Hi Friends,
This is the fourth part of my 1994 travels through Eastern Europe: Poland - Belarus - Russia - Estonia - Latvia - Lithuania - Poland.
If you are just coming on board, below is a link to earlier parts in this series on Eastern Europe 1994:
Part 1: Poland | Part 2: Poland | Part 3: Poland
If you'd like to switch to a different series of travel writings:
The Levant | 1996 | May 05 to May 08 | Part 1 – Egypt
If you have been following along from the beginning, welcome back 🔆
Thanks for reading
🚣
Thursday, 8 September 1994 | 22.15 | Overnight train Brest – Minsk (Belarus)
Crossed the border no problem – got a Belarus stamp in my passport as a souvenir and the guards didn't try extracting any money from me! I was very aware of the moment. The train stopped for 45 mintues and I, like everyone else, had to fill out a 'declarations' form. I felt quite insecure as is normal in the first few hours/days – not speaking the lingo, not even being able to read the alphabet. Plus there are lots of (to my mind) threatening-looking people with the potential for violence.
Anyhow, I finally managed to change 30 DM (1DM = 1700 Bilarus Roubles) and to buy a ticket for the overnight train to Minsk (21.15 – 7.00). Then, having 3 hours to spare, I went into Brest. I asked a woman in her late 20s for info, pointing to the bus and saying 'centrum'. She spoke no English or German but gave me a ticket for the bus. She wouldn't accept any money for it and she accompanied, or rather 'led' me to the centre of town. Where we got off, there was someone sitting on a bench reading. He turned out to be a guide for German speaking tourists visiting from Moscow and we conversed in German. The lady and her two kids sat down too – she was very friendly and presented me with a few bus tickets! I wasn't sure how to react. Anyhow she left after a while with my thanks and good wishes. I sat talking with Oleg, who told me a bit about Belarus and his job. We went for something to eat. It's pretty cheap (paid 2DM for a reserved berth on the overnight train, 410 km to Minsk). I said I might see him in Minsk when he gets there with his group of Germans.
Made the train. My coach was supposed to be number 20 and I'm all at sea! I was directed to number 14 and made to sit next to a person I eventually recognised as a woman. I offered her a cig and went into the hallway to smoke. Anyway, she appears to be mid-late 20s but its hard to say. Friendly, laidback and only speaks Russian. Also dirty and drunk, and perhaps for this last reason, she really took to me. It was fine, she has a pleasant smile and face. Can't remember her name or where she's going. She's sitting opposite, impatient for me to finish writing so she can continue poking me in the ribs to demonstrate various things and which, in her mind, probably help to overcome the language barrier. She even kissed my cheek and would have gone for my lips if I hadn't moved away quickly. She keeps wanting to put grapes in my mouth. I also had some of her vodka, which I drank out of my shaving-foam lid – vile stuff as expected! Anyway, she's pleasant enough when not poking me or embarassing me with declarations of love. She's not letting me write any more!
...later | 02.00
Not slept yet. Nina (for that's her name) has just left. I liked her in spite of the poking. She was very affectionate, almost motherly or elder-sisterly, not sexual at all. Indeed she wasn't very attractive – pleasant face and a great heart. She has a 13 year old daughter called Alyona (I think) and no husband. Very genuine and kept feeding me grapes with her dirty fingers and massaging my hands. Got on well despite the language barrier and the looks of our travelling companions. I hate caring about what they think, trying quite hard to ignore it – and outwardly almost succeeded. I gave her my coffee. A very kind, simple soul and I enjoyed the affection lavished on me – it was freely and genuinely given and nothing demanded.
I'm going to get some sleep (4-5 hours?) before tackling Minsk. Might spend a night there and see Oleg. He said he'd be free tomorrow evening and would like to see me. Nice people!
Friday, 9 September 1994 | 18.25 | Minsk (Belarus)
Slept for around 3 hours this afternoon after a shower, which made the hunting around for this really nice room in the Institute For Foreign Languages (12,000 = 7DM) worth it!
