On June 3, 2017, we pass the border of Belize and we arrive in Guatemala.
Guatemala was a pleasant and unexpected surprise because we never thought we could discover such a wonderful state, rich in culture boasting more than 20 native languages only handed down, rainforests, beautiful colonial cities amongst all the beautiful Antigua with its fabrics colorful still used to make traditional garments, with different designs and colors for each village.
And still lakes, history, nature, traditions and gastronomy.
Between Belize and Guatemala there is only one BORDER to pass ... and we walked it with our backpacks
The first stop is in Flores, a small village overlooking Lake Peten.
FLORES
Flores is a small village where it normally stops as the starting point for the Maya city of Tikal
Having visited many Mayan ruins in Mexico we chose to skip the visit of this ruin and stay in Flores just the time to see the lake.
Flores is marvelous with its colonial colonial houses, the narrow streets and restaurants that give it directly to the lake.
Flores's peculiarity is that you can walk on foot, walk through the center or walk on the picturesque promenade across the lake.
Here in Flores you move like this
Country you change the way you find it
In this bar we enjoy a tasty Guatemalan coffee, whose cultivation dates back to 1773 and is one of the best in the world.
Here in Flores there is not much to do, so 2/3 days here are more than sufficient and then gone ... we are ready to start again!
I'm going to go to the jungle.
So we'll see you at Semuc Champey
COMFORTABLE on our journey to the world
Along the way to Flores to Samuch Champey, there are wonderful meetings
These women literally surrounded us to sell us a whole strain of bananas for very little money
Lanquín
When you arrive at Lanquin we come across a bizarre bus to take us to our hostel called Hostel Verde Vista
Let's quickly make friends with Nacito, who tells us he is carrying our breakfast.
We look around and immediately think we've come to a terrestrial PARADISE
Our home here at the Hustal Green View is on the stilts
All in wood and with the straw roof
Hope we do not get the wolf, we think.
In the jungle we are camouflaged in our home
In the hostel is enlarged day by day and the work never ends, early in the morning everyone is working to fit the straw roof of the new home they are building.
Despite the fatigue, always smile on the mouth
This guy carries behind the necessary material to fix the roof
Back and forth all day !!
So it begins in the morning at the Vista Vista Green
Muy rica breakfast. Peace and tranquility.
What a family show we met. The BOLOM family
Getting to Semuc Champey is very unlikely from any point in Guatemala you arrive, you can only get along a lot of dirt road, with a result of 5-7 hours of travel at least.
The closest town to Semuc is Lanquin, oddio call it town center is really a compliment, it is 200 meters of street with houses, a couple of shops like supermarket, a few bakers and two restaurants.
The Hostel Vista Verde where we lodge is wonderful immersed in green as we like it
We loved this place because we did not know what was waiting for us
The hostel is very close to the Rio and when we walked to the cold morning in the morning, we always met Guatemalan women who washed the cloths.
Other than washing machines !!
Walking then for Lanquin we did a sweet discovery ...
But do you know what PATERNA is?
Let's explain it in this video ...
SEMUCH CHAMPEY
Our stop at Lanquin was to visit Semuch Champey, famous for its natural pools immersed in the forest.
This 13-year-old little boy called Matteo was our precious guide to Semuc Champey
The jungle for him is his home and does not frighten him.
After hours of walking we arrived at the Mirador to see the spectacular natural limestone pools in the woods
It was not easy to get to the top because the hot heat did not help us though ... But nothing stops!
Spectacular the panorama seen from the top of the natural pools where we just drank at a very short time
An incredible natural heritage
Semuc Champey is one of the magic places in Guatemala, but it is an out of the reach of everything, isolation that preserves it from mass tourism.
Semuc Champey Park offers one of the most exclusive and unique shows of all of Guatemala.
But the most remarkable thing is that below the natural pools runs in all its fury the Rio Cahabon, which apparently managed to avoid the landslide of the surrounding mountains, channeling into the underground meanders.
This phenomenon is clearly visible at one point, right behind the natural pools, where, looking out, you can admire all the irrigation of the Rio and better understand the particularity of Semuc Champey
I Love Guatemala
Our phenomenal guide Matteo is driving us to discover his land
Here we are!
Now we enjoy Semuc Champey's natural pools
Who would have thought we'd be here?
Semuc Champey with its natural pools
Guatemala loves us a lot
From the mountain we followed the path to go to the swimming pools and finally swim and have fun.
Our guide Matteo has let us pass from one pool to the other slipping on the polished rocks and swimming in turquoise and clean waters.
