Thank you for your kind words. I love to help folks the best I can.
To help with your planning to achieve the best weights for specific dates, google "sheep and goat ethnic calendar". There are several out there, I actually look at several and compare. The second thing to look for is trends at the sale barn you plan to take your butcher kids too. I'd recommend one that uses scales, sells per pound or CWT, and posts in the USDA market report. You can look at past reports to see what dates and weights typically bring the most return and back plan for birthing dates and conception dates.

I'm going to rabbit hole just a moment because I feel it's import to note. Gestation period for a goat is 151 days. Unless you have fence-teased your does with a buck, typically does (female goats) will not heat cycle until 16-21 days after the buck in rut has been placed in the breeding paddock. you'd be looking for 6-7 lb birth weights with a .45 ADG (average daily gain) for math and weight/date speculations

Ok, back on track. Now that we can project when we want the kids to be born to achieve the best weight for the best prices. For instance, you would not have October born kids looking to sell at the Easter market, they would be way too big and any sales would actually bring you less per pound, sometimes significantly. I have found an early February kidding will hit the weights for most of the significant holidays and meet our freezer requirements as well.

Using them for over grown areas and woods would be good, be sure to look into what plants are poisonous to goats before releasing them into an area. Contrary to popular belief, they can't eat everything and some things can cause death. When doing your research, be sure to look into their digestive systems and understand how they work. They are little breweries, the rumen requires a very specific balance for the bacteria to operate correctly.

The gentleman your wife spoke to is partially correct. Goats like to forage more than they like to graze. Given the choice, they will eat shoulder height and work up by standing on their back legs and then down. In tall grasses, same thing, they will start at the shoulder. The health issues he was talking about in internal parasite load. As the goats walk around eating, they spread their pellets everywhere. Part of the life cycle of most worms, is they are shed from the host animal and then have to re-enter a host animal. By doing this, typically the larval stage of the worm can crawl up to 6-8 inches on blades of grass, more commonly when dew is present, and wait to be re-ingested to complete the life cycle. A worm overload can kill goats and some breeds are more susceptible to internal parasites than others. Boer goat cannot tolerate worms at all, whereas Kikos are known for their parasite resistance.
You are probably asking a this point, "Can't I buy a wormer and treat the goats?" Unfortunately, people over-used most brands and now worms are more resistant to what is on the market. A local county extension agent or small ruminant veterinarian can tell what wormers work in your area and which ones do not. There are also other bacteria problems from eating close to the ground, but internal parasites would be the #1 issue.

There are a ton of good books out there, there are also some that look like they might be good books but are targeting the pet community and would have bad info for meat type goats. Check out the authors and their credentials/qualifications before your purchase.

Sorry this has turned into a book. Hope you can glean something from it.