A bumpy six-hour bus ride north from Vang Vieng, you’ll find the UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang. For those who found the party scene back in Vang Vieng to be their earthly version of Hell, Luang Prabang will probably feel like Heaven. But of course, for those who’d reveled in Vang Vieng’s hedonism, socially speaking, Luang Prabang could well feel like Hell.
Personally speaking, and for very different reasons, I enjoy both of these towns equally. But, if Vang Vieng was the wild and wonderful Mistress, then Luang Prabang could well be described as the calm and faithful Wife.
Nestled at the confluence of the Kahn and Mekong Rivers, although Luang Prabang lacks much of Vang Vieng’s geographical beauty, it’s a long way from being its ugly sister. And what Luang Prabang lacks in surrounding mountains, it certainly makes up for in structural and spiritual beauty.
Where Vang Vieng feels unfinished, unkempt and unruly, by comparison, Luang Prabang feels positively well-groomed and manicured. As a town, Luang Prabang’s visual pleasantry clearly owes much to its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but beyond the gently preserved old colonial buildings that have all but vanished in other parts of Lao PDR, Luang Prabang has a spiritual heart that few places in Asia could ever hope to equal.
When you think of Luang Prabang, you probably picture lines of saffron robed monks walking through the dawn streets accepting offerings of food and gifts from the community. In Lao PDR, this daily ritual is called Tak Bat (Sai Bat in Thai) and is probably one of the most photographed Buddhist rituals in the world.
Just before dawn, the monks will gather in their temple before walking in single file and silence through the streets of Luang Prabang. With their alms bowls held by slings across their shoulder, eldest at the front and youngest to the rear, the monks from each temple will walk their designated route.
As the monks arrive, the almsgivers - keeping their heads lower than those on the monks by kneeling or sitting on small stools - will spoon sticky rice into the bowl of each monk.
Along with the sticky rice, fresh fruit, boxed milk and juices, incense sticks, and candles will also be given as alms.
The ritual ceremony of Tak Bat is as old as the temples of Luang Prabang, and although its precise history appears uncertain, it is clearly a sign of the bond and respect between the temples and their surrounding communities.
By performing Tak Bat the almsgivers are making merit, receiving spiritual redemption in return for their offerings, and the food and gifts they give help to sustain the monks and the community within their temple.
Tak Bat is always performed in silence. The monks walk in deep meditation and the almsgivers being respectful, avoid any forms of disturbance and distraction.
With more than eighty temples in Luang Prabang, Tak Bat is performed each morning in every part of the city. However, perhaps the best place to observe is in the area from Sakkaline and Sisavangnong Roads and the side roads running back down towards the Mekong River. You can find this area easily on maps, but if in doubt, just move towards the sound of clicking cameras.
An ever increasing number of tourists come to Luang Prabang in order to observe Tak Bat, but it’s important that people are respectful of the solemnity of the ritual. Observers should dress appropriately, as if visiting a temple, and remain silent and respectful to both monks and almsgivers alike.
I’d encourage everybody to observe and give alms atTak Bat, but to remember that this is not a tourist attraction, but a ceremony that’s become attractive to tourists.
I’ll post more on Luang Prabang later, but I felt that Tak Bat would deserve its own blog post, so thanks for reading along.
Also, I’d like to apologize for the quality of photographs in this post. But, well, it’s a long story that involves the SD Card from my DSLR, the Delete key on my laptop and the delicious taste of chilled Beer Lao.
Riding and smiling as always …... Geoff