Nine miles south of Tucson, Arizona, just off interstate 19, a beautifully ornate white building stands in stark contrast to the endless blue sky and surrounding dusty desert. This breathtaking structure is San Xavier del Bac Mission, the oldest existing European structure in the United States. We had the pleasure of visiting the mission last November, and it is stuck in my memory as one of the grandest and most interesting buildings we had seen on our cross country roadtrip. If you find yourself wandering around southern Arizona, a trip to San Xavier will be well worth your time, whether you consider yourself religious or not.
The first thing you will notice about San Xavier del Bac Mission is its exquisite architecture. The Baroque architecture with both Moorish and Byzantine influences leads to a stunning edifice. This National Historic Landmark is often referred to as “the white dove of the desert” for its striking, white stucco exterior. While the church was founded in 1700, construction on the existing structure did not begin until 1783 and was not completed until 1797. The building itself has an immense and vibrant history, including tidbits like the construction of the eastern tower was never completed because the crew ran out of money and the western tower has been rebuilt several times due to destructive lightning strikes.
In the 17th and 18th century Catholic missions were a ubiquitous aspect of Spanish colonization. As the Spanish conquered the surrounding lands, they aimed to expand the influence of their culture by building settlements based around these churches that aimed to bring their religion to the native people. This particular mission was built in the middle of what is now the Tohono O'odham (meaning “Desert People”) reservation. While you are visiting the mission, be sure to check out some of the Tohono O’odham shops just south of mission parking lot, which feature American Indian arts and crafts, local paintings, jewelry, and more.Every vendor we encountered in these shops was personable, welcoming, and knowledgeable about the products they sold. In the parking lot, you may have the option to purchase fry bread, which has a legendary reputation.
Inside the mission, you will be mesmerized by the intricate art and decorations that cover most of the church. The dazzling paintings and sculptures are everywhere in the mission, it would takes hours, or perhaps days, to take it all in. There is no fee to enter, however donations are accepted. If you are moved to light a candle, they can be purchased for $3 in the gift shop. As an active church, mass is still held daily in the mission and attendance is open to all visitors.
If you are in this region, don’t hesitate to spend a beautiful afternoon in the Arizona sunshine, exploring the grounds of San Xavier del Bac Mission. Or go inside and witness an ancient structure unlike any other in the country, and allow yourself to get swept up in the sacred hush that falls upon this beautiful building.
