[Текст на српском] February… sunny day… not a freezing one… trip… why not? Without a predetermined plan, we decide to go the path to Maglich with our hosts from Kraljevo. According to the unwritten rule, it always appears that such spontaneous excursions leave a deeper trace in experience and memories. Only the good mood and openness of the senses are enough. Unfortunately, we did not take the camera (which is proof that we did not prepare for this adventure). Fortunately (or misfortune), because of work (or a joy), mobile phones are always available, so they have been used again.
Maglich is about 20 km away from Kraljevo and is reached by a main road leading to Raska. It used to be the only Caravan route because it has connected the Morava valley and the Kosovo field. The city is located on the western slopes of Stolovo, 150 meters above the Ibar river. It is surrounded from three sides by a river, and pedestrians can only access it from the west, where a trench full of water used to be, so it looked like an island. The steep cliffs reach the top of the wall and the fortress.
The ascent to Maglich is a really adventurous. First, it is necessary to cross the hanging bridge over the Ibar river, and then by the narrow, curving paths, partly paved, reach the city.
There were about 200 medieval towns in Serbia, but Maglich is special one. Scientists consider it a classic example of military architecture.
Historical data on the origin of the city are mysterious. It is not known who built the fortress, probably in the 13th century. The first written data are from 1337 in the records of Archbishop Daniel II. There are several versions:
- Stephen the First-Crowned built Maglich in order to protect the monasteries Zhicha and Studenica, as well as the farther away Pech Patriarchate.
- Uros I (son of Stephen the First-Crowned) founded this military fort after the penetration of Tatars.
- The least likely version is that Jerina, the wife of despot Djuradj Brankovich, built the city. This would mean that it was built in the 15th century. There is still a tradition in the people calling it Jerina's city. The legend says that in the clouds and fog around the city, Jerina's soul is wandering.
The fortress is of an irregular shape, it has about 2000 square meters, 7 towers are about 10 meters high and the Citadel tower, which is twice as high and located at the highest point of fortification.
In the fortress itself, the remains of St. George's church are visible, a well sprinkled in the rock between the church and the walls, and the remains of two palaces. One belonged to the ruler, and the other was the seat of Archbishop Daniel II, who remained remembered as the author of the collection of the lives of medieval rulers.
There are three road today that wind at its base: the Ibar River, the main road and the railway.
The Ibar river with its rapids can be a great preparation for the more demanding Tara river. A cheerful down-the-river event is less famous than rafting on Tara, but for recreational people it's a more relaxed variant. More enjoyment — less risk.
After the city tour, we headed towards the railway line. We saw a brook being poured into Ibar, so we thought it was hiding something interesting. We did not repent. A deserted railway house in front of the entrance to the tunnel was waiting for us, and a bit further — a real surprise. Natural pool! If it only was a summer day. We decided, of course, to come back then, and why not, to take a swim in a clear brook.
There is a real pleasure in a good rest after these beauties. As opposed to Maglich on the Ibar highway, there is an extension with a beautiful cafe “Jerina”. Pancakes were a great reward for all the daily efforts. In front of the tavern there is a guide for all those who can and wish to socialize with nature.
Maglich today could be a really attractive tourist destination! What could be done?
- Restore the Lilac Valley. The French and Italians were interested in investing money, but it seems that we were not (?!). How would the valley look like when it bloomes and let it's fragrances! If this was possible in the Middle Ages, what now prevents us from planting ourselves? Why do we need donations and subsidies for that?
- The trails are well arranged, but there are no table notifications in the city itself. If you have not previously been informed, on the spot you won't find a thing.
- There is not at least a small object of a tourist organization. Modern tourists are accustomed to brochures, models, magnets, souvenirs… And one log cabin does not cost much.
As it is now, Maglich remains attractive only to untouched nature lovers who may not need any improvements. Good shoes, backpack, solid will and excellent fitness… What more? Satisfaction and enjoyment in nature require a simple and relaxed man.
Until next time!