It is 7pm of a short January day and the sun have just set in the Negev desert of Israel. I am trembling in the sharp wind that have broken my tent the very first night of my stay. Hidden under a cliff I am trying to stay as dry as possible, knowing already that it is going to freeze later at night. Wrapped in my sleeping bag I am thankful for coming in the coldest period of the year, though, because the temperature will rise rapidly around tomorrows noon. For a short period, I will be struggling through the desert flooded by sweat, almost blind with my face wrapped in a scarf – and a week later I will leave sun-burned anyway. (Don’t be like me! Bring your cream!)
I can still see thousands of shades of orange and crimson sands of the bottom of the Makhtesh crater well over a hundred meters below me – a picturesque view that kept amazing me for the last five hours of hiking along the crater to the west from the town of Mitzpe Ramon. Tomorrow is Saturday, Shabbat and I can turn to the North, cross a military zone with restricted access that opens for the day off – and in the evening, I hope to reach one of the Bedouin settlements along the 40 road from Beer-Sheva to Eilat.
The Western Trip: Are you blue-eyed or outstandingly beautiful? Beware
Unable to light my stove due to the wind, I finish my second day on bread and cheese. I cannot force myself to get a proper sip of freezing water and I am thanking God for having some wine to help the bread through my dry throat. I am not eating much, though, and finally I find myself in the darkness sipping wine and meditating about the mysterious entity that brought me to the desert: The Evil Eye.
“The Evil Eye can bring a man to his grave and a camel to a cooking pot,” Bedouin saying explains. Unlike in our Western understanding where people are considered to suffer due to disturbed levels of neurotransmitters, among the traditional Bedouins a sufferer may rather be affected by the Evil Eye. Children and blue-eyed and outstandingly beautiful people are especially vulnerable to it, professor Aref Abu-Rabia, anthropologist and Bedouin himself says:
“The evil eye is commonly associated with envy, and transmitted by a look, touch or verbal expression of envy, or by excessive praise without a blessing. Certain individuals with the evil eye are thought to cause harm habitually, even deliberately; others may do it accidentally and unconsciously. It is generally considered to cause sickness, loss of vitality and even death in the object of envy.”
The people of the desert are facing multiple perils. The nights are cold, days hot and resources sparse. While droughts and lack of water means certain death, too much of the same comes with similar result: the highest risk of camping in a desert is even nowadays – surprisingly – drowning. The colourful landscape is made of stones and hard sand that does not absorb water. As a result, even mild rain miles from your location may cause severe flooding – and if you happened to camp hidden from the wind in one of the ubiquitous canyons made by rare, yet strong streams, it may surprise you in sleep. (Think of that when screening for your sleeping spot!)
“Belief in the evil eye is an important part of Bedouin folk culture from the cradle to the grave. It serves as a crucial mechanism to explain social problems, envy, bad luck and misfortune in the uncertain conditions of the desert environment,” Abu-Rabia continues. “The evil eye in Bedouin folk belief is tied to the fear of envy and jealousy in the eye of the beholder.”
No matter how many struggles the Evil Eye may cause, in terms of contemporary Western psychology, it serves well to its believers. It is always easier to live in a predictable environment. Knowing that you get what you deserve – due to your kindness or envy – makes the harsh conditions more bearable. And of course, protects the community against envy.
The concept of evil eye is not limited to the Arab population: it has its place in Judaism as well. And maybe it pertains among the sources of the outstanding hospitality of local people, no matter who they are.
If you pass ruins of an ancient reservoir in the middle of the desert and turn right along the road 171, after several hours you may reach a beautiful oasis. The owner, survivor of a severe disease herself, is providing shelter to people seeking inner peace in the desert. And her oasis is full of it!
Once you finish your tea, you can head East and reach the town of Mitzpe Ramon in few hours.
Budget option: walking to the desert right from the airport
Mitzpe Ramon, a provincial town of some 5000 inhabitants is named after the crater opening right below the last houses, has all facilities you might need. And it may easily be the first and only town you visit. If you are on budget, fly to the Ovda airport, former army aerodrome in the middle of Southern Negev: currently you can get there with Wizzair or Rayanair from plenty of European cities for few tens of Euros. The best feature of this airport is that you can walk into the desert right from the arrivals hall.
In a couple of minutes, you reach the road connecting Eilat, Beer-Sheva – and Mitzpe Ramon. If you don’t mind bringing some food and don’t forget to provide yourself with water after landing, you can simply turn right and enjoy hiking along the road as much as you wish (and as long as you mind the military zones around and don’t go too far from the road).
