If you read my last post, I’m sure it’s pretty clear, but I’ll say it again anyway: I had no idea where I was going. I had no plans, no expectations. The trip, overall, had one clear objective, and everything else would be seen as an extra treat.
So, to tell you about my experience in this city, you have to understand this trip as it really was: a blind date. Someone thought we’d like each other, although I really only thought about her (yes, her. Lima is the definition of a lady. It has strong facial features, it is elegant and dignified, but she has a very masculine vibe to her. She is of indigenous background but married a foreigner, and dresses very formal but with very bright colors, in case you were wondering. Like a cool grandma) as the one who would be my wingman in the process of meeting Macchu Pichu.
Yes, it sounds terrible, but it didn't end up like that, and that’s the great part about this story. Turns out Lima has wonderful things and she does not hide them. Still, this can’t be a travel guide or a you can’t miss this post, at all. This is a simple story about what I found when we met (and some explanations I gave myself when I actually did some research. That means, what I saw on our ‘date’ and what I found out when I stalked it over Facebook after coming home from it).
First impression: the road from the airport to the city is not the prettiest you get to see (something like when you see the person you’re about to date from afar and you hate their shoes), pero everybody has something kind of weird about them, and the airport road ugliness thing sort of happens in every city, so let’s not jump to conclusions.
The real first impression
(Insert the image from the Prince of Bel Air getting out of the taxi here) Miraflores. Ok, Lima is kind of cute. Tall, modern buildings, wide streets, the beach is right in front of us. Whatsthisthingyoubeingsopretty? Nobody told me about this (so yes, I walked in and saw my date and it sure was not ugly at all).
The first thing than came up was going out to eat. If you ask me, the move was not very original, but hey, this city knows she excels at the food department, so I think it was trying to show off. After our first lunch, if you ever get to to date it I’d tell you it doesn't matter if you do nothing but eating out (forgive me, Historical sites) but you have to eat. You must eat! If you think about it, using your big weapons in a first blind date can be a great tactic. Even if you stay friends, you will leave a good and lasting memory on the other person.
One thing that took me out of the infatuation cloud was a taxi driver almost crashing into another car next to us. I’m sorry if this is a generalization, but I found most people in Lima did not drive well. I relate this to a possible scenario where you start talking to your date and suddenly see a thing stuck in their teeth, or find out they hate something you love. It can be a warning, but not necessarily a reason to go away running from them.
Hey! Wait a minute. Why his the sky always grey? This may actually be a problem. I wanted to ask ‘Are you always in a cranky mood like this?’ First true deal breaker, because during the first two days I saw no sunshine at all. I can’t fall in love like this, grey skies are not so great in pictures. Does it have a terrible personality? Well, turns out there’s a meteorological reason for this to happen: Lima’s climate is subtropical, desert-like and humid, all at the same time. It means they have mild temperatures and it never rains, but it’s very humid and cloudy all the time. This being said, the travel god -and my charm, I like to think- granted me with blue sky for several hours on the days I wanted to take pictures and that made me very happy (so it may be cranky, but it smiles when I’m around. Nice)
Lima does not fool around: she only showed me her best side. Maybe she held out the no so great stuff so I wanted to date it again, since I hardly saw as much trash as most people say the did, every person I met was very polite and never once felt insecure. I might not have spent a sufficient amount of time there, but I sure want to go back.
My not so very practical tips
These tips are not travel guide rigorous at all, I shall remind you, but here they go. First things first: the Caracas-Lima flight was very early in the morning so I don't remember it that well, since I slept through it. Then, going from the Jorge Chavez International airport to Miraflores takes about 40 minute in a taxi, but we took a little longer since we couldn't find anyone to take 11 people with an average 5.9 feet plus the backpacks (except for me, I fit inside a carry on) and not charge a fortune for it. We eventually made it taking two minivans -airport official, always take the official ones- knowing the taximeters are not strict here and you can bargain a litlle, like we do in Venezuela. I found public transport to be efficient and safe overall.
The Historic Center is clearly a highlight there. Strolling through it is a must, and it’s incredibly photogenic, as almost everything in Peru. It’s also not a complicated tour, you can get to everything on foot. It’s also not a complicated tour, you can get to everything on foot. It takes a 5 minute walk from the Desamparados Station to the Government Palace, maybe 7 to Plaza Mayor. Once there, everything is 2 minutes away, except for San Martin’s Square.