I slept a while on the train and we got in to Minsk around 8am. Was quite lost so I approached a Black man, who I knew would be likely to speak English (there are lots of Africans and South Americans in Eastern Europe). Allen was from Nigeria and gave me the address of the Institute. The first hotel didn't have room or they didn't want to put me up, and suggested going to another place. I started for the Institute but only had part of the name of the street. I walked and walked, and might well have given up but for some helpful people who directed me, and then some more who re-directed me!
At the Institute I had to go through a beaurocratic process. A well-dressed, blond-haired man had to write me a note to the manager of the 5th floor (which was the hotel). He did this in a fancy, flowing script. It was a short note, but it got the fat director to grunt his consent to his secretary, a nice elderly lady who insisted on cleaning out the room for me.
Slept till 4pm then walked out to the center of town, feeling better but still rather drowsy. It's a grand city – large buildings lining broad streets and clean sidewalks. Somehow it has an air of being distant and to my foreign eye, the people seemed silent and subdued in the Metro, although the women who were travelling were very beautiful.
Compared to Poland (and I imagine, Moscow), it is very uncommercialised. Foreign imports, especially alcohol, are very expensive and unlike Poland, you don't see many petty businesses. People still queue up in supermarkets which are not self-service!
I like the city! I wasn't sure, but in the Metro I thought I saw a little girl of maybe 7-8 years look at me and laugh to herself, covering her face with her arm. I was delighted, though I don't know why, or even if she was actually laughing! I haven't seen many beggars. Belarus doesn't seem to have moved on or opened up to the West that much. Perhaps they are cautious, or just not in the position i.e. not enough tourists. I really feel guilty sometimes about having relatively so much money. I had 5 cheese sandwiches and 2 cups of coffee for 1DM in a busy center of town cafe, for which I had to queue and ask one of the girls to write down what I wanted so that I could convey my order to the cashier!
Am getting on with learning the Russian alpahbet. I wanted to buy an English-Russian & Russian-English dictionary and asked a young, suited man where I might find one. Andrei, 22 years old and a qualified hydro-engineer but working with a holiday firm, walked me to three different bookshops in vain. He offered to sell me his 20,000 word English-Russian dictionary for $5 USD, but it was bulky and didn't go both ways. I made excuses, wanting to be alone anyway. Besides I was hungry, having had nothing to eat all day. I thanked him and said goodbye.
I walked around for a bit and here I am, back in the same cafe and still physically tired. I'm going to leave now.
...later | 01.25
Had an interesting evening with Oleg. I think Russians as a race are intelligent – perhaps more so than others! There are the Russian officer-types, with supercilious eyes and harsh young faces, but I mean the intellectuals. Look at the literature for example! This morning when asking for directions, I experienced a wonderful middle-aged example of this. The manner in which he spoke, with a learned air that made the language sound so full of expression. He wasn't able to help me though!
I got to Oleg's hotel around 8pm, which was full of tourists and prostitutes. We talked till after midnight and I found myself getting along well with him. He is 35, a bachelor and living North of Moscow. I imagine he is lonely and definitely displeased with the job he has held for 10 years. He told me that he was gay and although he attempted a pass at me, he understood that I wasn't interested. He insisted on paying $3 USD for a taxi back for me – a car that he hailed off the street. I could have walked but he insisted. I hated to have to accept this – he earns 150 DM per month + tips.
I'll get the overnight train to Moscow tomorrow. Thunder and lightening outside!
Saturday, 10 September 1994 | 14.00 | Minsk (Belarus)
I've just bought my ticket to Moscow – 38,295 Roubles ($14 USD). It's a long way and I leave at 21.08, getting in for 10.20 in the morning. I did not want to arrive there at night!
Woke up around 11.30 and left shortly after noon. I was able to request – with gestures, that I be permitted to leave my stuff behind – Yes!