Once you have enjoyed the landscape, you simply hitchhike up to Mitzpe. Hitchhiking is popular in Israel, should be easy – and for free. At the entrance to the city, on the highest cliff, you will find a visitor’s center on your left hand (currently open even on Saturdays) and get a map and a handful of advices. Don’t forget to ask for updates regarding flooding and military areas which are all around (mostly, but not always, marked by signs: if you spot an old, corroded block of concrete saying “Danger”, simply walk away, the signs are valid, no matter how old and forgotten they look; scroll to the last paragraphs to see what happens when you enter the zone).
Mitzpe is a great basement for about a week. Did you spend a couple of days hiking the Western part of the Crater? Eat your shaorma, visit the Northern district of a former factory converted into a “Creative Center”, get yourself a coffee, check galleries, enjoy a concert, get proper sleep in one of the creative hostels (with a great atmosphere and prices starting on 20 E per bunk bed). Having some spare time, walk to the East, cross the main road and get lost in the desert sculpture park.
Being on low budget, you should avoid a Caucasian restaurant in the Creative District: a simple meal eaten on a plastic chair would cost over 20 E. On the other hand, if you can spare some cash, run there immediately: a full plate of beef flooded by oil and slushed by a cold pint is exactly what you need after the days spent in desert. It costs only a bit more than a cheap hostel – and isn’t it more enjoyable to stay outside over night with a full stomach than spasm with collywobbles on a bunkbed?
“According to the Bedouin people, both health and illness are in the hands of Allah through natural and supernatural powers created by Him. These powers are the wellsprings of healing. Most illnesses are considered to be a direct punishment for our sins by Allah, who acts through the mediation of human beings, and therefore He cures the sick through traditional healers, doctors or other medical and paramedical professions. There are certain things that enhance health, including the maintenance of basic rules of hygiene, religious practices and respecting norms of behaviour. These concepts are expressed, for example, in abstaining from eating carrion, spoiled food and contaminated water, and avoiding places where there is danger of disease, particularly contagious diseases,” Abu-Rabia wrote.
The traditional beliefs were a useful tool dealing with perils of the desert environment. However, facing the risks of today´s world, they are lacking their powers. “Bedouins know that their ancestors were growing everything in bio quality. However, they are not getting behind this point, not thinking that they could try to do the same. They are buying the cheapest, processed food,” says Joshua Smidt, an anthropologist who moved to Mitzpe fifteen years ago to study the Bedouins – and their shopping behaviour.
The Northern Trip: Meeting the lonely wolf
Did you expect the desert to be deserted? It is not! I have seen countless ibexes and even a hyena and a desert fox for a moment during my trip to the West. Then I hitchhiked for about 30 mins to the North to reach the ruins of the ancient town of Avdat. After the sunset, I crossed the main road to leave the national park (No sleeping in national parks in Israel. Not even one-night stands!) and struggled through stone fields towards some hills that could protect me from the wind.
The moon was full and wolfs howling all around. Finding a flat, wind-protected spot high enough not to be flooded I curled up in my sleeping bag. And then it came: first some rustle, then a shadow in the moonlight. Once it was just few yards apart, I lit my torch, anticipating seeing a baby ibex as per the size I guessed in the dark – but it was a wolf what turned around and hurried back until it stopped for me to see a pair of green eyes reflecting the light of torch for a moment. Then it disappeared never to come back again.
The ruins of Avdat are connected to the Ein Avdat Park, amazing lake and waterfalls hidden in a canyon deep under the thirsty desert, by a beautiful walk of about three hours – however, the footpath crossing the Ein Avdat canyon is one way only, accessible only from the other side. Thus: don’t be like me, start in the morning in the Ben Gurion Midreshet (see the memorial of the first Israeli prime minister), take a hike to the canyon, cross it and climb up on its Southern side – and only then continue to the ancient village. You arrive there in the evening anyway and the chances are it will be closed. You may cross the road then and making sure you left the national park you can pitch your tent awaiting your wolf to appear.
Listening to the sounds of desert, you can continue with the records of Abu-Rabia in the moonlight:
“The Bedouin are aware of people in their tribes whom they suspect can cast the evil eye or be ‘aradh. They know that if they are unkind to any of them, the ‘aradh will bring havoc on the community and cause great confusion and disorder. So, instead of treating them meanly, the community embraces those who are known to be ‘aradh, and welcomes them to public gatherings, so that everyone can appease them and prevent them from doing any harm.”