Wonderful Guatemala
Back in the late afternoon at Hostal Vista Green, we were wrapped up by the incredible sweetness of these two women: Sonia and Lorena.
The beautiful lavanders at the river
What a surprise this return to the past
Among the many things we could do during our stay at Hostal Vista Verde was to learn the art of chocolate.
So today we have become chocolates
Exciting to see and do the chocolate directly
Thanks Rosalina and Elena to teach us this ancient Guatemalan tradition
Also this is Hostal Vista Verde
Luca, a chocolate future.
The problem is that it is more the one that eats than the one it creates
It was exciting to be welcomed by Elena in her own home
Thanks Elena for your welcome
If I think we women are embarrassed when someone comes home and there is a bit of disorder
I Love Guatemala and her humanity
What an EMOTION to see the happiness of this great Bolon Family that is slowly completing this corner of paradise that could not have such an accomplished name.
At Vista Vista Verde in less than a month GREAT inauguration: the SWIMMING POOL
What a wonderful feeling to be part of them and share the thrill of their pool under construction
In Hostel Green View we felt at home
Guatemala's discovery continues
The reality of the Lanquin market makes us think about how easy life is
This is Vilfida, one of the Bolon family's sisters, who, in addition to helping Vista Vista, has its own butcher shop in the center.
We are at the Lanquin market and have never seen such giant carrots
Hurrying for the Lanquin market amidst a multitude of people.
This is Vilfida's On The Road butchery
Of the bull, only the "jewels"
The good thing about living in a hostel is that we know a lot of new friends every day
Here in Guatemala it begins in the morning with breakfast and play together.
Here is our friend Alice coming from Alaska, who spins the world alone.
On Sunday what do you do? You go to the Lanquin procession
How does life flow here to Lanquin
Slow ... and Quiet ...
Our corner of paradise seen from above.
Hostal Vista Verde
In this shot I thought of the frenzy of modernity and the charm of slowness
Feeling a whole one with nature. This is the road that leads from the hostel to the center of Lanquin.
What a wonder to dive your feet in the mud.
Today we walked for 10km to the Lanquin jungle
Suns with the noises of nature
From above, the drone makes even the most of the idea.
Hostal Green View our FAMILY Guatemala
Precisely because we love to know deeply the cultures of the peoples we meet today I made a nice chat with Oscar, asking him:
How do the NASCITES plan in Q'eqchi 'religion?
Oscar, one of the brothers of the Bolon family, a family father shared with me the culture of his "Q'eqchi" religion about family planning.
Gracias Oscar
We stayed at the hostel 15 days and when it arrived last day we thought we would celebrate with them our departure for everything they did for us.
"Gracias de todos ve we bring in the corazon en todo El mundo"
In every country we go to we always meet an incredible family welcome
The mother of the Bolon family last night came to the party for us.
The Bolom family made us feel at home.
Gracias !!!!
We did prepare a cake with a special dedication from the country pastry maker.
On June 25, 2017, we leave Lanquin to continue for Antigua.
We choose as a transport company "Cobán Travels Operador de Turismo" and we make a wonderful trip.
Of this we thank Cesar and Leonel for the attention they have had to us.
And here begins our adventure by bus to Antigua
I had heard of long and endless bus trips and instead we went to the great one
Our travels are always an adventure.
We left Hostal Vista Verde at Lanquin for Antigua aware we would have spent 9 hours of trip between dirt roads, half-paved and highways under construction
I'm traveling the means of transport was SUPER !!
comfortable seats, air conditioning, super tested driver and great company made the trip FANTASTIC
Thank you Cesar, Leonel of Coban Travel and our legendary driver Isaiah
ANTIGUA
We arrived in Antigua and discovered another amazing Guatemala city
This land loves us so much for its culture and for the Guatemalan that are 'lovable men'
How I like these Guatemalan women rich in colors and sweetness
Will Luca do not buy anything?
Getting involved in a Corpus Domini procession in Antigua is normal.
The church is WONDERFUL
We are discovering wonderful places
I Love Guatemala
How do you do not stay enchanted and not fill your backpack
Luca we need to find a solution
ACATHANIC VULCAN
In Antigua we decide to go on the volcano Acatenango climbing to 3,976 meters.
We were prepared psychologically and also practically with what we needed to climb this high volcano and stay on its top one night to enjoy the night-time eruption of the Fuego volcano that weeping in front of us.
It was a very hard hike, with a height difference of 1,700 mt.
Tired was so much. The backpacks weighed on the shoulders and the slope tired the legs incredibly.
The altitude also created the rarefied area and everything did not help climb.