I really like Minsk. At times I feel it has a subdued and diffident air, but with plenty of friendliness if you have the right attitude. Local products, the Metro, cafe food etc are so cheap, whereas imported stuff – cans, juice cartons, branded confectionary etc is displayed at prices similar to the West. Cigarettes and alcohol are dirt cheap. I'm paying 2.5 pfenning1 for the Metro and 50 pfenning for breakfast. They have 1 Rouble notes i.e. a fraction of a pfenning and 1/1700th of a Deutsch Mark! When I'm cheerfully asked for money, as has happened a few times, giving 50 or 200 Roubles is really nothing, but it has purchase value!
I wish I spoke Russian, even the basics. I know NOTHING! I did see a Russian-English dictionary for 7500 Rubles, but it was to big and heavy for my pocket and too advanced for any hopes I may have of acquiring some of the language.
...later | 21.00 | on board Moscow-bound train
I tell you, lap of luxury and all that! The train from Brest to Minsk was at best 2nd class, possibly 3rd. I didn't mind in the slightest, but to find myself placed in a 4-bunk cabin, complete with nicely laid out and clean bedding, personal lights and other fittings, was a surprise and I'm now not certain that I didn't buy a 1st class ticket by mistake. Perhaps it's just the glamour of Moscow-bound trains. I'm right next to the bar too, although I gave the rest of my Belarus money (30 pfenning) to a tramp, keeping one note of every denomination as a souvenir. I wonder if they will accept 'hard currency' – can't imagine they won't.
When I returned to collect my luggage I still had 3 hours before departure and as I didn't want to spend them at the station, I sat down outside the Institute building to read. There I met Ahmad Ishmail, arrived from Sudan just two days ago to study law for 3 years. I had my first Arabic conversation2 and we got on really well. He is 27, with two kids at home. He was very encouraging with my Arabic and I gradually lost my inhibitions. It was basic and full of errors but used practically for the first time and I was very pleased. Also met Mohammad, also from Sudan, who had been trying to get into Western Europe for a year. I suggested he marry a German and pay her a monthly amount – I had known an Indian in Munich who was doing that. We exchanged addresses and left in all goodwill and humour.
My cabinmate is a funny fellow. Mid 40s and a journalist. He claims to speak German, Spanish and English yet doesn't understand almost anything I say at length. I have no Roubles (Belarus or Russian) and we are in the middle of negotiating the exchange rate as he said he'd change some for me. The collector waived the 1500 surcharge that is required of passengers. How poor I must look with my shirt out and torn overcoat! The man seems a bit on the slow side and doesn't realise I'm indulging him by letting him get a good deal on 10 DM. Perhaps he thinks I haven't realised – who cares!
...later | 23.55 | on train near Belarus-Russian border
I became quite friendly with the man after that. We offered each other food – he took none of mine and offered me an egg (no) and a tomato (yes). He's asleep now and we have stopped somewhere. A guard just came in - “Control”. We are at or near the Russian border apparently (exciting stuff), a place called Orsha. The guard stuck his had in my rucksack and pulled it out immediately.
On the train I met a friendly Zambian called David. He's just finished his master's degree in Forestry in Minsk, and is flying to London on Monday, leaving his Belarussian wife behind. He bought me a couple of beers and I only had time to return one before the bar shut.
It's fun, noone else in the cabin (i.e. no 3rd or 4th person). Great feeling of independence, going where and when I want. Exchanged addresses with David and he promised to visit me in St. Andrews3. Wrote a long letter. It's great travelling alone.
I must say my journalist friend is nice enough. He has funny, jerky gestures when expressing his inability to express himself in English. He also furtively noted down my name and a few details of my Russian visa. This seemed innocent and, in his funny journalistic way, flattering to me.
We've been here for 20 minutes already. I'll go into the corridor for a cig and watch Russia come into being.
1. One Deutsch Mark (DM), currency of Germany until adoption of the Euro, consisting of of 100 pfenning.
2. I was studying Arabic at university and had just completed my first year. I had started learning it from scratch and this was the first time I had used it in a 'real' situation.
3. St. Andrews: the small seaside town in Scotland where I was studying modern languages.
