My dear reader, I am attracted to outlandish places.

"Eum ... why?"

It amuses me to mention to Russian acquaintances that I visited Murmansk, which lies to the north of the Arctic Circle. Their response has invariably been one of consternation - a raised eyebrow, and a variation of the question "why would you want to go there?". From its weather to its people, it was one of the most hostile places that I've been to - and I loved it.

Spot the foreigner

Many are turned off by the harshness of the country, the antagonistic nature of its people, and the unsettling feeling of being surveilled. They aren't wrong. But the rough nature can be astonishingly beautiful, the guarded Russians surprisingly delightful, and an immersion in the culture incredibly gratifying.

This was my second trip to Russia. Having previously spent time in Moscow and St Petersburg (each special in its own way), I wanted to see the wilder side of the country. Although everything about the Murmansk airport screams "go back to where you came from" (including the customs officer), we grabbed some snacks of questionable origins (from the cafe in the picture below) and made our way to the city.

Travelers' Choice Awards

A surprisingly large city, boasting a port, a naval base, and railroads, laid ahead. Murmansk played an important role in the military history of 19th century Russia. Today, it plays an important role in reminding us of the value of the little things in life, like the ability to smile.

Murmansk is home to the world's first nuclear-powered surface vessel. The Lenin icebreaker-turned-museum provides for an interesting tour of nuclear reactors, and for much needed warmth.

A couple of frostbites later ...

The attractive side of Murmansk lays outside the center. We were told the Kola peninsula suffered major ecological damage from mining and nuclear waste. But covered in snow, it is an eerily beautiful haven of peace.

"If you real man, you put face in snow", said Sasha, our 65 year old Russian guide. It was -22 Celsius. He lasted 20 seconds. After 5, I felt my eyes were going to pop. I was still rewarded with the dodgy but oddly good spirit that was in his flask.

Obligatory snacklesnap

Murmansk somehow has its share of fancy cars and restaurant(s?). It felt misplaced, but was a welcome change from stale biscuits and "drink for men".

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Yours

E.