We were in the group and the guides were ADORABLE.
They take the time for everyone to arrive with their own time, if there was a need to stop for breath they were always there with us.
It was an emotion to make it !! Be up to the top.
I did not want to give up !!!
For the first time in my life I climbed a mountain so high. To be honest. I had never climbed a mountain: -))
Acatenago THANK YOU!
With this dawn seen from the top the next morning my mind felt light and free from all thought. The sky was so close to us that we really needed a finger to touch it.
We made it big I'm around.
Campfire on a volcano in Guatemala
Acatenango is one of the three volcanoes that surround the city of Antigua in Guatemala.
Facing, Fuego every ten minutes gives rise to a glowing show of ash and lapilli: camping at night on Acatenango has allowed us to observe this show from a privileged point of view.
We decided to go there, despite the effort to get up there.
Thinking about sleeping in a tent in front of an active volcano has made me excited
Ronald our guide was an indispensable support to ensure the success of our tracking on the Acatenango volcano
Our companions Anna & Cristobal, almanni, were a great company
Thank you so much.
Waiting for the night is ready for the nightly show that will reserve the active Fuego volcano
Brrrrrrr that cold !!! Worse than we had brought the clothes needed to cover us.
Eccolloooo !! the Fuego volcano with the nightfall of the night with all gas
What a breathtaking spectacle
When ever I would have imagined that I would be so close to an active volcano
We got over the clouds
Without words
Evvivaaaa we reached 3.976 mt
We are walking on the mouth of the volcano
Who would ever have imagined it
What a surprise this Guatemalan boy we met on the way.
When the next day we woke up at 4:00 in the morning to continue the climb to the top my heart beat to 1000, I was tired, my legs hard and feel the ground slipping under my feet with the fear of slipping toward low was so much.
Luca kept me tight with the rope tied to life and together we got to the top.
We made it!!! L0 performance from above was indisputable. A great wind and an incredible cold caught us.
Increasing silence! Only our breathing and the beat of our heart.
Slowly then the downhill started and when we came to the base I felt that I had a dream come true.
Experience that gives me the tear of joy and excitement now!
Returning to Antigua every morning was a habit to have breakfast at the market.
Here in Guatemala, mothers do their job bringing their children with them
That's normal
This child has less than 1 month and his mom keeps him alongside while cooking at the market
For me to see its sweetness and the naturalness with which it cares it makes me wonder how the western world has gone mad
I Love Guatemala and her humanity
We leave Antigua to head to Atitlan Lake, which the Mayans claimed was the umbilicus of the world.
Nestled between three tough volcanoes, Lake Atitlan is a terrestrial paradise that we could not see.
On its banks are 12 small villages, one more beautiful than the other. We chose to see 4: Panajachel, Santiago, San Pedro and San Marco.
The first country we visit will be Panajachel.
From Antigua to Panajachel we went to chicken bus
New exciting experience!
3 hours sharing all together passionately.
This is also Guatemala
We arrived at Panajechel on Lake Atitlan. Here everyone calls it Pana.
PANAJECHEL - LAKE ATITLAN
This country is the most equipped and tourist center of the whole lake. In fact, in its main street there are a lot of hotels, restaurants, and traditional stalls.
Here we have discovered the wonderful Guatemalan culture
Women are wonderful and good sellers
This country was the starting point for visiting the characteristic Chichicastenango market.
Guatemala loves us a lot.
CHICHICASTENANGO
Today we went to immerse ourselves in one of the most beautiful and colorful markets in the center of America: the Chichicastenango market
Chichicastenango is the most famous and picturesque market in Guatemala
Let go of her cuddles, captured by scents and colors
During the Chichicastenango market a multitude of indigenous peasants come from across the country
San Tomas is the main church of Chichicastenango, whose entrance on the market days takes place from side entrances because the steps leading up to the main door are considered sacred and therefore become a place to burn incense in the sense of devotion.
I love papaya and mango
SANTIAGO - LAKE DE ATITLAN
The culturally most interesting village of Atlitan Lake in Guatemala is without a doubt Santiago de Atitlán.
One of the most characteristic elements of Santiago de Atitlan is a symbolic and mythological figure for the inhabitants of this village called Maximon
It's kind of old wood, a symbol that is guarded by local families who send it from year to year. San Simon does 3 main things: he smokes a huge cigar and drinks ardaent, is watched day and night by family members and sleeps at 6 o'clock in the afternoon goes to bed and lays in a real bedroom
We went to visit him accompanied by Miguel, our guide.
We were told that it is good practice to make an offer to cheer the spirit, and we brought a liqueur as advised by Miguel.
