Welcome to Queensland!
So park your van in the garage in jump into the 4WD! That's the type of car you're going to need ‘up there’. Remote and difficult to access, the Cape York Peninsula. We’re talking about far north Queensland, the ‘real’ Australia how some Ozzy’s would call it. I traveled down under a lot, drove probably around 50.000 kilometres in a single year across the country, from place to place, mountains to beach and dessert to rainforest. After everything I’ve seen on my travels, Cape York is the only place which sticks to my mind and keeps pulling me back. I can’t forget the remoteness we went through, no reception and barely someone on the road. Then the weather, it was winter but hot, hot and humid. The landscapes are beautiful, where the blood - red sand touches the green plants, I've never seen something like that before. And last but not least, breathtaking beaches… full of saltwater crocodiles! Yeaah, that’s about describing the peninsula perfectly!
Plan your trip good
When I tell you that planning is important, then I’m not joking! Prepare yourself properly cause you don't want to get in some kind of trouble up there, not knowing when someone’s coming for help. Get your shopping done in Cairns, you'll need to buy groceries, refuel your car, buy a proper map and some kind of fishing, camping and recovery gear! Then the time of the year is very important. From May to the end of September you're able to make that trip, but during the other months it’s impossible due to floods which covered big parts of the land. That’s caused by the rain season and if you're going to the tip by the end of September or even in October then do your homework and make sure, you won’t get surprised by heavy rainfalls, so you will be able to come back! When everything gets flooded, theres no way entering the tip by car, you're either forced to fly or to go by boat!
Road trip without roads! (4WD only)
I hope you've worked on your off road driving skills, because you'll definitely need them. Laura is the last town you'll pass on asphalt. The other 800 Kilometres to the tip will lead you over dirt roads, gravel, sand and even a few creeks! There is some parts of the road made out off asphalt, but we’re talking about a very little percentage. If you're experienced driver I’d recommend to do the telegraph track, which will challenge you by everything you have learned so far! But then again, be prepared, have enough recovery gear to help yourself or even others. It might be better to drive in a convoy, it’s more fun anyway to go with friends and so you can help each other. But don't worry, if you're not a pro on dirt roads, you don't need to drive the telegraph track, there is another one going all the way up, called the Peninsula Development road. Stay focused all the time even if there is not much traffic, otherwise you'll roll your car faster than u think!
When you arrive in Laura it’s slowly time to deflate your tires. Deflating your tires gives you more control over your car. I usually release almost half of the air out of my tires, so from 38 psi to roughly 22 or 20. And the most important thing is to carry a spear tire with you. Don't even bother driving up there without that insurance. The chances are 50/50 to lose a tire!
That all sounds quite scary, doesn’t it? Well but you don't need to worry about anything if you do your homework and don't go on such a trip unprepaired.
The idea and our preparation
I didn't go at the times just by my self, Felix, a German bloke and backpacker joined me on that trip. We met in Coffs Harbour a few months back when I was driving up the east coast. It seemed like we were on the same wavelength so kept traveling together. How did the idea came up to drive to the tip of Cape York? We were staying in Cairns and did nothing but fishing for weeks. Well that’s nothing to complain about but after a while we got bored and asked ourselves what was there above Cairns? I haven't heard of any backpacker going further north than Cairns (or Port Douglas) so I became very curious! I looked it up on the internet and saw pictures of people standing beside a sign which says ‘you’re standing at the northernmost point of the Australian continent’. It seems to be a big thing so I was instantly interested of driving up there! If someone asks me what is my weakness, then that would be the answer to their question. If I really like something, I’d dive in for it straight away, not knowing if it’s a good idea!
So we had a new destination. Now all we had to do is our shopping for the road trip. Let’s start with the groceries, it is really important to not run out of water and food, we bought enough for more than two weeks and most of it was canned. We tried to avoid that our food spoils. Then a proper map is a must have. ‘Hema’ maps are very good cause they're renewing them regularly and everything displayed was double-checked by them. Refill your car and if possible take as much spear fuel with you as you can. The prices up there double at least!
