1st picture is a Correctly "spiked and glued" oil return drain for an aftermarket turbo. This is a method we and the turbo kit industry have used successfully for decades The sump is spiked. A tapered brass barb fitting is glued and screwed in. The glue of course sets and can easily be cracked and undone just in case it ever needed removing.
IN Contrast... The Old Way....
2nd picture is a typical welded pipe job. It's one of the many failed and leaking we see. To install a welded fitting the engine sump needs to be removed. These sumps are gasket free and siliconed onto the engine block. To remove the sump it's a job and a half which in the end usually leaves a bent sump. A "butt flat" welded pipe is used and, from what we have witnessed over the years, 9 out of 10 crack and leak. Someone of course has tried to stop the leak by fingering silicon all over the fitting. A few colors of silicon are visible so the leak has tried to be stopped a few times. Guess what? The only real fix will be to pull the sump off and weld again.
Spike and Glue.
Well... For our money we will stick to Spike and Glue for another 30 years as we know it works....
And we know sump removal, drill, weld and hope..... is just plain out of date.
Silicon and Glues hold half of our cars together nowadays. I was at a workshop the other day and the warehouse walls that were 5 meters high made of concrete were ALL stuck together with silicons... Amazing.
Get the job done right the first time.