There is a figure who is an intercessor between the people and Maximon who is a shaman, who deals with all the ceremonies.
In the house we witnessed silence at the ceremony, I would never have imagined such a rite!
The Maximon is a symbol of religious syncretism typical of Guatemala, every month of May (Marian month) the Maximon changes the house and changes the house to be accompanied by a saint, then when moving to the new home, all past saints are also transferred.
Guatemala is giving us amazing experiences that help us grow.
We had the opportunity to participate in a shamanic rite in the presence of Maximon, a wooden statue, built with the wood of the fire tree (the palo de pito whose flowers smoked along with the tobacco cause hallucinations) Maximon is always elegant, ties and double-breasted, glamorous dresses and two hats in the head, sometimes wearing sunglasses.
The illustrious people of the village, generally a member of a cofradia (seniors' councils), race to accommodate him, Maximon has to devote a whole year to a room that becomes a continuous day and night pilgrimage.
People feed him all night, offering great gifts, candles, fire, cigars, liquor.
We in the gift brought the liquor
SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA - ATITLAN
San Pedro La Laguna is, together with Panajchel, the most touristy pueblo. It has a small center that winds everything up a street with typical shops and stalls.
We have found a way to make a peaceful football challenge: Italy against Guatemala
Who will win??
SAN MARCOS - ATITLAN LAKE
After Panajchel, Santiago and San Pedro, we ended up in a pueblo called S.Marcos
There is so much peace to meditate, to do yoga and to know more about Guatemalan traditions
The kids when they see us pass us greet us by beating 5 with the tiny hand and send us kisses
This sweet little girl has conquered my heart
Guatemalan women's moments of life
They spend so much time washing clothes strictly by hand
They always smile
I love them!!
Thus the Guatemalteans defend themselves from the molestation animals that they encounter in the jungle
Looking for a yoga center in the forest we lost and ... we did an amazing discovery
If you are curious look at this video
After we got lost in the forest we were retrieved by these 2 charming Guatemaltechs who guided us to see so much beauty
A glimpse of the Atlitlan lake
To protect the crop a scary original sparrows
Coffee plantations everywhere.
Now here in Guatemala is winter so we have to wait for the summer to mature, that is December
San Marcos la Laguna is a small quiet pueblo on Atitlan Lake.
Pueblo has become a spiritual center for meditation, yoga and massage centers
Here is an air of peace
The country of San Marcos is all a color
Men carry huge weights on their backs
No one complains!
Moments of life in San Marcos on Lake Atitlan
I love guatemalan kitchens
I like our Guatemalan home
All straw
Why do not we build houses like this in Italy?
After leaving Lake Atlitan we return to Antigua for a short break and then depart for the capital: Guatemala City.
CITY OF GUATEMALA
We arrived in Guatemala City and are careful to travel only in the safest part of the city. Zone 1 is located in the center of the city and we only visit the old town, where the ancient colonial palaces revolve.
They had alarmed us about the state of danger and so we preferred to stay in the safe areas for tourists.
The capital has reserved a 'royal' welcome - Hotel Royal Palace GT
We thought we were going to say two words to the Governor of Guatemala
We stay in the capital one night and the next day we resume our journey back to Antigua ..
All near neighbors in the pulman
Here in Guatemala is used to celebrate a girl when she is 15 years old with princess clothing and photographic service
In Antigua we want to dine with a typical dish and we choose the restaurant "La Fonda" because we thought that even if Bill Clinton chose it
this restaurant ... there will be a reason.
Great dinner in perfect Guatemalan style.
We return to Antigua and on July 23, 2017 we leave Guatemala temporarily to enter El Salvador, then return to us on July 28, 2017 to end up seeing the high part on the border with Honduras.
So it is time to cross the border of Guatemala
We are sorry to leave Guatemala because it is truly a wonderful land and it has given us great emotions, but we know how to get back shortly and so ... we'll gladly leave with our backpack.
Here we are waiting for the coach to depart for El Salvador.
On July 27, 2017, we leave El Salvador heading back to Guatemala to discover the "Rio Dulce".
We made an AVENTURAL journey by changing 10 buses and past 2 borders: Honduras and Guatemala
It was adrenaline especially when we left the Honduras border we found a road more than 1 km to walk on to get to the next border, Guatemala.
We were alone, in nothing, and with so many questions ...
Above all, but arrived at the border there will be a bus that will take us to "Esquipulas", a city right after the border?
Already the name is all a program !!!
With our backpacks we felt a lot of "Indiana Jones" and without bothering, hand in hand, laughed and we thought how much life is really strange.
