Many moons ago, I knew nothing about cycling. For that matter even now I just about balance my bike and life! This story is about how I got into serious cycling after giving it up in my school days.
Previous Episode Recap:
On a desolate stretch of road, four big, mean looking viscous mountain dogs appeared from behind the rocks. There wasn't a human or vehicle in sight. It was going to be another episode of Man vs Wild. The dogs snarling and growling circled me, as I stood behind my bike, quaking in my boots.
Day 6
Pooh is very close to the India-China border and as such has a strong military presence. Though as a civilian, you only ever get to see the tip of the military iceberg. My exit through the town of Pooh was through a military camp. The men in uniform were lined up in the grounds for their morning drill, and when they saw me riding past on my humble pedal powered machine, they stopped and in unison gave me a loud cheer.
It was embarrassing to be cheered on for doing something as insignificant as holidaying on a bike, when these guys were facing the harshest elements of nature all year round. But it did pump me up with adrenaline for the remainder of the day.
In this day of Information Technology, being up to date with the world is normal. Not for me! I had a map of the place which was 10 years old. My map told me that I would be climbing till a place called Ka and after that it would level out. I had just two litres of water at my disposal as I set about climbing the Ka Zigs as they are known. A bunch of hairpin bends which take you straight up the mountain.
And this wasn't hills, this was pure rugged windswept mountains. A cold desert. Looking up or down the mountain would send a chill down my spine. Logic said concentrate on the road and 'feel' safe. But the beauty of the mountains is mesmerising and it is difficult to take one's eyes off it.
I climbed all the way to Ka, where I stopped and scratched my head in confusion. My map said go straight along the river, the road said continue climbing! I was already low on water and climbing some more didn't look appealing. Especially if it was the wrong road!
And so I waited... ...for an hour!
Finally, a jeep drove past dropping off a passenger at the intersection. The road going straight was the old route, which had been washed away in the landslides. His village was on that road. A two hour walk from the intersection! But for me, it was the climb.
In that hour of waiting I had gulped down some more water. With just half a litre in hand, I climbed. It hurt, my legs, heart, lungs all wanted to burst out of my body. The village of Nako wasn't willing to turn up. Soon I was dehydrated under the harsh mountain sun. The last two kilometres up the mountain took me one full hour.
At Nako the first thing I saw was a small eating joint. I parked my bike and lay down in the shade. After a long snooze I mustered up the energy to sit at the table and gobble some grub.
The owner of the eatery pointed me out to a small affordable lodge and told me that another cyclists was staying there. Yay, there was someone else as stupid as me!
I met the other Indian cyclist, we got talking and exploring the beautiful rustic mountain village of Nako. It's been many years since that day, and even today we are the best of friends. A chance meeting on a bike which eventually led to the biggest adventure of my life (so far!)
The mountain overlooking the bridge at Khab
The windswept mountains
6 km of climbing to Ka
If you look right down the ravine near the river, you can see the road from which I climbed to the point of the photograph
The Ka Zigs End. The end of the climb. Ha! In my dreams, the road continued climbing till eternity
At an altitude of 3624 metres and climbing!
The Nako lake which I had heard about and was rather disappointed that it was nothing more than a little pond!
Day 7
The next day I rode with my new found cycling buddy. The both of us were solo travellers, and it was rather amusing for the both of us to be riding together. Everytime I would go ahead and out of sight, he would think that I had fallen off a cliff and I would think that he had fallen off the cliff. We spent as much time worrying as cycling!
Along the way whenever we bumped into the locals, they would offer us apples to eat, the local produce. After munching on a couple of apples, I asked one person where did they store the fruit, since Apple season was still a month away. They told me that the apples we were eating was a year old and had been kept in a normal room. It is so cold there, that nothing spoils!
On a downhill stretch of road I tried to race a car filled with tourists. The car would overtake me on the straight bits, and in the corners I would sweep past. The game of cat and mouse continued till realisation struck that I was risking life and limb on an ego battle!
Among all this beauty there was one thing getting to me. The vegetarian food! An army marches on their stomach and a cyclist pedals on it! Food is integral to keep moving. Having similar vegetarian food of rice, beans and lentil was taking a toll. More mental than physical!
In Tabo we got accommodation in a Buddhist monastery, which was pretty cool. Even though we didn't participate in any of the prayers, rituals etc., the place had a sense of calm and serenity enveloping it. Something that can only be experienced, not captured in words and pictures.
The Tibetan Buddhist culture was alive and present in every inanimate rock. It makes a believer of anyone who isn't willing!
Sun kissed mountain peaks
Livestock in the village of Nako
Terraced farming in Nako. 100% subsistence agriculture
A weather room, for lack of a better word! When the weather turns, a place to take shelter
A small water crossing called Malling Nallah. At times it can swell up where even trucks are unable to pass. As is visible in the background, the fuel tanker is parked on the side, while the driver goes to inspect the level of water.
When you actually look down on the mountains without flying in an aeroplane!
Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags fill you with hope even when you have a mountain staring at you!
The road on which I raced the car and risked my neck
Every little village has a 'welcome' gate decorated with religious motifs
My friend playing catch up. It was a game of the hare and the tortoise. Needless to say he won! Oh, and spot the cyclist!
Just 3 more kilometres to home, peace and serenity...for a night!
The village of Tabo from the opposite mountain. Where this picture was clicked from, there are caves in which the monks use to meditate.
The mountain which protects the village of Tabo from the elements. The reason which allows Tabo to be habitable and have some amount of vegetation
If you like Bike Travel tales:
Cycling in the mighty Himalayas
Cycling in the mighty Himalayas Part II
Cycling in the mighty Himalayas Part III
You can read my previous travel tales from Goa below:
You can read my experience of bicycle racing below:
Road race in Delhi: The ATH KMP 100