Arrive in Osaka, Japan. Head south. Don’t stop until the tips of your shoes touch the slopes of Mount Kōya. Listen to the whispers on the wind. Can you hear voices from centuries ago? These ancient mountains and enormous trees are saturated with spirituality, dripping with sacred sites, pilgrimage routes, and most importantly – the unearthly Okunoin Cemetery.
The History
Mount Kōya was first settled in the year 819 by Buddhist monk and civil servant, Kūkai. Emperor Saga approved Kūkai’s request to establish a retreat on Mount Kōya’s and, atop the mountain, Kūkai’s holy rituals formed the basis of Shingon Buddhism. He eventually died on Mount Kōya in the year 835. Legend has it, Kūkai’s spirit remains alive, meditating and waiting for the future Buddha. And this makes the location extremely sacred for the Buddhists of Japan.
After his death, ancient Japanese people sought to be buried beside Kūkai, and a graveyard began to gradually surround the mausoleum. Today, the tombstones expand for miles, making Okunoin Cemetery the largest in Japan. And people are still being buried here. Visitors can see polished, new headstones beside ancient ones covered with lush, green moss. Thus, the oldest grave in Okunoin is around 1,000 years old.
My Experience
During my trip through Japan, I experienced many facets of Kyoto, Tokyo, and Osaka, but this day, exploring the far corners of Okunoin Cemetery, affected me the strongest. At the entrance, the pristinely paved road seemed to lead visitors into another realm, and I followed the path to that unseen ethereal dimension. Patches of (authentic and fabricated) flowers bloomed beside tombstones in all stages of decay, and clean red bibs adorned the many statues of Buddha. The trees stretched to the sky, trunks so large that ancient people probably nursed them as saplings. The unpaved, side paths twisted through the trees, leading me on a labyrinthian journey around the half-melted candles, loving trinkets, and hand-carved Japanese calligraphy.
The most impactful experience within the cemetery was walking through the Temple to Kūkai’s small mausoleum. No photography was allowed in the area, but the mental images still remain. The Temple vibrated with energy and wisps of incense thickened the air and curled around the hair of worshippers. I followed the wooded path to the rear of the Temple and approached a golden house accented with massive bouquets. A large group of visitors bowed before the structure with their hands pressed together in prayer, singing a gorgeous hymn in unison. More threads of incense rolled through the air above our heads, blessing the air with a heavy, pleasant scent. After bowing to Kūkai, I followed the path forward. It led underneath the Temple to shelves of hundreds of miniature Buddhas and a ceiling crowded with glowing, red lamps. Each tiny Buddha contained hair from devoted worshippers, placed underneath the Temple for more blessings. Robed monks passed through the halls, pacing with soft feet. And suddenly, I was outside in the open air again.
It’s impossible to escape the significance of Okunoin Cemetery. The people of Japan from over a millennium ago lived, breathed, and were eventually buried here. Kūkai practiced and preached here. Buddhism itself was strengthened and defined here. The spirituality in the air is palpable; there is true magic surrounding such an expansive burial ground. Those of all beliefs can feel the weight of true reverence and awe, making Mount Kōya an ideal location for any curious traveler.
- Meredith / where-is-mer