And that was about it, we prepared everything we needed in one day and were ready to leave Cairns by the sunrise.
our 'map'
Coen and Loyalty Beach
Felix and me were finally on the road again, exited and not knowing what was waiting for us. It was a very hot and sunny day, perfect conditions to start an adventure. Before we left Cairns we didn't look up whereabouts we would spend the first night. It’s only 1000 kilometres from Cairns to the tip, but simply impossible to drive it all in one day. On a normal highway 1000 kilometres are easily to make within 10 hours. But up there the rules are quite different. We just kept driving until the sunset and then we started to look for a camping spot. That was definitely a mistake, cause by the time we arrived in Coen and found a place to stay it was pitch dark and just a pain in the ass to put up the tents. Coen is located around 550 kilometres from Cairns and it’s actually a pretty good place to make a stopover. I was exhausted from the 10 hour drive and couldn't wait to get some sleep. The next morning we saw how that place around us looked like. It was beautiful and for free! Not many campsites in Australia charge you nothing. We slept beside a shallow billabong, directly at the road. Great location and perfect place for a swim in the morning! It was already time to leave, the breakfast and coffee were done quickly and we were on the road again.
What is it about a road trip that makes me happy? I guess everything! Have you heard about the saying ‘the way is the destination’? I think it’s true, to be stuck in the car on the road, with a good friend, listening to good music, telling jokes, good vibes, eating bad canned food, having stupid ideas and so on … what’s better than that? I cant imagine anything! And in the end of the road there’s the destination waiting for you, which makes it even perfect! The time flew by like nothing and we arrived at the Jardine River, it’s very shallow and narrow but too difficult for me to cross by car. I was forced to buy a ticked for the ferry, unfortunately cause it’s a pure rip off! They charge you depending on what type of vehicle you're driving. 100AUD for me and my Toyota Prado. Quite expensive for that joke of a river. With 100 bucks less in my pocket and 30 seconds later we were at the other side, closer to the tip than ever before. First we drove to Bamaga, then to Seisia and afterwards to the Loyalty Beach where we put up our camp for the next four days. The first night was great, except for the fact that we got eaten alive by mosquitos and sandflies! In the morning we had a visitor, a wild horse came very close to our camp. I was exited and wanted to pet it and indeed the horse came closer and closer till I was able to touch it. It wasn't afraid at all and seemed to be my new friend, but then it grabbed my toast, the whole package and run away! I was speechless, I mean how the he*l am I going to explain someone that I got ripped off by a horse? Note to myself: Never trust wild Horses, they don't want you as a friend, they only use you for your bred!
Fishing from Seisia's jetty
If you're into fishing or hunting then you're going to love Cape York! Every angler knows the struggle of overfished and packed fishing spots but that’s not the case yet at the Cape. You have the possibilities to get a fishing charter all around the peninsula, Weipa for example is a well known place but on a low budget I’d simply recommend to stay in Seisia and fish from the jetty. It’s the best fishing spot I’ve ever discovered in my life. GT’s, Spanish Mackerels, Queenfish, Snapper, Sharks… You have the chance to catch almost everything there, I just caught a little School Mackerel but was very happy! The current pushes a lot of little herrings underneath the jetty so predators get very attracted and always stay around. Just catch a few herrings and put them in a bucket, then you can use them as live baits. The chances of catching a decent fish aren't low!
a picture from Weipa
Birdwatching tower and the Tip
At the camping spot I had a nice chat to a few guys next to us. They are mechanics from Townsville and came to Cape York to enjoy a few weeks off work. We drunk a few beer together and heard something in the water, I took my torch and saw that massive saltwater crocodile, less than 20 metres away from our tents. It was around 4 - 4,5 metre long! After the excitement was over the boys started talking about a treehouse. What could be so special about a treehouse? They went there that day and said it is a ‘must do’. I asked for a description how to find it and it was on the way to the tip, passed the croc tent. That’s all I remembered the next morning on our way to the Tip. I stopped at the croc tent and asked the people there if they knew where the treehouse was. They told me whereabouts the birdwatching tower was but it is a difficult one to find it. No signs and nothing pointing you in the right direction. If you feel like you're not driving the right way or think that can’t be it, then you're on the right way. The treehouse is pretty hidden but worth to look for it. It’s 23 metre high and dangerous to climb it up due to the rotten wood. Watch your steps up there!
We followed the Bamaga to Cape York Tip Track all the way to the end and parked the Car there. Only a short hike was separating me from the northernmost point of the Australian continent. Nothing could have stopped me that moment! Alright the rotten treehouse was cool to see but now it was time get what i came for… My picture at the sing! The landscape there is breathtaking, endless beaches and turquoise water made everything look perfect. Felix and I arrived the sign and just enjoyed the moment. It was an awesome road trip and so different to the other ones I made in Australia. Much fewer tourists and pure nature left a mark in my soul…
