A general assumption about the Japanese states that they pursue a high degree of perfection. According to the motto: "When we do something, we do it right." Evidence for this statement can be found among the masters of Sushi and the constructors of high-speed trains, that deserve their label. But can the Japanese even perfect the whiskey, the heritage of centuries-old Scottish traditions as well?
Just judging by the bottle, the Suntory distillery comes pretty close to perfection with their Hibiki 17: The bottle seems to hint at the design of a carafe as all the other Hibiki's as well. The 24 edges are not resemblant of 24 hours of pure enjoyment, but rather are a reference to the number of seasons according to the traditional Japanese lunar calendar. The label is made of hand-crafted paper and sums up the premium feel of its content with its brush stroke optics and the golden embossed "17". This bottle is too good, to carelessly dispose of it after the last drop.
It is not very evident, whether the Hibiki 17 years also contains Grain Whisky. While the Suntory website states that the whiskey contains "numerous pure single malt whiskeys aged in a variety of cask types, including Mizunara, a very rare Japanese oak“. With almost 190 USD per bottle, the Hibiki 17 years prices rank in stellar spheres . So it has to be good. Right? We will see or respectively taste in the Whiskey-Test.
Tasting of the Hibiki 17 years
How does it smell?
If you want to savor a Japanese whiskey and live up to its standard, you got to prepare a structure. You will learn this after ten minutes with the Hibiki 17 at the latest. My pen flies over the paper and I almost cannot keep up with writing down my impressions of this special whiskey. Let`s try it with some order:
The fruits: Initially I smell plums, some sherry, lemon peel, coconut, and pineapple. The Hibiki 17 has some strong tropical aromas, it resembles a sweet Pina Colada. With some additional air, you can also make out some raisins and Amarena cherry ice cream.
The age: Yes, this whiskey has some age and ripeness to it! It has a scent of parchment, floor wax, oak wood and smoked bacon. Dark chocolate, much cocoa, and chocolates round up the complex mixture. Temporarily, the Hibiki 17 even resembles an old rum with its soft and pleasant scent and this is exactly what makes him so likable.
The rest: The mild, creamy and soft aromas prevail within this blend. But I manage to make out the cinnamon, vanilla, and nuts too. And this surely is not even all you can find...
How does it taste?
The Hibiki 17 also positions itself on the verge of a sensation in the taste department. I taste fruit flavors I never tasted before in a whiskey. The whole range of tropical fruit starts to linger: Papaya, banana, pineapple and peach fill the tongue with sweetness and eclectic impressions. Some sweet plum joins in. The Hibiki 17 tastes ripe but tingles lightly on the tongue. The alcohol tickles and makes the whiskey seem light despite its genuine aromas. If you let it stand around for some time, those aromas come out stronger. Delicate bacon meets oak wood and leather. This Japanese has a lot to tell. The departure also ends up being complex and long, with a dry and cinder impression. The Hibiki 17 is an air artist despite its ripeness.
Macerating is nearly pointless
Of course, I tried to get out more of the Japanese with some drops of water. But unfortunately, you bite on granite trying this with the Hibiki 17. Or rather on cupcakes, custard, and many soft, sweet, almost buttery aromas. But those impressions do not really complement this piece of art: It comes out with a lot of strength, almost seems staggering, with a lot of energy. The fruit almost is too intensive, too ripe and fermented. I liked this whiskey much better when it was undiluted.
Stay tuned for tomorrow's post where I will talk about the Hibiki 21 experience.