It was a November day, nature was angry. But beside him, and despite his screams, I felt good.
The wind has been blowing hard these last few days on the Atlantic coast. The ocean was agitated, the sand swirled in the air and poked my face as I struggled to move forward on the way across the dune.
That morning, I sat on the bench overlooking the beach and watched for a long time the storm around me. It was incredible, even grandiose. I felt so small in the midst of this chaos, so vulnerable.
A little later in the day, I took my car and drove a few kilometres towards the forest. When I arrived in the middle of the pines, I turned off the engine, loosened my seat belt and tilted my seat slightly backwards.
Taking advantage of the silence in the cockpit to try to find some peace and comfort, I closed my eyes for a long time before resuming my reading of William Finnegan's barbaric days.
You must have heard of this book, which seems to have already changed the lives of many people around the world. I can't say the same for the moment because I'm only at the beginning of the story, but I'm sure I'm not disappointed with the trip. And then it's surfing, anyway...
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
Kelly Slater - Kelly Slater
Maybe one day I too will travel around the world in search of the slightest wave to jump on. We do not know what the future holds for us, and it may be better that way. The unknown also keeps the dream alive, doesn't he?
Even though it took me a little more concentration than usual, this short break in the heart of nature made me feel good.
Right now I'm especially interested in writing. So when I start reading, I think about what I could write, about that story that I could tell too. I sometimes lose the thread of history and find myself in the middle of my own words, those who only want to come to life under my fingers.
I was reading this Jason Stirman story recently. Jason explains how he reorganized the iPhone screen so that it would attract less attention and allow him to find a little more free time. I followed his advice.
Free time. An increasingly scarce commodity. Precious too. It is no coincidence that today some tech companies are looking for ways to take our free time. Our time is worth gold, and they have understood that.
This November day, I chose to take the time. I preferred to slow down a little to realize that life can be different from the one we are being forced to swallow. It can be more appealing too, it's just sometimes enough to have a little bit of hindsight on things.
In the afternoon, I went home and made myself a citrus tea. Accompanied by the smell of fruit rising from my hot cup, I started writing again.
Just because I had to, and also because writing has become one of my new addictions. An addiction that does good, an addiction that gives incredible energy, but above all an addiction that is terribly beneficial for your health.
I am writing a short story about the benefits of writing and what it has been doing for some time. Because I am convinced that we should all write, for our common good. Because writing can change life, too...
It was a November day, nature was angry. But beside him, and despite his screams, I felt good.