The feeling I had was just that slow running of our lives that step by step brings us everywhere.
ESQUIPULAS
And here we come to Esquipulas, home of Black Christ, a small town with a wonderful church.
Here in Guatemala it is said that Quirio Cataño, sculptor of the image of Jesus on the cross, incarnated the Lord of Esquipulas, in conformity with the dark skin of the ancient inhabitants of Chiquimula, of chol or chortí ethnicity.
I have never seen so many devout people
Esquipulas is our starting point to get to Rio Dulce.
When you are on a bus, you are deceived
Often they are more present sellers than travelers!
A sale continues ... one behind the other !!
Before or after something buy. You can not feel a different one.
After 7 hours of traveling by changing 3 coaches, under a hot torrid, blocked by a demonstration that protested .. we arrived in the mangroves of the Rio Dulce
RIO DULCE
The Rio Dulce is an emerald water arm that connects the large lake to the sea and the navigation lasts just over a couple of hours before reaching Livingston, a small village at the mouth of the river: the canyon that crosses is really impressive with tall and steep walls covered by the jungle.
Our arrival at Rio Dulce in Guatemala was dense with emotions.
After leaving Esquipulas, after having changed three buses, with a 7-hour run, with a heat that made you swallow the tongue in your mouth, blocked by a tuk tuk event, arrived late in the afternoon at the port of Rio Dulce without knowing what to expect to meet ...
Our arrival at Hotel Kangoroo was a WONDERFUL SURPRISES. A hotel hidden in the mangroves.
Soak in the water in this location found casually along the Rio Dulce
Luca nooooo do not do it !!
Tarzan in the Rio with crocodiles can be risky
At this creative stage the Rio Dulce facilitates
The RIO DULCE made us stay speechless ...
Immersed in vegetation, among birds, crocodiles and so much peace ...
We salute our hostel in the middle of the Rio Dulce mangroves before leaving for a new adventure
Tonight you sleep in the mangroves along the Rio Dulce in Casa Perico
We stay a few nights and then we are ready to depart for Livingston by boat in Rio Dulce. An adventure.
The boat that led us to Livingston ran very hard and drove the Rio Dulce almost without touching the water! It flew ....
Speed up the Rio Dulce!
The Rio Dulce is an emerald water arm that connects the large lake to the sea and sailing lasts just over a couple of hours before reaching Livingston, a small village at the mouth of the river.
The canyon that crosses is really impressive with the tall and steep walls covered by the jungle
At 45 minutes from the Rio Dulce Bridge we met this well-known place known as 'Aguas Caliente'
This place has the character of having thermal water.
Thermal water in Rio Dulce?
Yes, the Río Dulce is located on a geological slope that allows the warmth of the earth's corpse to rise, creating a hot thermal water.
In this stretch of Rio Dulce River, you meet the first straw roof houses and continue along the long and narrow lake called El Golfete, which stretches for about 10 miles before you begin to sneak through spectacular gorges immersed in the thickest and lush vegetation.
It is here that materializes the true beauty of this scenario where delicate water lilies are the punctuation of this enchanting secret glimpse.
Wonderful!!!
LIVINGSTON
Finally, after weaving over the waters of Rio Dulce, we came to Livingston, the heart of Garifuna culture, and the main tourist center of the Caribbean coast.
The village is populated by people of color who welcomes you in a fun way with a lot of reperers.
They say that before the Caribbean side of Guatemala became a tourist attraction, Livingston and its coastline were something really wild.
Only a few fishermen's hut and few dwellings focused around what is now considered to be the historic core of the city.
There were no services, no way to get here in a simple way.
And in this corner of tropical forest, the Garifuna had fled.
The presence of the Garifuna population in the Caribbean regions of Guatemala, Belize, Honduras and Nicaragua dates back to the 17th century when their ancestors were taken from Africa to work in local plantations as slaves.
Over time, African slaves mingled with the natives, but maintained their own traditions and customs, which still prevail in food, music (tribal rhythm and percussion) and a totally relaxed lifestyle.
A fun !!
We stop at Livingston just a few hours and then resume the voyage to Puerto Barrios where we will spend the night.
The next day a long journey awaits us! It is time to leave Guatemala after 2 months EXTRAORDINARY.
In Guatemala we felt FAMILY and we will bring to the heart a WONDERFUL people. Thank you!!!!
Our journey now goes on ... let's find a new country: the HONDURAS
On August 3, 2017, there are many hours of BUS and ship waiting for us
Let's see you there ... among the Hondurans. Follow us ....
Namastè
Elisa & Luca