The Main Square was designed by Francisco Pizarro (the main conquerer to live in Lima) and the fountain in the middle is ‘new’, since it was put there only two centuries ago or so.
The Government Palace was Pizarro’s house and since 1541 every ruler in the city has used it. It survived in major fire in the early 20th century.
I have no words for the Cathedral, since it’s one of the most beautiful ones I’ve visited. You can also see the religious museum right next to it.
The Archbishop’s Palace has lovely balconies, most of them original from when they were built
San Martin’s Square, dedicated to Jose de San Martín, the argentine general who liberated Argentina, Chile and Peru.
You must also go to the San Francisco de Lima Monumental Complex, even though it’s outside the Historic Circuit. That’s the place to visit the Catacombs, known to the public since 1951.
A thing you may not know: you can go and take a tour inside the Congress buliding, and it’s free. It’s worth it and a great history lesson. I can’t remember what day was it I visited but in the web it says you can do it on weekends.
You may think pyramids are only in Egypt, Mexico and Central America but no, the Huac Pucllana is in Miraflores district’s heart. It was a sacred place where they would bury the pre-inca royalty,and there’s plenty to discover since it’s still being restored.
Even if it’s a bit far from what I considered the touristy part of the city, take a tour of the Gold Museum so you can take more of the culture in. I found the first floor to be a bit odd, since it has armoury, weapons and things like that, but the gold displayed it’s truly a work of art.
We also went to Los Polvos Azules, a big market. Not really a tourist attraction, but we visited out of curiosity and necessity (someone plugged in a Playstation with no power converter and that’s where we were told to go fix it). It has lots of merchandise - I presume most of it not original-. Go if you feel like exploring, not taking any valuables with you.
We obviously went to a futbol (soccer) match at the Estadio Nacional. I always try to go to a match or at least a stadium tour in every city I go, since I love futbol. It was quite an experience: getting last minute tickets, watching a small child enjoying the match with his father sitting next to us.
The Magic Water’s Circuit - Parque de la Reserva has a Guiness Record and I suggest you visit it during the night, so you enjoy the light and music display. It is also a very lovely visit during the day but it really comes to live during the night, and it can even be quite romantic. The entrance fee is 12 soles (less than 4 dollars) and you can enjoy other installations and get into the fountains.
Lima’s Chinatown is one of the biggest in the continent and it’s the place to find Chifas. Turns out right next to this park there was one of them and we had to try it. I’m not really sure on how well the sanitation of this place was, but the taste definitely made up for it. Chifas are Peru’s take on asian cuisine and it’s D E L I C I O U S. Remember eating is a primordial activity in town so taste anything you can get your hands on. I remember going to a place called El Pez-on (a spanish word game probably meaning The Niple or something, not really sure) I’m not sure it’s still there but it had amazing sea food. Also, make sure you go to little the little restaurants/hostels where you can find a whole lunch for less than 3 dollars. If you’re on a budget also check out the supermarkets where you can purchase prepared food by the weight and try the All-you-can-eat venue in Larcomar. The other thing we did was cooking where we were staying.
Talking about Larcomar, I’m not one to love malls but I enjoyed this one. It’s open, with an amazing ocean view and the paraglides pass just above it. You should also go down and test the cold (very cold) Pacific waters and even try surf lessons. I didn't but some of the guys did and there loved it.
Other than that, I would suggest you walk a lot. Try the Inca Cola (too sweet for me, though) and la chicha morada, pet some peruvian dogs, marble at how many cooking schools there can be in a single city (Lima is the Gastronomic Capital of latin america). Use public transportation, realising people in general are very kind and polite in this country and unlike me, go prepared so you see everything you want to. I definitely want to go back, there’s so many things I didn't do! But now that I’ve done my research, I’ll eventually do a post on what’s not to miss in this town. If you haven’t, go read my Welcome to Peru post.
How did this blind date turn out? Well, while I didn't fall helplessly in love, I sure thought it was a sight for sore eyes. We treated each other nicely and I feel it was a short but sweet affair, since I would immediately had an intense week with a guy called Macchu (see what I did there? hehe) and I had to go back homer the holidays, anyway. We always knew it wouldn't be something for long term commitment but we eventually text and I cant help but wonder what would happen if I came back. We remain friends so we will probably pick everything of where we left it, and do it all over again! !
(All photos are mine and I drew the map, based on Google Maps)