Our first day of pilgrimage did not actually involve any walking. The first thing we had to do is to survive the night in San Sebastian, the first location from where we decided to start our journey. And we had plenty to do before we began our first steps towards Santiago de Compostela.
Actually, the official start of Camino del Norte begins in Irun, which is a city on the border of France. We started one stage after it because for some reason we thought it is the right thing to do. It doesn’t really matter that much anyway.
So, on the day 0, we arrived from Madrid airport straight to San Sebastian. It was around 4 p.m., so apparently, we already made our first mistake of arriving too late. We were completely lost in this city, didn't know where to go, where to sleep or where to find a place to get our pilgrim credentials which is important if you want to stay in albergues and make the whole journey official.
The first thing we did is we went to the information center. We asked where could we stay there and the guy gave us the whole map with every single hotel, hostel, pension, and albergue there is in the city. Since the city was pretty large and we were already tired after a trip from Lithuania, walking around and asking seemed tiresome. But first, we had to get our credentials with the official stamp of pilgrimage.
So, the guy said there are two places where we can do this – a church and a pilgrim center of some sorts. First, we visited a church since it was pretty close to us, but there was nobody inside. Then, we went to this pilgrim center which for some reason was closed. Anxiety started to kick in pretty quickly at that moment. Confused as we were, we just went back to the church in hopes to eventually find someone to talk to.
We got lucky. There was a guy sitting next to the table. I asked him if we could get the credentials for walking. He didn’t understand a single word since almost nobody in Spain speaks English, but he got the idea of what we were asking of him. So, we filled up our credentials with necessary information, paid 2 euros each for it and got our first official stamp.
We were ready to go. But where?
I took a peek at the map. We knew that places called “albergues” are the ones we’re supposed to go to since those are the cheapest and made exclusively for pilgrims, but most of them were too far away. So, we just wandered around and checked the closest ones.
It was extremely frustrating. The first place we went to was full. The second place we went to was full. The third place we went to ask for 120 euros for a night. Fourth place asked for 80 euros each. Eventually, we went to a place that was recommended by a guy from the information center. He said it is the cheapest option (which was a lie), so we went there.
The receptionist asked us if we reserved a bed. Of course, we didn't, so he said: "sorry guys, it is full". I think at that moment he saw our sad pathetic faces, desperation, and readiness to just give up, so he told us we should try this place where his friend works and ask if they have a bed there. He gave us hope, so we continued our search with renewed spirits.
The map he gave us was not exact, so after walking around the block three times we couldn’t find anything that would even resemble a hostel. Lucky for us, a passenger noticed our confusion and asked if we are looking for something specific. We showed him the address and he pointed us in the right direction. THANK GOD!
Eventually, we found a place, though it didn't have a good vibe to it. We asked if they have any beds available, and they did. 35 euros each. “F*cking hell", I thought. How do pilgrims walk like this?! Do you have to be rich to go on a pilgrimage?? If every single place is going to be like that, how the hell are we supposed to finish the journey?? Anyway, at that point, we didn't even care, because we were too tired to look for another place and we had to get some good sleep before we start our first day of walking.
So, what do you get for 70 euros? A small room with two beds, one cabinet and enough space to turn around. Also, a shared bathroom and shared kitchen, which they locked at night with our food inside and didn’t open it before we had to leave in the morning. Other than that, it was good enough to get some rest.
I remember very clearly what I was thinking that night while lying in the bed. I thought that I just want to go home because this journey already seemed too difficult, intense and tiresome, full of uncertainty and challenges I’m not ready to face. I was scared and full of doubt about the whole thing, but there was no way I could escape it. But when I woke up surrounded by quietness and peace of mind I understood that this adventure is exactly what I need. My life, in general, was not that different anyway. It was always full of crazy, stupid sh*t and this is not so far away from what I am used to. This is just another adventure, just another page in my book of insanity.
Just before I made my first step towards Santiago, I was sure this trip was going to be something that will reward me in ways I couldn’t comprehend yet. I can tell you right now that I was right, and we will get to that part eventually.
More about our pilgrimage:
Camino del Norte: My 787 km Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela
Camino del Norte: Choosing and Packing Your Backpack