Welcome to Wines of the World a Series #4… If you missed the last review click here.
“I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food.” -- W.C. Fields
This issue we will go to a region of the world that is responsible some some of the best grapes on the planet… In the Bordeaux region, with all it's sub-regions -- Margaux, St Julien, Pauilliac. The region of Haut-Medoc has been producing these gifts from god, since the 17th century and by the 19th century was one of the most profitable in France.
This is what they do in Bordeaux -- they make amazing wine. And they do it better than anybody. Look, my goal here, is to be straight with you, concerning anything wine. Being around the business for so many years has given me the opportunity to be exposed to some very, very good wines, to say the least -- never mind all the good people, that come along with such an exquisite product.
And, in my humble opinion… After all the wine I have polished off throughout the years -- from all over the globe… The two people that do it better than anyone else -- Wait for it --- the French and The Italian, period.
I have had beautiful, life-changing wines from Spain, Napa, Chili… And still, nobody does it better than the French and the Italians.
Im not here to lie to you.., sell you wine. Truth is, I probably get more out of writing these reviews, than you get out of reading them… The memories of old friends I haven't thought of in years, times spent on the side of a highway, in the middle of winter in Upstate NY -- car broken down. But all was fine because we had a trunk full of wine.
It's easy to tie special moments in your life to such delicate, meticulously made elixir. They just go together… From fun times with friends, to celebrations with family and special times with a lover, or all alone just to keep you company. It's a drink for the civilized -- the better side of us all.
So thanks for the memories…
And now lets get on to the.., very pleasant task at hand. The Haut-Medoc region is known for the -- "famous four" Margaux, Saint-Estephe, Saint Julien and Paulliac. The rest of the, or the remainder is used to produce, Haut-Medoc. And let me tell you something -- if you are going to have the "remainder" of anything wine related, you want it from here!
The conditions for growing the ever late ripening cabernet sauvignon are better than ideal. And considering, cab is the main grape in Haut-Medoc -- it's off to the races. The next predominate grape is Merlot, further inland off the Gironde river, the soil turns into a clay -- that Merlot just loves… Add a little Petite Verdot and a tiny bit of Cabernet Franc.
Like I said… The region is insane! The specific conditions, for the specific grapes… It just all works so well, with all the knowledge, history and tradition that goes along with such an honorable endeavor, as wine-making.
“One should always be drunk. That's all that matters...But with what? With wine, with poetry, or with virtue, as you chose. But get drunk.” -- Charles Baudelaire
Chateau Cantemerle Haut-Medoc 2009
Grapes: Bordeaux blend: 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc
Medium to Full Body (I say Full)
Tasting Notes:
Just like it's vineyard.., this wine is elegant. With it's floral / fruit nose and dark fruit palate, a lesser wine could taste too jammy or clumsy… Not the case with this 2009 Haut-Medoc from Chateau Cantemerle -- like I said, elegant.
Deep ruby, almost purple and violet. A true champion of it's terroir (the area, atmosphere and surroundings it grown in) it highlights the very best of the region. Bottled in 2009, this wine is ready to be popped. Big, but not massive (it's too elegant to be massive), this wine is seamless in it's precision. The depth of flavor is filled with wisdom from it's land.
The nose (aromas): Floral. It's like a bouquet of flowers, but soft and gentle. The fruit is dark, from black cherries, some raspberry, definitely currants and a little spicy cinnamon. It smells pretty!
The texture (palate): the darkness of this wine shines through on the palate… The black currants, black cherry --underlying tobacco and minerals (from the clay) are present, as is some smoky oak. It's fresh and vital but still velvety and classic in style.
The finish: Is long but light and rich. Balanced out by the perfect sweet tannins that are exuberant on the tongue. The acidity seems to be there to for a definite reason, as it puts a nice touch on the sweetness that comes from the south in Medoc. It screams (but softly) please drink more.
I had the opportunity to drink this wine, with actual wine producers and makers from the region of bordeaux, at a tasting I was invited to, out of the blue. I was going to blow it off, when my phone rang and a very lovely voice asked me if she would be seeing there… It was one of the coolest women I have ever shared a bottle with… She owned a small wine shop in the city and was well aware of my love of this particular region.
Side Note: This wine deserves a little time to breathe… If you can decant and let it breathe for a good 2-3 hours. The subtleties that are inspired by it's land and the structure that was meant start to fall into place. Or, just pop it and drink it.
Food Pairing: great with some grilled lamb chops or braised shank. A nice cut of meat goes amazingly well with this wine -- anything beef, pork, lamb. Something gamey. maybe… Goat cheese and gouda were two cheeses I can remember going quite well, also.
Cost: $55 (I've seen it as low as $40)
Wines from this region can be pricey… When you start to get into the "famous four" that make up the area, it's easy to see the history and love of wine that elevates Bordeaux to a whole different level. And Haut-Medoc can be the best steal around… The prices are approachable and the wine a delight.
Bonus Wine:
Im going to throw in this next wine, even though it is very, very expensive… But I was very fortunate to be asked to a dinner party by the hosts of the tasting, later that week. It was a small gathering at there loft downtown, where they invited a chef in to cook for us and were ready to pop the pricey stuff.
Chateau Margaux 2009
From the moment this wine is opened.., you are well aware, you are about to have something special -- very special. It's dense and light at the same time, if that makes any sense. The nose of lilacs and blackberries invade your senses ever so gently.
The finesse this wine offers comes together on the palette and finish like nothing you have ever tasted… Spicy currants, sweet tobacco and even some fine leather. Sandalwood and cedar. The finish is creamy, soft and gentle with a delicate acidity that balances the whole damn thing!
This is just a brief review of a wine that deserves to have pages written about it… If anyone has any specific questions please feel free to ask -- after all, it is quite the investment.
Cost: $975
You can't buy happiness but you can buy wine…, that's kinda the same thing. Cheers!
If you have any questions or recommendations for a wine you would like reviewed, please comment below.., and follow
