cottages are painted the same color as the fisherman's boat just in case they are lost at sea and the family needs to be notified! In addition to being known for these brightly colored homes, Burano is the lace-making island of the archipelago. The streets are filled with interesting shops and we chatted with locals sitting in the back of their shops busily tatting beautiful lace tablecloths, napkins, and scarves.
I'm always on a quest to eat like a local and that meant ordering risotto de gó, Burano's famous fish dish. The risotto is prepared in broth from the gó fish which is plentiful in the Venice lagoon and was delicious! There are tons of restaurants to choose from on both islands and I can personally attest to Riva Rosa Ristorante on Burano. Bravissimo!
Three days is not nearly long enough to explore all the lovely things in Venice but it was long enough for me to fall madly in love! I think Truman Capote may have put it best when he stated, "Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go."
Venezia, I will be back.