Psychologically speaking, great attitude! Multiple studies are showing (check the Americanization of Mental Illness for popular overview) our Western beliefs are pragmatically not the best ones. In some other cultures, mentally ill people heal better. The appeasing attitude of Bedouins is likely to be on of the reasons: instead of causing even more uncertainties, stress and suffer by ostracizing those who are already uncertain, stressed and suffering due to a mental issue, they accept them – making it easier for them to live and to heal.
The Eastern Trip: the best of Negev
The most demanding hike takes you to the Eastern part of the crater. Especially ascending to Mt Ardon from the Southern part is steep and could be a bit tricky with a heavy backpack: it is better to enjoy this part during your second or other day, once you have less water.
Sitting on top of Mt Ardon, observing whole deserts two or three hundred meters below you feel like in heaven. Once finished, you descend to a deserted camping place: simple stone blocks protecting the area from wind and a toilet. Trembling in two sweatshirts you are thanking God for the low temperatures. First, they make it unlikely for a scorpion or a viper to emerge. Second, with 6 litters of water, which may be just enough for two days and a fragment of the third, my backpack weights well over 20 kilos – and I would not be able to carry full 15 litters of water necessary for 3 days in the warmer months.
Ready to come along? Say goodbye to Mitzpe and head Southeast. You can either climb down to the crater and walk along a marked path (almost whole crater is one big national park: walking allowed on signed trails only and sleeping in camps), or hitchhike 20 mins to the Sillsul hill junction to save half a day. Depending on your schedule you may either go around the Eastern half of the crater (4-5 days, ending up in Mitzpe), cross the desert hills to the road 90 (2-3 days) or choosing some track to bring you back to Mitzpe / the road 40 (1-3 days).
In all cases, the Beerot camping site is a great basement: you can refill your water here and drink a coffee. However, it is not without dangers: if you stay for a prolonged period, watch what is above your stuff. The desert birds love the roofs made of palm trees as much as you do – dropping right onto your drying sleeping bag.
Returning to the airport:...and then the soldiers came
Curious what happens when entering the forbidden military zones? Just follow, we are getting there!
No matter where you finished your last trip around the crater, you can either take one of the few buses, or hitchhike and walk the rest. My plane was departing late in the evening – and to be sure not to be in hurry, I reserved almost whole day to get there. After a random walk in desert in the morning, I hitchhiked to the beautiful kibbutz of Neot Samadar.
Peaceful place with olive orchards and beautiful views with lake and palm trees. And a cosy café with flowering garden at the road junction where you feel like you could rest for eternity. Both seem to be a miracle.
“All thanks to the G_d,” an older man says joining my table at a café. “There was nothing but desert here for thousands of years. No matter who dominated the country, whether it was the Greeks, Romans, Arabs or Britons, no civilisation managed to help it – until the last 70 years. Now it is blessed, and it blossoms because,” he stopped for a soft smile, “because where a Jew pees in a desert, an orange tree will grow! That´s what we believe here.”
Finally, six hours prior to my departure, I left for South-East on a trail marked for bicycles. It takes an hour through a beautiful hilly desert to the first crossroad where I had to turn right, returning to the road 12 that I would follow for 2 additional hours to the airport.
I found the road, rested for a moment fascinated by the sun setting right in front of me and turned towards the South. Cutting long open curve of the road through the desert, I could see a plane landing nearby. Then I had stepped on something, heard a soft click of a wire being cut. Maybe it was related to what happened next, maybe it was not. In any case, I did not pay any attention to it and kept walking. Noticing a fence contrasting the darkening desert on my right hand, I turned slightly left to make sure I do not come too close in case it is an army base not included in my map.
Then I saw a car riding through the desert that stopped nearby, I heard people shouting – and giving notice of my presence by switching my torch on, I was requested to come closer to the fence, stop, point the torch light against my face and wait. And I waited, waited under surveillance of automatic guns and reflectors, answering the same questions again and again. To be happily released in the end – being told that I am on a wrong road that is only crossing around the airport, a military road with restricted access. With my flight departing in three hours, I was sent back North for ten kilometers to some junction – to follow the other road for two more hours back to the airport.
Luckily, the desert never sleeps and the Israeli hospitality has no limits: after an hour of walking in exhausting pace, an old Bedouin stopped his van in the opposite direction and gave me lift. “The soldiers did not take you there? I would expect more from our army,” he complained, leaving me in the dark desert, ten minutes from the lights of runway.
Instead of a concluding remark, let me just point out that you travel to a country under surveillance of three major gods of the humankind and one of the strongest armies. The desert is beautiful and, when you are aware of the military and flooding zones, safe. Don’t forget to be kind and humble, though: the evil eye is watching you.
